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簡介

玄妙觀(guan)(guan)是位于(yu)中國東南部著(zhu)名旅游城市蘇州(zhou)的(de)著(zhu)名道(dao)觀(guan)(guan)，創建于(yu)公(gong)元276年(nian)，最初(chu)名叫(jiao)“真慶道(dao)院”，后來曾改稱為“開(kai)元宮”、“天慶觀(guan)(guan)”。公(gong)元1295年(nian)元朝皇帝下令改為玄妙觀(guan)(guan)。玄妙觀(guan)(guan)至今已有1700多年(nian)的(de)歷史(shi)，所(suo)以被稱為“江南第一古觀(guan)(guan)”。

玄妙觀坐落(luo)在(zai)蘇(su)州古城(cheng)中心，其主殿三清殿建成于南宋(song)年間，是蘇(su)州僅(jin)存的一座南宋(song)木構殿宇式建筑(zhu)，歷史悠(you)久(jiu)、規(gui)模宏偉，在(zai)中國(guo)(guo)建筑(zhu)史上具有重要(yao)的歷史價值(zhi)，1982年被(bei)列為(wei)全(quan)國(guo)(guo)重點(dian)文物(wu)保護(hu)單位。

現(xian)玄妙觀進(jin)行了修(xiu)復整(zheng)(zheng)治，有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)七座，中(zhong)路(lu)(lu)有(you)正山門、三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，東(dong)路(lu)(lu)有(you)文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣、壽星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，西路(lu)(lu)有(you)雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。觀內有(you)很多珍貴的(de)文(wen)物遺跡(ji)，道教(jiao)文(wen)化內涵深厚,是中(zhong)國(guo)少有(you)的(de)完(wan)整(zheng)(zheng)道觀建(jian)(jian)筑群，其中(zhong)三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)現(xian)仍保留(liu)著宋代建(jian)(jian)筑的(de)風貌與特點。

玄妙觀歷史上曾是(shi)蘇州(zhou)宗教文(wen)化中心，現是(shi)蘇州(zhou)地(di)區道(dao)教活動的主要(yao)場所(suo)。由(you)于優越的地(di)理位置，眾多的文(wen)物(wu)古跡(ji)以及豐富的道(dao)教文(wen)化內涵，玄妙觀已成(cheng)為(wei)蘇州(zhou)市著名的旅游景點之一。

歷史沿革

蘇州(zhou)香火最盛的地方并非(fei)佛教寺廟，而(er)是道教的玄妙(miao)觀(guan)。

玄妙觀始建于西晉，已(yi)有1700余年的歷(li)史。觀內(nei)建于南宋(song)的三(san)清殿是江南最大的木(mu)構古(gu)建筑。殿內(nei)供奉的高達17米(mi)的三(san)清（上(shang)清、玉清、太(tai)清）塑像，堪稱宋(song)代雕塑的上(shang)佳之作。玄妙觀中現存有唐(tang)吳道子畫老君像、玄宗贊(zan)、顏(yan)真卿書法等(deng)碑(bei)刻，彌足(zu)珍貴．

除三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)正(zheng)山(shan)門(men)(men)外，玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)還有(you)歷代建(jian)成的(de)副(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)二十四座(zuo)配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東(dong)腳門(men)(men)依次(ci)為：神州(zhou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、太(tai)陽宮(清(qing))、天醫藥王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))、真官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、天后(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、文(wen)(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、斗(dou)姆閣(清(qing) )、火神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、三(san)(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))、機房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、東(dong)岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))、痘(dou)司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))等(deng)十四處，西腳門(men)(men)配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依次(ci)為：雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、壽星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))、水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))等(deng)七處。三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)為彌羅寶閣，再后(hou)面是蓑(suo)衣(yi)真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song)(song))、肝胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、薩祖方丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所(suo)供神像大(da)(da)都出自神話傳說，如(ru)太(tai)陽神、雷(lei)神、火神、關帝、文(wen)(wen)曲(qu)星、灶神、土地、八仙(xian)、壽星、觀(guan)音等(deng)，體現了(le)(le)蘇州(zhou)地方文(wen)(wen)化(hua)特色和(he)民間信仰的(de)色彩，曾是城鄉老百姓精(jing)神寄(ji)托和(he)休閑娛(yu)樂的(de)去所(suo)。從康熙(xi)十三(san)(san)年(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)674年)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)建(jian)筑(zhu)群圖上可以看出東(dong)至(zhi)洙(zhu)泗巷(xiang)， 西臨(lin)大(da)(da)成坊(fang)，北(bei)至(zhi)舊學前河，南面有(you)黃色照(zhao)墻(qiang)橫亙正(zheng)山(shan)門(men)(men)兩側，整個建(jian)筑(zhu)群十分壯觀(guan)。彈丸(wan)之地集中(zhong)了(le)(le)宋(song)(song)(song)元(yuan)(yuan)明清(qing)歷代殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)，真可謂(wei)是一(yi)座(zuo)古典(dian)建(jian)筑(zhu)的(de)博物館(guan)。

