簡介
石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)被(bei)稱為石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng),廣(guang)義上它(ta)(ta)是如今南京的別稱,狹(xia)義上它(ta)(ta)是指南京老城(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)的石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)山石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)。孫權在石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)山修建了石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng),用它(ta)(ta)作為保護東吳(wu)京師建業的資本;預備軍(jun)事石(shi)(shi)材,石(shi)(shi)材基地多建造了烽火臺,在軍(jun)事上,用來立(li)即(ji)發出(chu)報警信號。后來,金將(jiang)軍(jun)王(wang)俊率海(hai)軍(jun)進攻東吳(wu),東吳(wu)家連鎖橫(heng)江塊,晉(jin)軍(jun)斷鏈。導致石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)失守,不得(de)人心的國王(wang)孫皓趕緊投降。劉禹錫有詩詠和事:“王(wang)濬樓船下益州,金陵王(wang)氣黯(an)然收。”
后來,長(chang)江已逐(zhu)漸(jian)西遷,并在(zai)石(shi)(shi)頭城的(de)河流泥沙(sha)的(de)沉積,變(bian)得平坦。石(shi)(shi)頭城不再是(shi)這(zhe)么危險。朱園建(jian)設天(tian)(tian)(tian)府(fu)(fu)石(shi)(shi)頭城市為天(tian)(tian)(tian)府(fu)(fu)市的(de)一部(bu)分。石(shi)(shi)頭山如(ru)今是(shi)涼爽的(de)山區。這(zhe)是(shi)在(zai)西方的(de)河,是(shi)一條(tiao)河天(tian)(tian)(tian)然石(shi)(shi)材(cai)的(de)影響。建(jian)造石(shi)(shi)頭城,天(tian)(tian)(tian)然石(shi)(shi)材(cai)是(shi)城市的(de)墻的(de)一部(bu)分。
歷史沿革
石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)全長約3000米 ,筑于(yu)楚威王七年(nian)(前(qian)333年(nian))。東漢(han)建安十六年(nian)(211年(nian)),吳國孫權(quan)遷至(zhi)秣(mo)陵(今南京),在石(shi)頭山金陵邑原(yuan)址筑城(cheng)(cheng),取名石(shi)頭。扼守長江險(xian)要,為兵(bing)家必爭之地,有石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)虎(hu)踞之稱。
在南京的清涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)麓(lu),自虎踞關龍蟠里石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)到草場門(men),可以看到城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻逶(wei)迤雄峙,石(shi)(shi)(shi)崖聳立,這就(jiu)是(shi)依山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)而筑(zhu)的石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。同治(zhi)《上(shang)(shang)江兩縣(xian)志.山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)考》載:“自江北以來,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)皆無石(shi)(shi)(shi),至此山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)始有石(shi)(shi)(shi),故名。”《建康志》也說:“山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),又名曰石(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。”這里所說的“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,也就(jiu)是(shi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。
關(guan)于(yu)(yu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)由來(lai),要(yao)追(zhui)溯到兩千多年前的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)戰(zhan)(zhan)國(guo)(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi)代。據史書記載,周顯(xian)王(wang)三十六年(公元前333年),楚國(guo)(guo)(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)郢,即今(jin)(jin)湖(hu)北江(jiang)陵(ling))滅(mie)(mie)了(le)越國(guo)(guo)(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)吳,即今(jin)(jin)蘇(su)州),楚威王(wang)設(she)置金陵(ling)邑,并在(zai)今(jin)(jin)清(qing)(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)筑(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)。秦(qin)始皇(huang)二(er)十四年(公元前223年),楚國(guo)(guo)(guo)滅(mie)(mie)亡,秦(qin)改金陵(ling)邑為秣(mo)陵(ling)縣。相(xiang)傳(chuan)三國(guo)(guo)(guo)時(shi)(shi),諸(zhu)葛亮(liang)在(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)戰(zhan)(zhan)前夕,出使東吳,與孫權共商破曹大計。