五仙觀在歷(li)史(shi)(shi)上(shang)屢建屢廢,現址亦經歷(li)多次變(bian)遷(qian)(qian)(qian)。據有關史(shi)(shi)籍記(ji)載:北宋時廣(guang)州就建有祀奉五仙人的寺院;南(nan)宋嘉定年(nian)(nian)間(1208~1224年(nian)(nian))寺觀遷(qian)(qian)(qian)至西湖(hu)玉液池畔(pan),即今西湖(hu)路附(fu)近(jin),稱奉真(zhen)觀;南(nan)宋末年(nian)(nian)又遷(qian)(qian)(qian)至今廣(guang)仁路;明洪武元年(nian)(nian)(1368年(nian)(nian))五仙觀毀于一場大火(huo);直至洪武十年(nian)(nian)(1377年(nian)(nian)),最后遷(qian)(qian)(qian)建于現址惠(hui)福西路坡山巷(xiang),主持修建者是廣(guang)東行省布(bu)政(zheng)使趙嗣堅。
明清時(shi)期,五仙觀規模相當宏大壯(zhuang)麗(li),殿(dian)(dian)堂多達十數處。原有(you)(you)照壁、牌(pai)(pai)坊、山門(men)、中殿(dian)(dian)、后殿(dian)(dian),兩側(ce)還(huan)有(you)(you)東西齋(zhai)(zhai)、三元殿(dian)(dian)、廊廡(wu)等。照壁、牌(pai)(pai)坊、中殿(dian)(dian)、三元殿(dian)(dian)和廊廡(wu)已(yi)蕩然無存,供游(you)人參觀的只有(you)(you)儀門(men)、后殿(dian)(dian)、東齋(zhai)(zhai)、西齋(zhai)(zhai)和“嶺南(nan)第一樓”等部分舊建筑。
五(wu)仙觀的(de)儀(yi)門(men)面闊三間(jian)進深二間(jian),綠琉璃瓦歇(xie)山(shan)頂,青磚石(shi)腳。石(shi)門(men)額上“五(wu)仙古觀”大字是(shi)清同治十(shi)年 (1871年)兩(liang)廣總督瑞(rui)麟手書。儀(yi)門(men)還保存有(you)一對用漱珠崗火(huo)山(shan)巖刻制的(de)石(shi)麒麟,這是(shi)國內(nei)十(shi)分罕見(jian)的(de)珍(zhen)貴文物。
儀門東邊原惠福(fu)西路小學內有(you)(you)環砌(qi)跨欄(lan)水池,內有(you)(you)十塊長寬約4米的(de)天然紅(hong)砂巖石(shi)(shi),這是一塊罕見(jian)的(de)原生石(shi)(shi),即舊羊城八景“穗石(shi)(shi)洞天”中的(de)“穗石(shi)(shi)”。近前仔細觀看,“仙人拇(mu)跡”在石(shi)(shi)面凹處(chu),形似(si)大足印。
進儀門(men)后是(shi)中(zhong)殿遺址,之后才是(shi)后殿。后殿面闊(kuo)三間(jian)長(chang)12米,進深(shen)三間(jian)寬10米,殿高7米,是(shi)重(zhong)檐歇山頂,上蓋(gai)綠琉璃瓦。正(zheng)脊兩(liang)端為回紋飾(shi).中(zhong)間(jian)為兩(liang)條相向倒(dao)立鰲自,正(zheng)中(zhong)脊剎(cha)是(shi)寶物飾(shi)。殿的(de)正(zheng)桁上刻有“大(da)明(ming)嘉靖十六年十一(yi)月拾貳”等字。內檐施6鋪作3抄斗拱,玲攏精(jing)巧,四壁作間(jian)隔用,原(yuan)為方(fang)格門(men)窗,靈巧通(tong)透。整座后殿具有廣東明(ming)代(dai)古建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)的(de)特色,也(ye)是(shi)廣州(zhou)現存最完整的(de)明(ming)代(dai)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)。
“五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)觀”解(jie)放前在(zai)惠福西路內街,是廣(guang)州(zhou)(zhou)建城2000年(nian)的歷史標志,傳說遠古年(nian)代有五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)人騎著五(wu)(wu)色羊(yang),五(wu)(wu)羊(yang)銜著谷(gu)穗降臨廣(guang)州(zhou)(zhou)海珠廣(guang)場原(yuan)(yuan)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)門電廠(chang)附近(電廠(chang)原(yuan)(yuan)址是五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)街)。