據道光《元(yuan)妙觀(guan)志》圖(tu)載，清(qing)(qing)代玄妙觀(guan)盛時占地5.5萬平方米，共有30多座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)。中軸線上自南而北依(yi)次為(wei)正(zheng)山(shan)(shan)門(men)、三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、彌羅寶(bao)閣(ge)，其(qi)他殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)分(fen)布在25處自成(cheng)院落(luo)(luo)的“子院”內，如(ru)眾星拱月般從東、西(xi)、北三面圍繞著中軸線上的主要殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)，形(xing)成(cheng)一片巍峨壯麗的建(jian)筑(zhu)群。但自咸豐、同治之際遭(zao)受戰火后，即漸趨衰落(luo)(luo)，未能恢復舊觀(guan)，宏偉的彌羅寶(bao)閣(ge)也于民國元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(1912)8月28日(ri)失火焚(fen)毀。1956年(nian)(nian)，整修三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、 正(zheng)山(shan)(shan)門(men)及東、西(xi)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)門(men)墻(qiang)，清(qing)(qing)理廣庭。同年(nian)(nian)，玄妙觀(guan)三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為(wei)省文物保護單位。1966年(nian)(nian)后遭(zao)受損壞，1981年(nian)(nian)再(zai)修三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)及正(zheng)山(shan)(shan)門(men)。1982年(nian)(nian)，玄妙觀(guan)三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為(wei)全國重點文物保護單位。

蘇州市政府又連續(xu)撥巨款重修玄妙觀(guan)正山門(men)和三清殿(dian)，殿(dian)內神像重塑金身，已于1999年元月開光慶(qing)典(dian)。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)多數殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)各有(you)(you)(you)(you)山(shan)門(men)(men)、照墻(qiang)，觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)廣(guang)(guang)場(chang)商販與(yu)百戲雜陳(chen)。觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)方(fang)丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)穹窿山(shan)上(shang)真觀(guan)(guan)(guan)下(xia)院，直至(zhi)民國初，該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振法堂內(nei)高懸戒(jie)規，內(nei)容主(zhu)要有(you)(you)(you)(you)不(bu)(bu)準娶(qu)家室、不(bu)(bu)準目無師(shi)(shi)長等。違反戒(jie)規者(zhe)，輕則重責、重則開(kai)(kai)(kai)除(俗稱“貼革條”)。方(fang)丈(zhang)為(wei)(wei)一(yi)(yi)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)之(zhi)主(zhu)。民國元(yuan)年(nian)8月(yue)28日， 大(da)(da)廈三(san)層、飛(fei)甍隆(long)棟的(de)彌羅(luo)寶閣失火(huo)焚毀(hui)，內(nei)僅金(jin)身神(shen)(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)就有(you)(you)(you)(you)380余(yu)(yu)(yu)尊，閶門(men)(men)外十(shi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)莊淘(tao)沙戶(hu)曾擬出資(zi)1萬元(yuan)承包清除火(huo)場(chang)垃(la)圾。方(fang)丈(zhang)倪仰(yang)云(yun)因(yin)失火(huo)被(bei)(bei)提出公訴并辭(ci)職，自(zi)(zi)此方(fang)丈(zhang)威信大(da)(da)降，戒(jie)規松弛。方(fang)丈(zhang)管(guan)(guan)2房(fang)(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至(zhi)北伐時，方(fang)丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有(you)(you)(you)(you)五(wu)六處山(shan)房(fang)(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百間屋。各房(fang)(fang)(fang)輪流執(zhi)管(guan)(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有(you)(you)(you)(you)帳房(fang)(fang)(fang)、文(wen)書及香工10余(yu)(yu)(yu)人(ren)(ren)(ren)，廚師(shi)(shi)2人(ren)(ren)(ren)。其余(yu)(yu)(yu)12房(fang)(fang)(fang)分掌(zhang)一(yi)(yi)至(zhi)二、三(san)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實(shi)各為(wei)(wei)一(yi)(yi)獨立道院。22年(nian)太陽(yang)宮住持許鶴梅(mei)曾去(qu)(qu)上(shang)海(hai)合伙開(kai)(kai)(kai)設(she)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)分院，一(yi)(yi)年(nian)后因(yin)生意不(bu)(bu)好(hao)而收歇。20年(nian)代至(zhi)抗日戰爭中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)，祖師(shi)(shi)、灶君、八仙(xian)、壽星(xing)(xing)、水府、關帝諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相(xiang)繼圮(pi)廢、改(gai)建(jian)或被(bei)(bei)日機(ji)轟炸震坍。三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)擺(bai)滿字畫攤，屋面被(bei)(bei)敵偽人(ren)(ren)(ren)員捉鴿(ge)子(zi)踐踏得嚴重漏雨。機(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾開(kai)(kai)(kai)設(she)賭場(chang)，長期出租(zu)和被(bei)(bei)典賣(mai)的(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)神(shen)(shen)(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民國6、32、33和35年(nian)曾先后修(xiu)葺東(dong)岳(yue)、真官(guan)、雷(lei)尊和觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但其余(yu)(yu)(yu)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日趨破(po)敗。近(jin)解放時正山(shan)門(men)(men)淪為(wei)(wei)銀元(yuan)市場(chang)。至(zhi)1949年(nian)存正山(shan)門(men)(men)及殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三(san)清、方(fang)丈(zhang)、 真人(ren)(ren)(ren)、肝胃(wei)、藥王、東(dong)岳(yue)、火(huo)神(shen)(shen)(shen)、三(san)茅、天后、真官(guan)、文(wen)昌(chang)、機(ji)房(fang)(fang)(fang)、三(san)官(guan)、雷(lei)尊、觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及斗(dou)姆閣、太陽(yang)宮)。1952年(nian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)道士(shi)33人(ren)(ren)(ren)，家屬(shu)83人(ren)(ren)(ren)，香工6人(ren)(ren)(ren)；有(you)(you)(you)(you)屋523.5間，內(nei)自(zi)(zi)用200間，余(yu)(yu)(yu)多出租(zu)。1956年(nian)統計，占地51.72畝，神(shen)(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)519尊，同年(nian)將(jiang)廣(guang)(guang)場(chang)周圍600余(yu)(yu)(yu)戶(hu)店(dian)攤居民遷(qian)(qian)出，斗(dou)姆閣改(gai)建(jian)為(wei)(wei)書畫店(dian)。1957年(nian)全觀(guan)(guan)(guan)收入：房(fang)(fang)(fang)地租(zu)454元(yuan)，香火(huo)94元(yuan)，法事29元(yuan)，其他343元(yuan)。1958年(nian)11月(yue)道教學習會直接掌(zhang)管(guan)(guan)三(san)清、星(xing)(xing)宿(原屬(shu)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)將(jiang)在清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花甲星(xing)(xing)宿塑像(xiang)(xiang)遷(qian)(qian)入，故名)兩(liang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及雷(lei)尊、 火(huo)神(shen)(shen)(shen)的(de)大(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部分，余(yu)(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除留(liu)少量道士(shi)自(zi)(zi)住外，都交給房(fang)(fang)(fang)管(guan)(guan)局(ju)管(guan)(guan)理，13道房(fang)(fang)(fang)至(zhi)此消失。1959年(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚毀(hui)。該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)的(de)五(wu)岳(yue)樓，構建(jian)工巧，四面殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)，中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)峙一(yi)(yi)樓，“大(da)(da)躍進(jin)”中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)全殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去(qu)(qu)。1964年(nian)市政(zheng)府又(you)撥款整修(xiu)，三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與(yu)正山(shan)門(men)(men)油漆(qi)一(yi)(yi)新，廣(guang)(guang)場(chang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)遍(bian)植(zhi)綠樹草(cao)茵。“文(wen)化大(da)(da)革命”起(qi)，除三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神(shen)(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)幸獲保存(“玉(yu)清”神(shen)(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)的(de)頭部被(bei)(bei)砍)外，其余(yu)(yu)(yu)神(shen)(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)、道經、科書被(bei)(bei)焚燒數晝夜，銅像(xiang)(xiang)8尊亦被(bei)(bei)毀(hui)，三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)(yi)度改(gai)為(wei)(wei)收租(zu)院泥塑展覽會，兩(liang)廊各配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在 60～70年(nian)代陸續改(gai)作(zuo)商店(dian)、倉庫、菜場(chang)。

