簡介
石頭(tou)城(cheng)被稱為(wei)石城(cheng),廣義(yi)上(shang)它是(shi)如今南京(jing)的(de)(de)別稱,狹(xia)義(yi)上(shang)它是(shi)指南京(jing)老城(cheng)城(cheng)西的(de)(de)石頭(tou)山石頭(tou)城(cheng)。孫權在石頭(tou)山修建了石頭(tou)城(cheng),用它作(zuo)為(wei)保護(hu)東(dong)吳(wu)京(jing)師建業的(de)(de)資本(ben);預備(bei)軍事(shi)石材,石材基地多建造了烽火臺,在軍事(shi)上(shang),用來立(li)即發(fa)出報警信號。后(hou)來,金將軍王俊(jun)率海軍進攻東(dong)吳(wu),東(dong)吳(wu)家連鎖橫江塊,晉軍斷鏈。導致石頭(tou)城(cheng)失(shi)守(shou),不(bu)得人心的(de)(de)國王孫皓趕(gan)緊投(tou)降。劉禹錫(xi)有詩(shi)詠(yong)和事(shi):“王濬樓(lou)船下益州,金陵王氣黯(an)然收。”
后來(lai),長江(jiang)已(yi)逐漸西(xi)遷(qian),并(bing)在石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)河流泥(ni)沙的(de)(de)(de)沉(chen)積,變得平坦(tan)。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)不(bu)再是這么危險。朱園建設天(tian)(tian)府石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)市(shi)為(wei)天(tian)(tian)府市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)部(bu)(bu)分(fen)。石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)山如(ru)今是涼爽的(de)(de)(de)山區。這是在西(xi)方的(de)(de)(de)河,是一(yi)條河天(tian)(tian)然(ran)石(shi)(shi)(shi)材的(de)(de)(de)影響(xiang)。建造(zao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng),天(tian)(tian)然(ran)石(shi)(shi)(shi)材是城(cheng)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)墻的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)部(bu)(bu)分(fen)。
歷史沿革
石頭(tou)(tou)城全長(chang)約3000米 ,筑于楚(chu)威王(wang)七年(nian)(前333年(nian))。東(dong)漢建安(an)十六(liu)年(nian)(211年(nian)),吳國孫權遷(qian)至秣陵(今(jin)南(nan)京),在石頭(tou)(tou)山金陵邑原址(zhi)筑城,取名石頭(tou)(tou)。扼守長(chang)江險要,為兵家(jia)必爭之地,有石城虎(hu)踞之稱。
在南京(jing)的清涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)西麓(lu),自虎踞關龍(long)蟠(pan)里石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)門到草場門,可以看到城(cheng)墻逶迤雄峙,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)崖(ya)聳立,這就是依山(shan)(shan)(shan)而筑的石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)。同治《上江兩縣志.山(shan)(shan)(shan)考(kao)》載:“自江北以來,山(shan)(shan)(shan)皆無石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),至此山(shan)(shan)(shan)始有石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),故(gu)名。”《建(jian)康(kang)志》也(ye)說:“山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有城(cheng),又(you)名曰石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。”這里所說的“城(cheng)”,也(ye)就是石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭城(cheng)。
關于石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)由來,要追溯到兩千(qian)多年(nian)前(qian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)戰(zhan)國(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi)代。據(ju)史書記載,周顯王(wang)三(san)十(shi)六年(nian)(公元前(qian)333年(nian)),楚國(guo)(guo)(都(dou)(dou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郢(ying),即今(jin)(jin)湖(hu)北江(jiang)(jiang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling))滅(mie)了(le)(le)(le)越國(guo)(guo)(都(dou)(dou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)吳,即今(jin)(jin)蘇州),楚威(wei)王(wang)設(she)置(zhi)金陵(ling)(ling)(ling)邑(yi),并在(zai)今(jin)(jin)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上筑(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。秦始皇二(er)十(shi)四年(nian)(公元前(qian)223年(nian)),楚國(guo)(guo)滅(mie)亡,秦改(gai)金陵(ling)(ling)(ling)邑(yi)為(wei)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)縣。相傳三(san)國(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi),諸(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)葛(ge)亮(liang)在(zai)赤壁之戰(zhan)前(qian)夕,出使東(dong)吳,與孫(sun)權(quan)共(gong)商破曹(cao)大計(ji)。