五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)喜降臨,令(ling)廣(guang)州(zhou)(zhou)風(feng)調(diao)雨順(shun),五(wu)(wu)谷(gu)豐登(deng),國泰(tai)民安。為紀念(nian)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)福祉,稱廣(guang)州(zhou)(zhou)為“羊(yang)城”。
“五仙觀(guan)”在公元265年(nian)(nian)(nian)兩(liang)晉時,是(shi)珠江的“坡山古(gu)渡頭” 江面有1500米(mi),如今滄海(hai)變桑(sang)田(tian),明代曾以“穗石洞天(tian)”列入羊城八景(jing)。清末(mo)民(min)初廣州(zhou)拆(chai)(chai)城墻擴馬路,“五仙觀(guan)”是(shi)羊城福祉,命名“惠(hui)福路”,2000年(nian)(nian)(nian)開始“五仙觀(guan)”周邊近萬平方米(mi)民(min)居(ju)被(bei)清拆(chai)(chai),2004年(nian)(nian)(nian)五仙觀(guan)還(huan)原(yuan)本來面目。
惠(hui)福西路(lu)(lu)靠近(jin)解放路(lu)(lu)一段是(shi)聞名省、港(gang)、澳燈籠(long)街(jie)(jie)。紙扎店林立(li),制(zhi)作燈色、人物、動物、古(gu)屋惟妙惟肖,又是(shi)搭牌樓藝人(棚工)云(yun)集地方。解放后,因破除迷(mi)信(xin),燈籠(long)街(jie)(jie)消失,藝人轉業。
據越秀區(qu)政府規劃,日后五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)景(jing)區(qu)以五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)觀(guan)和(he)(he)嶺(ling)南(nan)第(di)一樓(lou)為中(zhong)心,結合廣場建(jian)設(she)和(he)(he)周邊環境的整(zheng)治,開(kai)展民(min)間曲(qu)藝(yi)演出,風(feng)俗展示。規劃還擬打造三(san)處(chu)民(min)居景(jing)區(qu):甜(tian)水(shui)巷(xiang)(xiang)、金(jin)城(cheng)巷(xiang)(xiang)、怡樂里,將通(tong)過成片的特色建(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)的整(zheng)治和(he)(he)開(kai)發,展現地方傳統(tong)(tong)建(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)體(ti)的獨特風(feng)情(qing)。甜(tian)水(shui)巷(xiang)(xiang)內(nei)多為廣州傳統(tong)(tong)的竹筒(tong)屋,內(nei)通(tong)風(feng)、采(cai)光、排(pai)水(shui)主要(yao)靠(kao)天井(jing),從前(qian)至后,以天井(jing)隔成多個房(fang)間,內(nei)多建(jian)閣樓(lou);金(jin)城(cheng)巷(xiang)(xiang)的西式民(min)居,是(shi)(shi)20世紀20-30年代有西洋建(jian)筑(zhu)風(feng)格的二(er)三(san)層建(jian)筑(zhu),材料是(shi)(shi)近(jin)代盛行的紅磚為主的樓(lou)房(fang);怡樂里的建(jian)筑(zhu)多是(shi)(shi)西洋建(jian)筑(zhu)古典風(feng)格,也(ye)有部(bu)分采(cai)用(yong)中(zhong)國傳統(tong)(tong)形式的二(er)三(san)層樓(lou)房(fang),前(qian)有庭園。