其間失(shi)去的殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分別為(wei)(wei)彌羅(luo)寶閣，1912年(nian)(nian)失(shi)火焚(fen)毀(hui)，原(yuan)地改(gai)建中(zhong)山(shan)堂；灶(zao)君(jun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)出借給同(tong)仁救火會(hui)，1930年(nian)(nian)被(bei)會(hui)擅(shan)自拆(chai)除(chu)(chu)改(gai)建，后(hou)為(wei)(wei)勞(lao)保(bao)用(yong)品商店；太陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)為(wei)(wei)吳縣黃天源(yuan)糕團店門(men)市部(bu)；東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)出租給昆(kun)劇業余(yu)劇團，1959年(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)失(shi)火燒毀(hui)，1961年(nian)(nian)該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)門(men)及殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)址由影(ying)劇公(gong)司使(shi)用(yong)；斗姆閣，解放前(qian)為(wei)(wei)攤販公(gong)會(hui)使(shi)用(yong)，抗戰勝(sheng)利后(hou)被(bei)典賣給居民，現為(wei)(wei)民居；祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)蘇州淪陷時毀(hui)，現為(wei)(wei)輕工門(men)市部(bu)；八仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)坍(tan)毀(hui)，現為(wei)(wei)菜(cai)(cai)場(chang)；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)借給春(chun)苑茶館，現為(wei)(wei)茶場(chang)；水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)造國(guo)貨公(gong)司時，將北(bei)局觀前(qian)菜(cai)(cai)場(chang)遷移(yi)至此(ci)，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)拆(chai)掉；關(guan)帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)日機轟炸(zha)被(bei)震(zhen)坍(tan)，現為(wei)(wei)花木盆景公(gong)司；痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)代被(bei)典押后(hou)成為(wei)(wei)民居。今仍屬(shu)道教使(shi)用(yong)的除(chu)(chu)正(zheng)山(shan)門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有(you)火神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿(su)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，其余(yu)的則后(hou)來又被(bei)有(you)關(guan)單(dan)位占用(yong)或拆(chai)除(chu)(chu)。