據(ju)說,諸(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)葛(ge)亮(liang)途經秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)縣時(shi)(shi),特地(di)(di)(di)騎馬到石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)觀察山(shan)(shan)(shan)川形勢(shi)。他(ta)看(kan)到以(yi)(yi)鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)首(shou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)群山(shan)(shan)(shan),像蒼龍(long)一(yi)般蜿蜒蟠(pan)伏于東(dong)南(nan)(nan),而(er)以(yi)(yi)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)終點的(de)(de)(de)(de)西(xi)部諸(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又像猛虎似地(di)(di)(di)雄踞在(zai)大江(jiang)(jiang)之濱,于是發(fa)(fa)出了(le)(le)(le)“鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍(long)蟠(pan),石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)虎踞,真乃帝王(wang)之宅也(ye)(ye)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)贊(zan)嘆,并向孫(sun)權(quan)建(jian)議遷都(dou)(dou)秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)。 孫(sun)權(quan)在(zai)赤壁之戰(zhan)后,遷移到秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)(今(jin)(jin)南(nan)(nan)京(jing)),并改(gai)稱秣(mo)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)為(wei)建(jian)業。第(di)二(er)年(nian)就(jiu)在(zai)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)原有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基上修(xiu)建(jian)了(le)(le)(le)著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當(dang)時(shi)(shi)長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)就(jiu)從清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)流過(guo),因而(er)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)地(di)(di)(di)位十(shi)分突出,孫(sun)吳也(ye)(ye)一(yi)直將(jiang)此處(chu)(chu)作為(wei)最(zui)主要的(de)(de)(de)(de)水軍(jun)基地(di)(di)(di)。此后數百(bai)年(nian)間,這(zhe)里(li)成為(wei)戰(zhan)守的(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)重鎮,南(nan)(nan)北戰(zhan)爭(zheng),往(wang)往(wang)以(yi)(yi)奪(duo)取(qu)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)決定勝負。 石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)(yi)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)坡天然峭(qiao)壁為(wei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基,環山(shan)(shan)(shan)筑(zhu)造,周長(chang)(chang)“七里(li)一(yi)百(bai)步”,相當(dang)于如今(jin)(jin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)六里(li)左右。北緣大江(jiang)(jiang),南(nan)(nan)抵秦淮河口,南(nan)(nan)開(kai)二(er)門,東(dong)開(kai)一(yi)門,南(nan)(nan)門之西(xi)為(wei)西(xi)門,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依山(shan)(shan)(shan)傍(bang)水,夾(jia)淮帶江(jiang)(jiang),險(xian)固現時(shi)(shi)勢(shi)威(wei)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)設(she)置(zhi)有石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)庫(ku)、石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)倉,用以(yi)(yi)儲軍(jun)糧和兵械。在(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)(de)(de)高處(chu)(chu)筑(zhu)有報警的(de)(de)(de)(de)烽火臺,可以(yi)(yi)隨時(shi)(shi)發(fa)(fa)出預報敵軍(jun)侵犯的(de)(de)(de)(de)信號(hao)。至南(nan)(nan)朝時(shi)(shi),石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)作為(wei)保衛(wei)都(dou)(dou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)軍(jun)事(shi)要塞的(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)(di)(di)位依舊未變。 古代長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)繞(rao)清(qing)涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓東(dong)去,巨浪時(shi)(shi)時(shi)(shi)拍(pai)擊山(shan)(shan)(shan)壁,將(jiang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)崖沖刷成峭(qiao)壁。隋(sui)文帝滅(mie)陳、平(ping)毀建(jian)康城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后,在(zai)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)置(zhi)蔣州,唐(tang)代初年(nian)在(zai)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設(she)揚州大都(dou)(dou)督府,石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)隋(sui)朝和初唐(tang)時(shi)(shi)是南(nan)(nan)京(jing)地(di)(di)(di)區的(de)(de)(de)(de)中心。