后殿面闊三間12.4米、進深三間10米、高8米,綠琉璃瓦重(zhong)檐歇山頂,脊飾為琉璃龍紋和琉璃鰲魚寶(bao)珠。內槽為八架(jia)(jia)椽(chuan),施六鋪作三抄(chao)斗(dou)拱(gong),外檐施乳栿出兩跳插(cha)拱(gong)承托(tuo)挑檐桁(heng),梭形柱,有(you)(you)升(sheng)起(qi)、側(ce)腳(jiao),平梁、四椽(chuan)栿造(zao)成月(yue)梁,駝(tuo)峰、叉手(shou)(shou)、托(tuo)腳(jiao)等風格簡(jian)(jian)潔(jie),保留了(le)明(ming)代(dai)早期的(de)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑手(shou)(shou)法。脊榑底(di)部有(you)(you)“時大明(ming)嘉靖十六年龍集(ji)丁(ding)酉十一(yi)月(yue)二十一(yi)日(ri)丙(bing)申吉旦(dan)建(jian)(jian)(jian)”等字。斗(dou)拱(gong)用材(cai)略(lve)細(xi),材(cai)高18厘米、厚8厘米,斗(dou)欹有(you)(you)幽頁,裝修簡(jian)(jian)樸;殿立面造(zao)型比例(li)適(shi)度,既保留了(le)明(ming)代(dai)早期建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑風格,又(you)具有(you)(you)地方特色,是廣州市保存較好的(de)明(ming)代(dai)木構(gou)架(jia)(jia)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑。
后殿東(dong)側的(de)原(yuan)生紅砂巖石上,有一腳印狀凹穴,旁有“仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)拇跡(ji)”石匾。這是(shi)遠古(gu)時代(dai)(dai)(dai)珠江洪水期的(de)流水沖(chong)蝕痕跡(ji),民間(jian)傳說作仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)留下的(de)腳印。晉代(dai)(dai)(dai)這里(li)有“坡(po)山(shan)古(gu)渡”之(zhi)稱。明(ming)、清兩代(dai)(dai)(dai)五(wu)仙(xian)(xian)觀先后以“穗石洞天(tian)”和“五(wu)仙(xian)(xian)霞洞”列為羊城八(ba)景之(zhi)一。1989年6月廣東(dong)省(sheng)政府公布為省(sheng)級文物(wu)保護單(dan)位。五(wu)仙(xian)(xian)觀內(nei)現保存有宋至(zhi)清的(de)碑刻14方及石麒麟1對
后(hou)還有(you)一座(zuo)(zuo)樓(lou)(lou)—嶺南第(di)一樓(lou)(lou),這是一座(zuo)(zuo)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)式的(de)古建(jian)(jian)筑物。明洪(hong)武七年(nian)(1374年(nian))行省參政(zheng)知事(shi)汪(wang)廣洋建(jian)(jian)造(zao)此樓(lou)(lou),它比鎮海樓(lou)(lou)還要早7年(nian)建(jian)(jian)造(zao)。其(qi)樓(lou)(lou)基用紅砂石砌筑,樓(lou)(lou)高7米(mi),中(zhong)(zhong)通往(wang)來(lai),作城(cheng)(cheng)門狀,上(shang)(shang)建(jian)(jian)棟宇巨(ju)檐,構成(cheng)一座(zuo)(zuo)軒敞的(de)樓(lou)(lou)臺(tai),顯得莊嚴(yan)雄(xiong)偉、樸素大(da)(da)方。此樓(lou)(lou)與五層樓(lou)(lou)堪稱為明代(dai)建(jian)(jian)筑的(de)“雙璧”。 嶺南第(di)一樓(lou)(lou)建(jian)(jian)成(cheng)后(hou)的(de)第(di)四年(nian),還鑄成(cheng)一口大(da)(da)鐘(zhong)(zhong),懸掛樓(lou)(lou)上(shang)(shang)。大(da)(da)鐘(zhong)(zhong)高3米(mi)多,口徑2米(mi)多,厚(hou)3寸,重(zhong)5噸(dun),是廣東最大(da)(da)的(de)鐵鐘(zhong)(zhong)。這口大(da)(da)鐘(zhong)(zhong)撞(zhuang)擊起來(lai),聲(sheng)音很響,“扣之聲(sheng)聞(wen)十里(li)”。這大(da)(da)鐘(zhong)(zhong)是作為遇火警(jing)等非常事(shi)故(gu)時召人(ren)救火用的(de),無事(shi)禁止撞(zhuang)擊;又有(you)此鐘(zhong)(zhong)敲響,城(cheng)(cheng)中(zhong)(zhong)便瘟(wen)疫(yi)大(da)(da)作之說—故(gu)名“禁鐘(zhong)(zhong)”。該樓(lou)(lou)也被(bei)稱之為禁鐘(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)。禁鐘(zhong)(zhong)之重(zhong),令(ling)人(ren)驚(jing)異。然更(geng)令(ling)人(ren)驚(jing)異的(de)卻是此鐘(zhong)(zhong)只用一根葛藤懸掛。