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀內(nei)文化(hua)積淀(dian)深(shen)厚，民間傳說動人，舊有(you)十八(ba)景之說，分別為元(yuan)趙孟頫所(suo)書玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀重(zhong)修山門碑(bei)、麒麟照墻(qiang)、朝北玄(xuan)(xuan)帝銅殿、六(liu)角亭、釘(ding)釘(ding)石欄桿、一(yi)(yi)步三條橋、無字碑(bei)、海星壇、一(yi)(yi)人弄、楊(yang)芝畫(hua)、運木古井、妙一(yi)(yi)統元(yuan)匾額、靠天吃飯圖碑(bei)，如今(jin)十八(ba)景中還(huan)(huan)保存九處。玄(xuan)(xuan)妙觀文物中著名的還(huan)(huan)有(you)歷代碑(bei)刻，有(you)老子(zi)像碑(bei)、永禁機匠叫(jiao)歇(xie)碑(bei)等(deng)等(deng)計有(you)八(ba)十一(yi)(yi)塊。除部(bu)分收藏在文廟外，還(huan)(huan)余下(xia)不(bu)少成為碑(bei)廊，現藏在輕工門市部(bu)夾弄內(nei)，歷劫不(bu)滅，彌足珍貴(gui)。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)值得一(yi)(yi)提的(de)還有(you)正山門八字照墻，當(dang)年為(wei)此還掀起過一(yi)(yi)場軒然大(da)波。照墻前(qian)原有(you)一(yi)(yi)排平屋，有(you)七、八家(jia)商(shang)鋪，1930年觀(guan)前(qian)街拓寬，影響這(zhe)些商(shang)鋪，德記地(di)產公(gong)司出(chu)面(mian)向玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)方丈顏品笙協(xie)商(shang)拆除照墻，租用兩側地(di)基(ji)，搭屋經商(shang)，條件(jian)是(shi)訂約十五年，付給押金一(yi)(yi)萬元。此舉一(yi)(yi)出(chu)，引起地(di)方人士反對，形成(cheng)“保古派”與“保商(shang)派”之爭，后經江蘇省建(jian)設(she)廳批準，正山門兩端建(jian)起了(le)與玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)極不(bu)協(xie)調的(de)三層樓房(fang)，道觀(guan)古樸肅穆的(de)風貌從此不(bu)復再現。

玄妙觀三清殿之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou)，原有一(yi)(yi)座始建于明正統三年(nian)(1438)的(de)彌(mi)羅寶閣。閣高3層(ceng)，闊9間(jian)，飛檐翹角(jiao)，高聳云天，十分壯觀。所(suo)供神像，上(shang)層(ceng)是(shi)萬皇(huang)帝主，左右(you)配祀28星宿；底(di)層(ceng)是(shi)萬地帝主，左右(you)配祀60花甲星宿。露(lu)臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)尤(you)稱珍貴，轉角(jiao)處嵌(qian)有畫像石(shi)(shi)，一(yi)(yi)刻(ke)(ke)□爵(jue)祿來同(tong)像，一(yi)(yi)刻(ke)(ke)掛印(yin)封侯像，另一(yi)(yi)面刻(ke)(ke)有八蠻(man)進寶圖(tu)。露(lu)臺(tai)扶欄亦有精(jing)美石(shi)(shi)雕，古氣磅礴，與山(shan)東(dong)武梁祠、郭巨墓(mu)漢畫石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)，神態(tai)逼肖，當為晉(jin)寧道院(yuan)或唐開元(yuan)宮(gong)之(zhi)(zhi)舊(jiu)物。如此一(yi)(yi)座堪(kan)稱蘇州樓(lou)閣之(zhi)(zhi)最(zui)的(de)古建筑， 卻不(bu)幸毀于民國元(yuan)年(nian)(1912)8月28日晚的(de)一(yi)(yi)場至今(jin)原因(yin)不(bu)明的(de)大(da)火之(zhi)(zhi)中。