唐代(dai)以(yi)后江水日漸西移,自唐武德八(ba)年(625年)后,石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)便(bian)開(kai)始廢棄,故(gu)中唐詩人劉禹錫作《石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)》一詩云:“山圍故(gu)國周(zhou)遭(zao)在,潮打空城(cheng)(cheng)寂寞回。淮(huai)水東邊舊時(shi)月,夜深(shen)還過(guo)女墻來(lai)。”詩人筆下的(de)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng),已是一座荒蕪寂寞的(de)“空城(cheng)(cheng)”了。五代(dai)時(shi)期(924年)。石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)上興建了第一座寺廟——興教寺,以(yi)后這(zhe)里就成為寺廟、書院集(ji)中的(de)風景(jing)名勝區了。直到今(jin)天(tian),它(ta)仍以(yi)“石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”的(de)雄姿享譽中外。
據(ju)地(di)質學研究,這里的(de)(de)(de)巖(yan)層是(shi)距今大約1億年(nian)到7000萬年(nian)前的(de)(de)(de)晚白堊(e)紀(ji)的(de)(de)(de)浦口組地(di)層, 在(zai)清(qing)涼(liang)門(men)到草(cao)場(chang)門(men)之間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)城墻下面(mian),有一(yi)塊(kuai)突出的(de)(de)(de)橢圓形石壁,長約6米,寬3米,因(yin)為長年(nian)風化(hua),礫石剝落,坑坑洼洼,斑斑點(dian)點(dian),中(zhong)(zhong)間(jian)還(huan)雜有紫黑相間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)巖(yan)塊(kuai),怪石嶙峋,遠看隱約可見耳目口鼻,酷似一(yi)副猙獰(ning)的(de)(de)(de)鬼(gui)臉,被(bei)稱為“鬼(gui)臉城”。南京民(min)間(jian)中(zhong)(zhong)有關鬼(gui)臉城的(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)說很多。相傳(chuan)這塊(kuai)巖(yan)石原來猶如(ru)刀削(xue)一(yi)般,光滑如(ru)境。如(ru)今在(zai)鬼(gui)臉城西側確有一(yi)處清(qing)亮的(de)(de)(de)池塘,從水面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)側可以看到鬼(gui)臉城的(de)(de)(de)倒影,老(lao)南京人俗稱之為“鬼(gui)臉照鏡子(zi)”。
這一(yi)神奇的傳說,吸(xi)引了(le)無(wu)數的中外(wai)游人。石頭城(cheng)遺址已(yi)被列為(wei)江(jiang)蘇省重點(dian)文(wen)物(wu)保護單位,成(cheng)為(wei)人們(men)踏青覓翠、發思古之幽情(qing)的好去處。
南(nan)(nan)京石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基因就自然山巖鑿成,中段有幾塊蕩(dang)紅色砂礫巖因經古(gu)時長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)水沖刷(shua)而凹(ao)凸不(bu)平,有如(ru)獸面(mian),故俗稱鬼(gui)臉城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)(chang)約3000米,南(nan)(nan)面(mian)開2門(men),東面(mian)開1門(men),西北(bei)因緊(jin)靠長(chang)(chang)江(jiang),故不(bu)設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)。當時,石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為孫(sun)吳(wu)水師(shi)的總部(bu),江(jiang)泊常(chang)有上千(qian)艘船只(zhi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)建(jian)有石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)倉庫,用(yong)來儲存糧食、兵器等物(wu)資。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西最高處還(huan)建(jian)有孫(sun)吳(wu)的烽(feng)火(huo)(huo)臺。據說一(yi)旦發現敵情,在烽(feng)火(huo)(huo)臺一(yi)舉烽(feng)火(huo)(huo),半日內(nei)即(ji)可傳遍長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)沿線。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)地(di)勢險峻,自古(gu)就有“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)虎(hu)踞”之稱。以后(hou)由于長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)河道逐漸西移,石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的軍事價(jia)值有所減(jian)弱。明代朱元(yuan)璋定(ding)都南(nan)(nan)京后(hou),于洪武二年興建(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻,此處石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)便(bian)成了南(nan)(nan)京城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的一(yi)部(bu)分。如(ru)今(jin)石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)已是聞名中外的歷史(shi)古(gu)跡,也是南(nan)(nan)京重要的旅游(you)勝地(di)之一(yi)。