傳說(shuo)這藤(teng)與呂(lv)洞賓有關:
古代有一(yi)大官(guan)乘(cheng)轎(jiao)(jiao)路過此地時,扎(zha)(zha)轎(jiao)(jiao)杠的繩索斷了,便吩(fen)咐轎(jiao)(jiao)夫在(zai)半時辰內找(zhao)到(dao)繩子扎(zha)(zha)好(hao)轎(jiao)(jiao)杠。轎(jiao)(jiao)夫正焦急找(zhao)著,忽見(jian)路旁(pang)走來一(yi)位老(lao)(lao)人(ren)。老(lao)(lao)人(ren)指著山(shan)巖上(shang)的一(yi)條葛(ge)藤說:“可用那藤。”轎(jiao)(jiao)夫見(jian)藤又(you)(you)細又(you)(you)短,以為老(lao)(lao)人(ren)要(yao)耍(shua)弄他(ta)。突然老(lao)(lao)人(ren)不(bu)見(jian)了,轎(jiao)(jiao)夫才知道遇著仙人(ren),連忙(mang)扯下(xia)葛(ge)藤去扎(zha)(zha)轎(jiao)(jiao)。也真奇怪,葛(ge)藤越扎(zha)(zha)越長,直到(dao)轎(jiao)(jiao)杠扎(zha)(zha)得(de)結(jie)結(jie)實(shi)實(shi)才用完(wan)。到(dao)了驛站(zhan),轎(jiao)(jiao)夫仔(zi)細察看,見(jian)藤尾刻有“呂(lv)洞(dong)賓”三個字,這才醒(xing)悟到(dao)那是(shi)呂(lv)洞(dong)賓所賜的仙藤。
后(hou)來(lai)坡(po)山建五(wu)仙觀、蓋大鐘(zhong)樓,要找繩索吊(diao)大鐘(zhong)。轎夫便把仙藤獻(xian)出,細小的葛藤把數千公斤的銅鐘(zhong)吊(diao)得穩(wen)穩(wen)當(dang)當(dang)的。
故事(shi)終(zhong)歸是故事(shi),傳說也不一定曾發(fa)生過,可一根葛藤(teng)吊起那沉重的大(da)鐘是不爭的事(shi)實(shi)。
再說那口(kou)大銅鐘(zhong)(zhong)、鐘(zhong)(zhong)體(ti)鑄(zhu)銘篆文,是(shi)洪武十一年(1378年)所鑄(zhu)。鐘(zhong)(zhong)口(kou)之下(xia)正對著樓(lou)基中心(xin)的(de)方形(xing)大井口(kou),能產生共鳴。一敲鐘(zhong)(zhong),聲(sheng)自券形(xing)門洞傳出,鐘(zhong)(zhong)鳴遠播,聲(sheng)聞十里。傳說此鐘(zhong)(zhong)只有遇著火警(jing)之類災(zai)難時才撞擊鳴鐘(zhong)(zhong),無(wu)事禁止撞鐘(zhong)(zhong),故又稱之為“禁鐘(zhong)(zhong)”,該樓(lou)又叫做“禁鐘(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)”。
五仙觀(guan)牌坊在六十年代被毀(hui),2005年開始計劃原(yuan)址復原(yuan)牌坊,復原(yuan)設(she)計由華南理工大學程建(jian)軍教授和石(shi)拓承擔。復原(yuan)采(cai)用了原(yuan)有(you)臺基、夾桿石(shi)、柱(zhu)礎等構件(jian)。復原(yuan)牌坊完全(quan)按照(zhao)傳統樣式,面(mian)闊三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),進深二(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),用十二(er)柱(zhu),有(you)側(ce)角、升起。心(xin)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)為(wei)重檐(yan),次間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)為(wei)單檐(yan),均為(wei)廡殿式,屋脊(ji)為(wei)龍舟脊(ji),均飾卷草紋,并以廣府(fu)典型的水浪造型收(shou)尾,正脊(ji)上飾寶珠、鰲魚。