葉圣陶在失(shi)火(huo)(huo)當日(ri)日(ri)記中記云(yun)：“入夜，紅(hong)光燭(zhu)天，人(ren)聲喧沓，開(kai)門而(er)(er)望之，在余家西北面，繼而(er)(er)鑼聲四(si)應矣(yi)(yi)(yi)。后知燒去者(zhe)為(wei)觀里(li)(li)彌羅寶閣。此閣年(nian)代極古，工程至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)鉅且精。偌大建筑物付之一(yi)(yi)炬，殊可(ke)惜，且守者(zhe)止一(yi)(yi)二人(ren)，石柱堅墻何致起(qi)火(huo)(huo)？即(ji)著火(huo)(huo)亦(yi)何致全毀？一(yi)(yi)般迷信家恐又(you)將造(zao)出許多神話也(ye)。”翌日(ri)葉至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)現場(chang)察看后于日(ri)記中寫(xie)道：“晨至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)頡剛處(chu)，幾(ji)伊亦(yi)來，乃偕赴觀里(li)(li)觀火(huo)(huo)場(chang)劫場(chang)。可(ke)憐莊嚴宮殿只剩(sheng)碎(sui)瓦殘灰，神鬼(gui)威力果何在哉！亦(yi)可(ke)稍示迷信家矣(yi)(yi)(yi)。然(ran)觀里(li)(li)為(wei)吳中名勝，遠道來游(you)者(zhe)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)多，故觀里(li)(li)商(shang)業亦(yi)為(wei)蘇地冠，從此或將冷落矣(yi)(yi)(yi)。入訪(fang)詢起(qi)火(huo)(huo)原由，亦(yi)云(yun)不可(ke)得知，徒(tu)知先有(you)火(huo)(huo)在第(di)二層，而(er)(er)第(di)二層樓(lou)則常(chang)閉(bi)者(zhe)也(ye)。”又(you)圣昌(chang)熾《緣督廬日(ri)記》壬子年(nian)七月十六日(ri)記云(yun)：“晚餐正(zheng)陳，陡聞樓(lou)上驚(jing)呼聲，一(yi)(yi)舉首則霄半(ban)有(you)光煜然(ran)，墻壁窗牖皆(jie)如(ru)倒景反射，再(zai)視則紅(hong)火(huo)(huo)燭(zhu)天矣(yi)(yi)(yi)。亟登樓(lou)視之，白煙(yan)蓬(peng)蓬(peng)而(er)(er)起(qi)，火(huo)(huo)星飛爆，如(ru)萬弩之齊(qi)發，寂無警笛耳輪，但(dan)聞膈膊聲。自夜七鐘半(ban)，焚至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)八鐘半(ban)始(shi)熄。”偌大一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)樓(lou)閣化為(wei)灰燼。是失(shi)火(huo)(huo)？還(huan)是縱火(huo)(huo)？至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)今仍是謎(mi)。

中山(shan)堂即在彌羅寶閣原址(zhi)建造(zao)，現為(wei)影劇公司占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙觀三(san)清殿于1982年(nian)2月列為全國重點文物保護單位。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)極盛時(shi)有(you)(you)殿宇30余座(zuo)(zuo)，是(shi)當時(shi)全國(guo)最(zui)大(da)的(de)道(dao)觀(guan)(guan)。現有(you)(you)山門、主殿（三清(qing)殿）、副 殿（彌(mi)羅寶(bao)閣）及21座(zuo)(zuo)配殿。 山門雄偉高(gao)聳，上懸康熙帝(di)御筆賜額“圓(yuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)”。南宋(song)淳熙 六(liu)年（1179年）重建(jian)的(de)主殿三清(qing)殿面闊9間(jian)，進深6間(jian)，高(gao)約(yue)30米(mi)， 建(jian)筑面積1125平(ping)方米(mi)，重檐歇山，巍峨壯麗，是(shi)江南一(yi)(yi)帶現存最(zui) 大(da)的(de)宋(song)代木構建(jian)筑。殿中須彌(mi)座(zuo)(zuo)上供高(gao)17米(mi)泥塑貼金的(de)3尊(zun)(zun)(zun)神像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)， 正中是(shi)元始天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)，兩旁是(shi)靈寶(bao)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)和道(dao)德天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)，俗稱三清(qing)。神像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang) 高(gao)大(da)莊(zhuang)嚴，是(shi)宋(song)代道(dao)教塑像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)中的(de)上品(pin)。三清(qing)中道(dao)德天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)又稱太上 老(lao)君，傳為老(lao)子(zi)(zi)李耳。其(qi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)座(zuo)(zuo)有(you)(you)老(lao)君像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)石刻(ke)，為唐吳道(dao)子(zi)(zi)繪像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，唐玄宗題贊，顏(yan)真卿(qing)書，由宋(song)代刻(ke)石高(gao)手張(zhang)允迪摹(mo)刻(ke)，可稱“四 絕(jue)”碑，是(shi)目前(qian)國(guo)內僅存的(de)兩塊老(lao)子(zi)(zi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)碑之一(yi)(yi)。 三清(qing)殿西山墻有(you)(you)60根(gen)大(da)青(qing)石六(liu)面柱，每面刻(ke)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，共 刻(ke)360天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，合周(zhou)年數。 玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)前(qian)一(yi)(yi)條街(jie)名觀(guan)(guan)前(qian)街(jie)，為蘇州的(de)主要(yao)商業(ye)街(jie)之一(yi)(yi)。