據說,諸(zhu)葛亮(liang)途經(jing)秣(mo)陵(ling)縣時(shi)(shi),特(te)地(di)騎馬到石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)觀(guan)察(cha)山(shan)(shan)(shan)川(chuan)形勢(shi)。他看到以(yi)(yi)鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)為首的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)群山(shan)(shan)(shan),像蒼(cang)龍一般蜿蜒蟠伏于(yu)(yu)東南(nan)(nan),而以(yi)(yi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為終點的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)西(xi)部諸(zhu)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又像猛虎似(si)地(di)雄(xiong)踞在(zai)大江(jiang)之(zhi)濱,于(yu)(yu)是(shi)發出了(le)“鐘山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍蟠,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)虎踞,真乃帝王(wang)之(zhi)宅也”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)贊(zan)嘆,并向孫權建議遷都秣(mo)陵(ling)。 孫權在(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)戰(zhan)(zhan)后,遷移(yi)到秣(mo)陵(ling)(今(jin)(jin)南(nan)(nan)京(jing)),并改稱秣(mo)陵(ling)為建業。第二(er)年就(jiu)在(zai)清(qing)(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)原有城(cheng)(cheng)基上(shang)修建了(le)著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)。當時(shi)(shi)長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)就(jiu)從清(qing)(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)下流過,因而石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事地(di)位十分突出,孫吳也一直(zhi)將此處作為最主要(yao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)水軍基地(di)。此后數百年間,這里(li)(li)成(cheng)為戰(zhan)(zhan)守的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事重鎮,南(nan)(nan)北戰(zhan)(zhan)爭,往(wang)(wang)往(wang)(wang)以(yi)(yi)奪取石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)決定勝負。 石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)(yi)清(qing)(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)坡(po)天然(ran)峭(qiao)壁(bi)為城(cheng)(cheng)基,環山(shan)(shan)(shan)筑(zhu)造,周長(chang)(chang)“七里(li)(li)一百步”,相(xiang)當于(yu)(yu)如今(jin)(jin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)六里(li)(li)左右。北緣大江(jiang),南(nan)(nan)抵秦(qin)淮(huai)河口(kou),南(nan)(nan)開二(er)門(men),東開一門(men),南(nan)(nan)門(men)之(zhi)西(xi)為西(xi)門(men),城(cheng)(cheng)依(yi)(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)傍水,夾淮(huai)帶江(jiang),險(xian)固現時(shi)(shi)勢(shi)威。城(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)設(she)置有石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)庫、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)倉,用以(yi)(yi)儲軍糧和兵械。在(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)高處筑(zhu)有報(bao)警(jing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烽火臺,可以(yi)(yi)隨時(shi)(shi)發出預(yu)報(bao)敵(di)軍侵犯(fan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)信號。至(zhi)南(nan)(nan)朝時(shi)(shi),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)作為保(bao)衛都城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事要(yao)塞的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)位依(yi)(yi)舊未變。 古代長(chang)(chang)江(jiang)繞清(qing)(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓東去,巨(ju)浪時(shi)(shi)時(shi)(shi)拍擊山(shan)(shan)(shan)壁(bi),將山(shan)(shan)(shan)崖沖刷成(cheng)峭(qiao)壁(bi)。隋文帝滅(mie)(mie)陳、平毀建康(kang)城(cheng)(cheng)后,在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)置蔣州,唐(tang)代初(chu)年在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)設(she)揚州大都督(du)府,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)隋朝和初(chu)唐(tang)時(shi)(shi)是(shi)南(nan)(nan)京(jing)地(di)區的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)中心(xin)。