交通:乘(cheng)3、6、66、74、82、124、217、227、541路(lu)公共汽車在惠(hui)福(fu)西(xi)路(lu)站下可達
傳說(shuo)周夷(yi)王(wang)八(ba)年(公元前887年),廣(guang)州(zhou)曾一度出(chu)(chu)現(xian)連年災(zai)荒,田野荒蕪(wu),農(nong)業失(shi)收,人(ren)民不(bu)得溫飽。一天,南海的天空忽(hu)然傳來(lai)(lai)一陣悠揚的音樂(le),并出(chu)(chu)現(xian)五朵彩(cai)(cai)色祥云,上(shang)有五位仙(xian)人(ren),身穿(chuan)五色彩(cai)(cai)衣,分別騎著不(bu)同毛色的山(shan)羊(yang),羊(yang)口銜(xian)著一莖六出(chu)(chu)的優良(liang)稻穗,降臨楚庭。仙(xian)人(ren)把稻穗給了廣(guang)州(zhou)人(ren),并祝(zhu)愿(yuan)此(ci)(ci)處永無饑荒。祝(zhu)罷仙(xian)人(ren)騰空飛逝,五只仙(xian)羊(yang)化為石頭留在(zai)廣(guang)州(zhou)山(shan)坡。從此(ci)(ci),廣(guang)州(zhou)便成了嶺南最富庶的地方。這就(jiu)是廣(guang)州(zhou)有“五羊(yang)城”、“羊(yang)城”、“穗城”名稱的由來(lai)(lai)。
五(wu)仙降臨的情(qing)形差不(bu)多,但(dan)時(shi)間(jian)是南海人(ren)高(gao)固為楚(chu)威王相時(shi),即戰國周(zhou)顯王時(shi)期。
晉朝時,吳修(xiu)(xiu)為廣州(zhou)刺史,還(huan)未到任,有五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)騎五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)色(se)羊(yang),背(bei)著(zhu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)谷(gu)來到廣州(zhou)州(zhou)治的廳堂上。吳修(xiu)(xiu)于是在(zai)(zai)廳堂上繪五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)像(xiang)以(yi)示祥瑞紀(ji)念(nian),并且稱廣州(zhou)為“五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)城(cheng)”。廣州(zhou)惠(hui)福西路五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)觀據說就是五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)人(ren)降臨之地,廣州(zhou)人(ren)為了紀(ji)念(nian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)人(ren),在(zai)(zai)那兒專門修(xiu)(xiu)了五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)觀,在(zai)(zai)大殿(dian)內還(huan)有五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)和五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)羊(yang)的塑像(xiang)。廣州(zhou)人(ren)民為了感激五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)位仙(xian)(xian)人(ren),在(zai)(zai)他們當年降臨的地方修(xiu)(xiu)建了一座五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)觀以(yi)示紀(ji)念(nian)。觀中有五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)雕像(xiang),伴以(yi)五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)羊(yang)石像(xiang),五(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)又被稱之為谷(gu)神(shen)。