三清殿

三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)玄妙觀正殿(dian)(dian)，南宋(song)淳熙六(liu)年(1179)重建(jian)。重檐(yan)歇山造(zao)，面(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)(jian)，廣(guang)45.64米(mi)(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)6間(jian)(jian)(jian)，深(shen)(shen)25.25米(mi)(mi)，通高約27米(mi)(mi)，面(mian)(mian)闊與(yu)(yu)進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)之比為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)排列(lie)，縱橫成(cheng)行，內(nei)(nei)外一(yi)致，共有(you)7列(lie)，每列(lie)10柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)， 無“減柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”或“移柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱“滿(man)堂柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”。四(si)(si)周檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)八(ba)角石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共30根；殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)諸柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)除(chu)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中(zhong)央(yang)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)4根后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)抹角石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)外，均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共 36根。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)(chu)均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)連磉有(you)唇覆(fu)盆(pen)式(shi)(shi)，檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)(chu)上(shang)(shang)再施仿木(mu)質八(ba)角形(xing)石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)腳(jiao)，殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)則(ze)于礎(chu)(chu)上(shang)(shang)加(jia)(jia)石(shi)鼓。下(xia)檐(yan)斗(dou)拱(gong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)四(si)(si)鋪(pu)單(dan)昂(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)的下(xia)緣向上(shang)(shang)微微反曲(qu)。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)嘴(zui)實為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)檐(yan)華(hua)拱(gong)的延長，其(qi)上(shang)(shang)承月(yue)梁。梁頭伸出作(zuo)(zuo)耍(shua)頭，斫作(zuo)(zuo)宋(song)式(shi)(shi)梢頭。補(bu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)皆用(yong)(yong)(yong)真昂(ang)(ang)，后(hou)尾挑起，以承托下(xia)平西(xi)方(fang)槫下(xia)的令拱(gong)，即(ji)《營(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》上(shang)(shang)的“飛昂(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭與(yu)(yu)補(bu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)均(jun)(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)重昂(ang)(ang)，結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)完(wan)全一(yi)致，但(dan)僅為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)華(hua)拱(gong)前(qian)端做(zuo)出假昂(ang)(ang)，其(qi)后(hou)并無昂(ang)(ang)挑起的杠桿作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)。至于內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)拱(gong)，則(ze)于重抄之上(shang)(shang)，前(qian)后(hou)兩面(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)“上(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)”成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)重抄上(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)斗(dou)拱(gong)”結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國(guo)內(nei)(nei)孤例。在櫨(lu)斗(dou)兩側，結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)完(wan)全對稱，較(jiao)《營(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》所載上(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)做(zuo)法更為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)簡化(hua)。又內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)內(nei)(nei)轉(zhuan)角鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)，在后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)都(dou)用(yong)(yong)(yong)插拱(gong)，即(ji)以丁頭拱(gong)插于柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)，無櫨(lu)斗(dou)，亦(yi)此(ci)殿(dian)(dian)斗(dou)拱(gong)重要特(te)征，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國(guo)內(nei)(nei)現存(cun)最(zui)古(gu)(gu)實例。內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)拱(gong)之上(shang)(shang)，更施平棋，殿(dian)(dian)的梁架(jia)結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)，外槽(cao)梁架(jia)先施順(shun)木(mu)伏 串，次于柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)架(jia)月(yue)梁，復用(yong)(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)梁上(shang)(shang)又施櫨(lu)斗(dou)， 置十字交叉(cha)令拱(gong)，承上(shang)(shang)層月(yue)梁與(yu)(yu)槫下(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭枋。結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)與(yu)(yu)《營(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》亦(yi)能符合。內(nei)(nei)額除(chu)中(zhong)央(yang)四(si)(si)縫外，都(dou)于其(qi)下(xia)另加(jia)(jia)上(shang)(shang)枋，二者之間(jian)(jian)(jian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)。殿(dian)(dian)的內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中(zhong)央(yang)5間(jian)(jian)(jian)后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，筑磚壁達內(nei)(nei)額下(xia)皮(pi)，壁前(qian)有(you)磚砌須彌座， 面(mian)(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)(jian)，高1.75米(mi)(mi)，式(shi)(shi)樣略如《營(ying)造(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》而(er)繁密過之。 上(shang)(shang)奉三清(qing)(qing)像(xiang)，趺坐于方(fang)座上(shang)(shang)，像(xiang)高約6米(mi)(mi)，高于地(di)面(mian)(mian)約10.5米(mi)(mi)，神態(tai)凝重， 衣褶(zhe)生(sheng)動，是古(gu)(gu)代道教造(zao)像(xiang)中(zhong)的上(shang)(shang)品。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)嵌(qian)有(you)碑石(shi)多方(fang)， 以南宋(song)寶(bao)慶元(yuan)年(1225)所刻“太上(shang)(shang)老君像(xiang)”最(zui)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)珍貴，像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)唐代吳道子(zi)所繪，形(xing)貌蒼褶(zhe)流暢，上(shang)(shang)方(fang)有(you)顏(yan)真卿所書唐玄宗(zong)李隆基的“贊”四(si)(si)言十六(liu)句，刻工(gong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)張(zhang)允(yun)迪。三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)臺基面(mian)(mian)闊49.6米(mi)(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)29.5米(mi)(mi)，現高出周圍地(di)面(mian)(mian)約1 米(mi)(mi)。前(qian)施月(yue)臺，面(mian)(mian)闊27.2米(mi)(mi)，進(jin)(jin)深(shen)(shen)16.3米(mi)(mi)，中(zhong)央(yang)立鐵鼎(ding)。正面(mian)(mian)與(yu)(yu)左、右各踏跺，周以青石(shi)勾欄。臺基僅南面(mian)(mian)東、西(xi)梢間(jian)(jian)(jian)及盡間(jian)(jian)(jian)有(you)石(shi)欄，與(yu)(yu)月(yue)臺石(shi)欄貫通，華(hua)版雕刻極(ji)細，內(nei)(nei)容有(you)人物、走獸、飛禽、水(shui)族、山水(shui)、云樹、亭閣等，頗(po)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)古(gu)(gu)樸生(sheng)動，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)宋(song)或宋(song)以前(qian)作(zuo)(zuo)品。三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)是江蘇最(zui)古(gu)(gu)的木(mu)結(jie)構(gou)(gou)(gou)建(jian)筑，也是國(guo)內(nei)(nei)現存(cun)體量(liang)最(zui)大的宋(song)代大殿(dian)(dian)。