唐代以后(hou)江(jiang)水(shui)日漸(jian)西移,自唐武德八年(625年)后(hou),石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)便開始廢棄,故中(zhong)唐詩(shi)人劉禹(yu)錫(xi)作《石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)》一詩(shi)云(yun):“山圍故國周遭在,潮打空(kong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)寂(ji)寞回。淮水(shui)東邊(bian)舊時(shi)月,夜(ye)深還(huan)過(guo)女墻來。”詩(shi)人筆下(xia)的石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),已是一座荒蕪寂(ji)寞的“空(kong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”了。五代時(shi)期(qi)(924年)。石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上興(xing)建了第一座寺(si)廟——興(xing)教寺(si),以后(hou)這里就成為(wei)寺(si)廟、書院集中(zhong)的風景(jing)名勝區了。直到今天(tian),它仍(reng)以“石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”的雄姿享譽中(zhong)外(wai)。
據地質學研究,這里(li)的(de)巖(yan)層是距今大約(yue)1億(yi)年到7000萬(wan)年前的(de)晚白堊紀的(de)浦(pu)口組地層, 在清(qing)涼門到草(cao)場門之間的(de)城墻下(xia)面,有(you)(you)一塊突出的(de)橢圓形(xing)石(shi)壁,長(chang)約(yue)6米(mi),寬3米(mi),因為(wei)長(chang)年風化(hua),礫石(shi)剝落,坑(keng)坑(keng)洼洼,斑(ban)斑(ban)點點,中間還雜有(you)(you)紫黑相間的(de)巖(yan)塊,怪石(shi)嶙峋(xun),遠(yuan)看(kan)隱約(yue)可見耳目口鼻,酷似一副猙獰的(de)鬼(gui)臉(lian),被稱為(wei)“鬼(gui)臉(lian)城”。南京(jing)民間中有(you)(you)關鬼(gui)臉(lian)城的(de)傳說很多。相傳這塊巖(yan)石(shi)原來(lai)猶(you)如刀削一般,光滑(hua)如境。如今在鬼(gui)臉(lian)城西側確有(you)(you)一處清(qing)亮的(de)池塘,從水面的(de)一側可以看(kan)到鬼(gui)臉(lian)城的(de)倒影,老(lao)南京(jing)人俗稱之為(wei)“鬼(gui)臉(lian)照鏡子”。
這一神奇的傳說,吸引了無數的中外游(you)人。石頭城遺址(zhi)已被(bei)列為(wei)江蘇省重點文(wen)物保(bao)護單位,成(cheng)為(wei)人們(men)踏青覓(mi)翠、發(fa)思古之(zhi)幽情(qing)的好(hao)去處(chu)。
南京(jing)(jing)石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基因就自然山巖鑿(zao)成,中段有幾塊蕩紅色砂礫巖因經古時(shi)長江(jiang)(jiang)水沖(chong)刷而凹凸不(bu)平,有如獸面,故俗(su)稱鬼臉城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長約3000米,南面開2門,東(dong)面開1門,西北因緊靠長江(jiang)(jiang),故不(bu)設(she)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門。當時(shi),石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為孫吳(wu)水師的總部,江(jiang)(jiang)泊常有上千(qian)艘(sou)船(chuan)只。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內建有石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)倉(cang)庫,用來儲存糧食、兵器等物資。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西最高處還(huan)建有孫吳(wu)的烽火(huo)臺。據說一(yi)旦發現敵(di)情,在烽火(huo)臺一(yi)舉烽火(huo),半日內即可傳遍長江(jiang)(jiang)沿(yan)線。石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)地(di)勢險(xian)峻,自古就有“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)虎踞”之(zhi)稱。以后由于(yu)長江(jiang)(jiang)河道逐漸西移,石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的軍事價值有所減弱。明(ming)代朱元璋定都南京(jing)(jing)后,于(yu)洪(hong)武二(er)年(nian)興(xing)建城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻,此處石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)便(bian)成了南京(jing)(jing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的一(yi)部分(fen)。如今(jin)石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)已是聞名中外(wai)的歷史古跡,也是南京(jing)(jing)重要(yao)的旅游勝地(di)之(zhi)一(yi)。