“五仙騎羊贈稻穗”是(shi)一個十分美好的故事,根據這故事而(er)建寺(si)觀的歷史(shi)由(you)來(lai)已久。
漢(han)晉時代(dai)(dai),廣(guang)(guang)(guang)州(zhou)一(yi)地(di)的(de)原(yuan)始神仙(xian)(xian)(xian)方(fang)術信仰(yang)遺存最具(ju)代(dai)(dai)表的(de)是(shi)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)觀(guan),據(ju)《宋張(zhang)勵五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)觀(guan)記》轉(zhuan)引(yin)《南務嶺表記》及《圖經(jing)》所(suo)(suo)載,漢(han)晉時,“初有(you)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)人皆手(shou)持(chi)谷穗,一(yi)莖(jing)六(liu)出,乘五(wu)(wu)羊而(er)至(zhi),仙(xian)(xian)(xian)人之(zhi)服與羊各異,色如(ru)五(wu)(wu)方(fang),既遺穗與廣(guang)(guang)(guang)人,仙(xian)(xian)(xian)忽飛(fei)升(sheng)以(yi)去,羊留(liu)化為(wei)石。廣(guang)(guang)(guang)人因即其地(di)為(wei)祠祀之(zhi)。”這即是(shi)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)觀(guan)前身。廣(guang)(guang)(guang)州(zhou)別稱(cheng)羊城、穗城亦源于此。宋代(dai)(dai)以(yi)前,觀(guan)內已(yi)有(you)道士(shi)在此修行,程師孟詩(shi)云:欲舉(ju)輕舟印碧虛(xu),善鄰猶得道流居。蔣之(zhi)奇詩(shi)云:州(zhou)宅之(zhi)西敞華堂,我來跪(gui)拜焚寶香。堂中塑像(xiang)何所(suo)(suo)見,乃有(you)五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)乘五(wu)(wu)羊。五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)觀(guan)歷(li)代(dai)(dai)觀(guan)址曾多(duo)次遷建,宋代(dai)(dai)在十(shi)賢(xian)坊(今廣(guang)(guang)(guang)東省財政(zheng)(zheng)廳(ting)(ting)一(yi)帶(dai)),南宋后(hou)期至(zhi)元(yuan)代(dai)(dai)在古西湖畔(今教育路一(yi)帶(dai))。明(ming)洪(hong)武十(shi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1377年(nian)(nian)(nian)),原(yuan)址改為(wei)廣(guang)(guang)(guang)豐(feng)庫(ku),觀(guan)遷至(zhi)坡山現(xian)址(今惠福西路),另塑五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)像(xiang)。明(ming)成(cheng)化五(wu)(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1469年(nian)(nian)(nian))和清(qing)雍正元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1723年(nian)(nian)(nian))均進行重修。民國十(shi)二年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1923年(nian)(nian)(nian))占地(di)面積仍有(you)4600多(duo)平方(fang)米。是(shi)年(nian)(nian)(nian),廣(guang)(guang)(guang)州(zhou)市(shi)政(zheng)(zheng)廳(ting)(ting)為(wei)籌備軍(jun)餉,拍賣五(wu)(wu)仙(xian)(xian)(xian)觀(guan),中山同鄉會(hui)買下會(hui)址,遣散觀(guan)內道士(shi)。今為(wei)廣(guang)(guang)(guang)州(zhou)市(shi)文物保護單(dan)位。