在(zai)山西,人們(men)壽誕生辰(chen),聚友團圓時,常(chang)常(chang)要吃這種面(mian),以示長壽和喜慶。龍須面(mian)配料精細,制作講究,其制作方法過(guo)去曾被(bei)認為是絕(jue)招(zhao),秘而不傳。龍須拉面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)團被(bei)和勻后(hou)(hou),抻(chen)開(kai),卷起(qi),再抻(chen)開(kai),再卷起(qi),如此(ci)數扣之后(hou)(hou),師(shi)傅們(men)將拉好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)放在(zai)撒(sa)滿(man)面(mian)粉的(de)(de)(de)幾案(an)上(shang)抖開(kai),而后(hou)(hou)兩(liang)手像搭毛(mao)線般地將面(mian)抻(chen)開(kai)并(bing)抖動(dong)著。整個(ge)景象就(jiu)如瀑(pu)布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下(xia)一(yi)般,蔚(yu)為壯觀。片刻之后(hou)(hou)走上(shang)前去,看到拉好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)已(yi)如絲般纖細,這已(yi)是標準的(de)(de)(de)龍須面(mian)了。
先用面(mian)水5∶3的(de)比例和好(hao)面(mian),然(ran)后在上(shang)面(mian)抹(mo)點香油醒著(zhu),將醒好(hao)的(de)面(mian)放在案板(ban)上(shang),揉勻(yun)或搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條,雙手提兩(liang)端稍晃,再搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條狀,搟(xian)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)片(pian)形,略醒后用刀(dao)橫切成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小手指粗(cu)的(de)長(chang)條,撒勻(yun)面(mian)粉(fen)或抹(mo)勻(yun)香油,逐根(gen)或幾(ji)根(gen)并拉(la),拉(la)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)細條投入沸水鍋內,煮熟配上(shang)鹵即成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。
龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)源頭(tou)是(shi)始于唐(tang)(tang)朝的(de)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐(tang)(tang)書·王皇后(hou)傳》記有(you)“陛下獨不(bu)(bu)念(nian)阿忠脫紫半臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)耶”。這(zhe)種(zhong)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing),已可(ke)“舉箸食(shi)”(劉禹(yu)錫《贈進士張盥》),是(shi)和(he)軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)刀切條,將(jiang)(jiang)條拉(la)(la)(la)細、拉(la)(la)(la)長(chang)后(hou)落(luo)鍋煮熟食(shi)用(yong),民間至(zhi)今(jin)保留此(ci)法,稱之(zhi)為小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇后(hou)為李隆基(ji)做生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)故事,發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)在李隆基(ji)作(zuo)潞州別駕(jia)的(de)時(shi)候,可(ke)見(jian)唐(tang)(tang)代至(zhi)少(shao)太原(yuan)(yuan)、長(chang)治等山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)地區已將(jiang)(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)長(chang)壽(shou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)和(he)食(shi)用(yong)了。后(hou)來,這(zhe)一(yi)(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝(yi)隨著太原(yuan)(yuan)玄(xuan)中寺的(de)凈土(tu)宗東傳日(ri)本(ben),形成(cheng)日(ri)本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術的(de)基(ji)礎。到了宋(song)代,趙光義(yi)鏟(chan)平晉陽西(xi)(xi)(xi)北系舟山(shan)(shan)(shan),意(yi)(yi)欲拔掉“龍(long)角”。第二年太原(yuan)(yuan)百姓(xing)將(jiang)(jiang)二月初的(de)中和(he)節改為“龍(long)頭(tou)節”,并固定在二月初二以作(zuo)紀念(nian)。此(ci)日(ri),百姓(xing)多吃(chi)(chi)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意(yi)(yi)思是(shi)你(ni)拔我(wo)“龍(long)角”,我(wo)挑(tiao)你(ni)“龍(long)筋”、吃(chi)(chi)你(ni)“龍(long)須(xu)”,以示憤恨。自此(ci),拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被稱為龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭堅(jian)曾作(zuo)詩(shi)“湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)一(yi)(yi)杯銀絲(si)亂,牽絲(si)如縷玉簪橫”。