在(zai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)京(jing)石頭城(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)西,景色清幽,有(you)“城(cheng)(cheng)市山(shan)(shan)(shan)林”之稱(cheng)。清涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang),名勝古(gu)跡隨處可尋,有(you)“駐(zhu)馬坡”、“南(nan)(nan)(nan)唐古(gu)井”、“清涼寺”、“崇正書院”及“掃(sao)葉樓”等。石頭城(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)清涼山(shan)(shan)(shan)后,南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)全長約(yue)3000米。城(cheng)(cheng)基遺跡為(wei)(wei)赭紅(hong)色,內有(you)大量河(he)光石,一般高(gao)(gao)出地(di)表0.3-0.7米,最高(gao)(gao)處為(wei)(wei)17米,系(xi)自然山(shan)(shan)(shan)巖鑿成。東晉義熙年(nian)間(405-418)加磚累(lei)甓,明洪武二(er)年(nian)(1369年(nian))石頭城(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)應天府城(cheng)(cheng)(今南(nan)(nan)(nan)京(jing))的一部分(fen)重(zhong)加修建(jian)。交(jiao)通:乘游(you)4路,6、21、23、60、75、91、302路車(che)可達(da)。
公園建設
1990年(nian),南(nan)京市在石頭(tou)城的(de)舊址上(shang)興建了石頭(tou)城公園。公園以(yi)“石城懷古”為主(zhu)題,將(jiang)石頭(tou)城的(de)悠(you)久歷(li)史與自(zi)然山(shan)水有(you)機(ji)結(jie)合(he),將(jiang)古代戰場與現(xian)代國(guo)防教(jiao)育融(rong)為一體,規劃總(zong)面積(ji)近16.94公頃, 以(yi)古城墻為軸(zhou)線(xian),體現(xian)歷(li)史文化古都(dou)的(de)特色。北起清涼(liang)山(shan)體校,南(nan)至清涼(liang)門,西(xi)臨古城墻,東到虎踞路。
石頭城又稱“鬼(gui)臉(lian)城”,是(shi)三國東吳時期孫權在(zai)赤壁之戰后, 于公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)211年將首府(fu)由京(jing)口(今(jin)鎮江)遷至秣(mo)陵(今(jin)南(nan)京(jing)),利用清(qing)(qing)涼(liang)山的(de)(de)(de)(de)天然(ran)石壁建立的(de)(de)(de)(de)軍事要塞,地勢險要,氣勢雄偉,是(shi)歷史(shi)滄桑的(de)(de)(de)(de)實物見證(zheng)。站于此地,最能領(ling)會劉禹錫《西(xi)塞山懷古》和(he)譽(yu)為登臨之絕(jue)唱的(de)(de)(de)(de)王(wang)安石《桂枝香》-金(jin)陵懷古詞(ci)的(de)(de)(de)(de)意(yi)境(jing)。“鬼(gui)臉(lian)照鏡子” 是(shi)一(yi)(yi)個在(zai)歷史(shi)上即聞名的(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)點,因在(zai)城墻(qiang)中(zhong)部(bu)有一(yi)(yi)塊突出墻(qiang)體的(de)(de)(de)(de)橢(tuo)圓形(xing)石壁,遠(yuan)看隱約(yue)可見耳目口鼻,酷(ku)似一(yi)(yi)副鬼(gui)臉(lian),因此被稱為“鬼(gui)臉(lian)”,“鬼(gui)臉(lian)” 下的(de)(de)(de)(de)這(zhe)面水塘” 鏡” 的(de)(de)(de)(de)面積有1600多平方米(mi)。公(gong)(gong)園重修(xiu)時,著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)燕(yan)王(wang)河景(jing)觀(guan)也(ye)從歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)覆(fu)蓋中(zhong)清(qing)(qing)理出來(lai),重見天日,成為一(yi)(yi)條兩岸(an)郁(yu)郁(yu)蔥蔥的(de)(de)(de)(de)清(qing)(qing)流。不論遠(yuan)觀(guan)還(huan)是(shi)就近審視,城墻(qiang)垂柳,碧水綠(lv)樹(shu),都是(shi)一(yi)(yi)方絕(jue)佳(jia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)致。
石頭(tou)城(cheng)公(gong)園(yuan)劃分為國(guo)防春(chun)曉(xiao)、石城(cheng)霽雪和山(shan)居秋瞑(ming)三大景區(qu),設21個景點(dian)。石城(cheng)霽雪區(qu)位于公(gong)園(yuan)的(de)(de)(de)西側,北至清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan),南至清(qing)(qing)涼門,沿古(gu)城(cheng)墻呈帶(dai)(dai)狀分布,是石頭(tou)城(cheng)公(gong)園(yuan)的(de)(de)(de)精華所在(zai), 是金陵四十八(ba)景之(zhi)一。而山(shan)居秋瞑(ming)區(qu)在(zai)公(gong)園(yuan)東側的(de)(de)(de)山(shan)林地帶(dai)(dai),植被濃密(mi),生機盎(ang)然,留連(lian)其中,可感受到盛唐(tang)時代(dai)著名的(de)(de)(de)詩人王(wang)維那首著名田園(yuan)詩的(de)(de)(de)意境:空山(shan)新(xin)雨后(hou),天氣(qi)晚來秋。 明月松間照,清(qing)(qing)泉(quan)石上流(liu)。竹喧歸浣女,蓮動下(xia)漁舟。隨(sui)意春(chun)芳歇,王(wang)孫自可留。清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)和石頭(tou)城(cheng)一帶(dai)(dai)有(you)“城(cheng)市山(shan)林”之(zhi)美稱,雨后(hou)秋清(qing)(qing)氣(qi)爽的(de)(de)(de)日(ri)子游覽,當會感覺名不虛傳(chuan),不復(fu)有(you)元代(dai)薩都剌(la)《登(deng)石頭(tou)城(cheng)》一詞(ci)的(de)(de)(de)凄(qi)楚與傷感。
跨過虎踞路(lu),清涼山公(gong)園與之遙相呼應,一(yi)雄渾壯闊,一(yi)寧靜深沉,互為映襯。