正山門

正山(shan)門(men)位于(yu)三清(qing)殿南約80米處(chu)，清(qing)乾隆四十年(1775)重建。重檐歇山(shan)造(zao)，面(mian)闊5間，廣20米，進深12米，于(yu)當心(xin)間脊柱間設斷砌門(men)。

如意門

如意(yi)門(men)(西腳門(men))內的(de)雷尊(zun)殿初(chu)名(ming)雷神(shen)蓼，亦為坐北(bei)朝南的(de)重(zhong)檐(yan)歇山式建筑(zhu)，明天(tian)順二年(1458)建，清(qing)康熙(xi)四(si)年(1665)重(zhong)修，面闊3間，廣16米，進深(shen)14米，前加卷棚(peng)頂(ding)軒廊(lang)3間，與下(xia)檐(yan)形成勾連搭(da)屋頂(ding)，通進深(shen)21米，梁架(jia)結構及柱礎制均有(you)明代特征，殿南尚(shang)存山門(men)3間。此外，觀內現存殿閣(ge)，東(dong)有(you)財神(shen)殿、天(tian)醫(yi)藥王殿、火神(shen)殿、三清(qing)殿、斗(dou)姆(mu)閣(ge)等，西有(you)觀音殿、三官殿等，北(bei)有(you)蓑衣(yi)真人殿、方丈(zhang)殿等，多數(shu)為晚清(qing)重(zhong)建。

保存在(zai)觀內碑(bei)刻有數十種，上起宋代，下迄清末(mo)。

通神先生何蓑衣(yi)(yi)事實(shi)碑 在蓑衣(yi)(yi)真人(ren)殿。碑高1.55米、寬1.08米，胡(hu)袤撰(zhuan)，宋(song)孝宗脊題“通神庵(an)”三字，南宋(song)慶元三年(1197)刻(ke)石。

詔建三清大(da)殿(dian)上梁文碑 在(zai)祖師殿(dian)遺(yi)址碑廊。碑高1.62米、寬0.93米，南宋(song)淳熙(xi)八(ba)年(1181)龔頤正撰，嘉定十(shi)一(yi)年(1218)立(li)石，張(zhang)允迪刻，原在(zai)三清殿(dian)。

老君像碑(bei) 在頤正殿。碑(bei)高1.8米、寬0.91米，吳(wu)道子畫，唐玄宗李隆(long)基贊，顏真卿書，馮大同(tong)跋，張允迪刻，南宋寶慶元年(1225)立石(shi)。

朝旨蠲免(mian)天慶(qing)觀道正司科敷度(du)牒尚書省(sheng)札部符使帖碑 在三(san)清(qing)殿。高1.97米、寬1.08米，頂(ding)端抹角(jiao)，南宋端平(ping)元年(nian)(1234)立。

清理道教碑 在三清殿外(wai)東側。高6.5米、寬2.7米，方孝孺撰并書，明(ming)洪(hong)武中年(1371)立(li)，后方氏被誅，碑文被劃去，故俗稱無字碑。

重(zhong)修三清殿(dian)記碑 在火神殿(dian)南小弄內。高1.66米、寬0.9米，王進撰，衛(wei)靖書，張徽(hui)篆額，明宣德四年(1429)呂(lv)志清立石，左上角(jiao)殘(can)缺，碑文已漫(man)漶。

重修玄妙(miao)觀五岳樓記碑 現存祖(zu)師遺址碑廊。高(gao)1.15米、寬0.66米，李(li)杰(jie)撰，陳昌言刻，明弘治十(shi)六年(nian)(1503)立，原置東岳殿(dian)。