元代時(shi),馬可(ke)波羅三訪太原(yuan)(yuan),將(jiang)(jiang)這(zhe)種(zhong)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術帶(dai)回(hui)意(yi)(yi)大(da)利(li),形成(cheng)影響西(xi)(xi)(xi)方(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)技(ji)術和(he)飲食(shi)文化的(de)意(yi)(yi)大(da)利(li)通心(xin)粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發(fa)展成(cheng)大(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫不(bu)(bu)可(ke)考,但明人宋(song)詡《宋(song)氏(shi)養生(sheng)(sheng)部》記載:“用(yong)少(shao)鹽入(ru)水和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)(yi)斤為率(lv)。既勻,沃香油少(shao)許……漸以兩手纏絡于直指、將(jiang)(jiang)指、無名指之(zhi)間,為細條,先作(zuo)沸湯(tang),隨拉(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)見(jian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)明代時(shi)已有(you)大(da)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)技(ji)術。清道光年間,山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)(shan)(shan)縣馬金(jin)定兄(xiong)弟,千里迢迢去(qu)陜(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)(shan)(shan)做掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意(yi)(yi),字號“順天(tian)成(cheng)”,直到今(jin)天(tian),岐山(shan)(shan)(shan)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)這(zhe)個(ge)老字號。這(zhe)種(zhong)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初就是(shi)將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)好后(hou),掛在線上曬干銷售,是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為半成(cheng)品(pin)銷售的(de)典范(fan)。
清(qing)朝末(mo)年,拉(la)面(mian)已成為(wei)山、陜面(mian)食制作的(de)成熟技(ji)術。清(qing)末(mo)薛寶辰著的(de)《素食說(shuo)略》中說(shuo),在山、陜流行(xing)一(yi)種“楨(zhen)條面(mian)”:“以(yi)水(shui)和(he)面(mian),入(ru)鹽(yan)、清(qing)油揉勻,覆以(yi)濕(shi)布,俟(si)其(qi)軟和(he),扯開細煮之,名為(wei)楨(zhen)條面(mian)。做法以(yi)山西(xi)太原、平定州(zhou)、陜西(xi)朝邑、同州(zhou)為(wei)最。”這種楨(zhen)條面(mian),即山西(xi)拉(la)面(mian),也稱龍(long)須面(mian),在清(qing)代(dai)還進入(ru)宮廷。《清(qing)稗類(lei)鈔》、《中國歷(li)代(dai)御膳大(da)觀》中記,內廷大(da)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)之一(yi)、清(qing)朝帝王的(de)壽(shou)誕(dan)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)——萬(wan)壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan),以(yi)及滿(man)漢全(quan)席第一(yi)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)的(de)蒙古親(qin)藩宴(yan)(yan)(yan),都(dou)以(yi)龍(long)須面(mian)作為(wei)御宴(yan)(yan)(yan)的(de)重要膳食。
“千招易(yi)學(xue),一竅(qiao)難(nan)得(de)”。拉(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作技(ji)(ji)(ji)術解放前曾被認為(wei)是“絕招”,秘(mi)而(er)不傳。解放后(hou),逐(zhu)漸在(zai)社會(hui)(hui)上得(de)以公開,成為(wei)山(shan)西面(mian)(mian)案的(de)(de)基(ji)本功,受(shou)到山(shan)西飲食界的(de)(de)重視,并不斷(duan)在(zai)實(shi)踐探索中(zhong)細分為(wei)小拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(一根面(mian)(mian))、大拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(6至8扣(kou))、龍(long)須(xu)(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(10扣(kou)以上),空心拉(la)面(mian)(mian)等。現在(zai),龍(long)須(xu)(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)除食用之外(wai),還作為(wei)一種表(biao)演(yan)藝(yi)術,拉(la)至14扣(kou)時,共計28924根,相連長達(da)25公里。全晉(jin)會(hui)(hui)館的(de)(de)蒙眼拉(la)面(mian)(mian),還曾獲得(de)全國(guo)廚藝(yi)絕技(ji)(ji)(ji)超(chao)群(qun)獎,多次應邀赴日本、新加坡、臺(tai)灣等國(guo)家(jia)和(he)(he)(he)地區表(biao)演(yan)。2008年初,全晉(jin)會(hui)(hui)館作為(wei)傳承單(dan)位的(de)(de)龍(long)須(xu)(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian),被列入第二批(pi)國(guo)家(jia)級(ji)非物質文(wen)化遺(yi)產保護名錄(lu),受(shou)到了國(guo)家(jia)的(de)(de)高度重視。龍(long)須(xu)(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作,這一山(shan)西面(mian)(mian)食中(zhong)技(ji)(ji)(ji)術性強(qiang)的(de)(de)特色(se)手(shou)工(gong)技(ji)(ji)(ji)藝(yi)和(he)(he)(he)表(biao)演(yan)藝(yi)術,將(jiang)在(zai)新時代(dai)煥發出(chu)傳承文(wen)脈、走向和(he)(he)(he)諧、造(zao)福社會(hui)(hui)的(de)(de)無比絢麗奪目的(de)(de)光彩。