在(zai)南(nan)京石(shi)頭(tou)城城西(xi),景(jing)色(se)清幽,有(you)“城市山(shan)林”之稱。清涼山(shan)上,名勝(sheng)古(gu)跡隨處可尋,有(you)“駐馬坡”、“南(nan)唐古(gu)井(jing)”、“清涼寺”、“崇(chong)正(zheng)書院”及“掃葉樓(lou)”等。石(shi)頭(tou)城在(zai)清涼山(shan)后,南(nan)北全長約3000米。城基遺跡為赭紅色(se),內有(you)大量河光石(shi),一(yi)(yi)般高出地表(biao)0.3-0.7米,最高處為17米,系(xi)自然山(shan)巖鑿成(cheng)。東晉義熙年(nian)間(jian)(405-418)加(jia)磚累(lei)甓,明洪武二(er)年(nian)(1369年(nian))石(shi)頭(tou)城為應天府(fu)城(今(jin)南(nan)京)的一(yi)(yi)部分重加(jia)修建。交(jiao)通:乘游4路(lu),6、21、23、60、75、91、302路(lu)車可達。
公園建設
1990年,南(nan)京(jing)市在石頭城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)舊(jiu)址上興(xing)建了石頭城(cheng)(cheng)公園(yuan)。公園(yuan)以“石城(cheng)(cheng)懷古(gu)”為主題(ti),將石頭城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)悠久歷史與(yu)自然山水有機結合,將古(gu)代戰場與(yu)現代國防教育(yu)融為一體(ti),規(gui)劃(hua)總面積近16.94公頃(qing), 以古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻為軸線,體(ti)現歷史文化古(gu)都的(de)特色。北起(qi)清涼(liang)山體(ti)校,南(nan)至清涼(liang)門,西(xi)臨古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻,東到虎踞路。
石(shi)(shi)頭城又(you)稱(cheng)“鬼臉城”,是(shi)(shi)三國東吳時期孫權在(zai)赤壁(bi)(bi)之(zhi)戰后, 于(yu)(yu)公元211年將首(shou)府由京(jing)口(今(jin)鎮江)遷至秣(mo)陵(今(jin)南京(jing)),利用(yong)清涼山的(de)(de)天然石(shi)(shi)壁(bi)(bi)建(jian)立的(de)(de)軍(jun)事要(yao)塞(sai)(sai),地(di)勢(shi)險要(yao),氣勢(shi)雄偉,是(shi)(shi)歷史滄桑的(de)(de)實(shi)物(wu)見證。站于(yu)(yu)此地(di),最能(neng)領會劉禹錫《西(xi)塞(sai)(sai)山懷古(gu)》和譽(yu)為登臨(lin)之(zhi)絕(jue)唱的(de)(de)王安石(shi)(shi)《桂枝香》-金陵懷古(gu)詞的(de)(de)意境。“鬼臉照鏡子” 是(shi)(shi)一(yi)個在(zai)歷史上即聞名的(de)(de)景點,因(yin)(yin)在(zai)城墻中(zhong)部有(you)(you)一(yi)塊突出(chu)墻體的(de)(de)橢圓形石(shi)(shi)壁(bi)(bi),遠看隱約(yue)可見耳目口鼻,酷(ku)似一(yi)副鬼臉,因(yin)(yin)此被稱(cheng)為“鬼臉”,“鬼臉” 下的(de)(de)這面(mian)水塘(tang)” 鏡” 的(de)(de)面(mian)積有(you)(you)1600多平(ping)方米。公園(yuan)重修(xiu)時,著名的(de)(de)燕(yan)王河景觀也從歷史的(de)(de)覆蓋中(zhong)清理出(chu)來(lai),重見天日(ri),成為一(yi)條兩岸郁郁蔥蔥的(de)(de)清流(liu)。不(bu)論(lun)遠觀還是(shi)(shi)就近審視,城墻垂柳,碧(bi)水綠樹,都是(shi)(shi)一(yi)方絕(jue)佳(jia)的(de)(de)景致。
石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)園劃分(fen)為國(guo)防春(chun)曉、石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪和山(shan)居秋(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)瞑三大景區,設21個(ge)景點。石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪區位于公(gong)(gong)園的(de)西(xi)側(ce),北至(zhi)清(qing)涼山(shan),南至(zhi)清(qing)涼門(men),沿古城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)呈帶狀分(fen)布,是石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)園的(de)精華所在(zai), 是金陵四(si)十八(ba)景之一。而山(shan)居秋(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)瞑區在(zai)公(gong)(gong)園東側(ce)的(de)山(shan)林地帶,植(zhi)被(bei)濃密,生機(ji)盎然(ran),留(liu)連其中,可感受(shou)到盛唐時代(dai)著名的(de)詩人王(wang)維(wei)那首著名田園詩的(de)意(yi)境:空(kong)山(shan)新雨(yu)后(hou),天氣晚來秋(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。 明月松間照,清(qing)泉(quan)石(shi)上流。竹喧歸浣(huan)女,蓮動下(xia)漁舟(zhou)。隨意(yi)春(chun)芳歇,王(wang)孫自(zi)可留(liu)。清(qing)涼山(shan)和石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)一帶有(you)“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市山(shan)林”之美(mei)稱,雨(yu)后(hou)秋(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)清(qing)氣爽的(de)日子游覽,當會感覺名不虛傳(chuan),不復有(you)元代(dai)薩都剌《登石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)》一詞的(de)凄楚與傷感。
跨過虎(hu)踞路,清涼山公園與之(zhi)遙相呼應,一(yi)雄渾壯闊,一(yi)寧靜深沉,互為映襯。