玄(xuan)妙觀三清殿至今已有(you)八(ba)百多年歷史，九開(kai)間的(de)(de)宏殿巍(wei)峨軒昂，原來(lai)說(shuo)是(shi)在江南(nan)(nan)絕無僅有(you)，后來(lai)文物專家羅哲文來(lai)蘇考察，說(shuo)是(shi)全國(guo)也沒有(you)這(zhe)樣巨(ju)大(da)的(de)(de)南(nan)(nan)宋建筑( 其氣勢只有(you)北京故宮的(de)(de)太和殿和曲阜孔廟大(da)成殿可與之相比、但這(zhe)些(xie)建筑的(de)(de)年代(dai)都(dou)遠(yuan)遠(yuan)晚于南(nan)(nan)宋)， 所(suo)以(yi)三清殿稱為(wei)國(guo)寶當之無愧！

集市特色

玄妙觀為(wei)全(quan)國著名道觀，又是歷史悠久(jiu)的(de)傳統(tong)集市。馮夢(meng)龍(long)《警世通言》無礙居(ju)士(shi)序中說(shuo)：“吾頃從玄妙觀聽說(shuo)《三國志》來。”說(shuo)明玄妙觀在明天啟年間已有(you)露天書場(chang)。至清代(dai)設(she)攤(tan)者日多，遂(sui)演變成為(wei)古城中心一處熱鬧的(de)集市，有(you)小吃、日用(yong)雜品、文具(ju)玩具(ju)、對聯字畫、花鳥魚(yu)蟲的(de)攤(tan)店(dian)以(yi)及醫卜星相、江湖(hu)雜耍等等，五花八(ba)門，不一而足。茲就昔日報刊所載30年代(dai)前后玄妙觀集市狀況略(lve)舉一二，以(yi)見其(qi)概(gai)貌。

小吃特色

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀的小吃，名目繁多，如(ru)小米子糖、灰湯(tang)粽(zong)、氽(tun)魷魚(yu)、熏魚(yu)、涼(liang)粉、藕粉、千張百(bai)頁(ye)、酒釀圓子、豆(dou)腐花(hua)、糖粥、梅花(hua)糕、海棠糕、焐酥豆(dou)、五(wu)香(xiang)茶葉(xie)蛋、雞(ji)鴨(ya)血湯(tang)，其余如(ru)面(mian)、小籠饅(man)頭、鍋貼、燒賣、餛飩、湯(tang)團(tuan)等等，應有(you)盡有(you)。著名的攤(tan)店(dian)(dian)，有(you)專售梨膏糖的文魁齋、觀振興(xing)面(mian)店(dian)(dian)、王源(yuan)興(xing)酒釀豆(dou)漿店(dian)(dian)、小有(you)天(tian)藕粉店(dian)(dian)、五(wu)芳齋、六芳齋、七芳齋等等，還有(you)百(bai)年以上歷史的三萬思、品芳兩家茶館。可以說玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀是蘇州小吃最為集(ji)中的地方。

年畫特色

三(san)清殿內是傳統的年畫(hua)市場，出(chu)售桃花塢出(chu)版的各種畫(hua)張，如神軸(zhou)、灶神、門(men)神、百壽圖(tu)、送子圖(tu)、鳳穿(chuan)牡丹、魚跳(tiao)龍門(men)、歲寒三(san)友、梅開五福、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀春秋、二十四(si)孝等(deng)等(deng)，民國以后上海的彩印(yin)美女(nv)圖(tu)、風(feng)景畫(hua)進入觀內，受到(dao)大眾歡迎。另有(you)對聯(lian)、立(li)軸(zhou)，并(bing)可請(qing)名家當場揮毫，其中(zhong)最著(zhu)名者(zhe)汪煥(huan)文(度)，自號“鄧(deng)尉山農”，在三(san)清殿書寫對聯(lian)數(shu)十年之久。

觀內空地經(jing)常演(yan)出各種江湖雜耍(shua)，有(you)變戲法(fa)、木偶戲、耍(shua)猴戲、西洋鏡、唱小熱(re)昏、賣拳頭、說(shuo)露(lu)天書等等。鑼鼓響(xiang)處，圍滿人群，熙熙攘攘，熱(re)鬧非(fei)凡(fan)。

醫卜星相更

醫卜星相更是(shi)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)一大(da)特(te)色(se)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)祖傳秘(mi)方、專治氣喘、癆疾(ji)、筋骨酸疼的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)江湖郎中，有(you)(you)(you)(you)撥牙的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)牙醫，有(you)(you)(you)(you)主(zhu)治跌打損傷的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傷科等等。遠(yuan)近聞(wen)名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)葛云(yun)彬、謝明(ming)德都(dou)曾在(zai)(zai)(zai)此(ci)掛牌設攤(tan)(tan)(tan)。算命、相面、測(ce)字的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)(ji)中在(zai)(zai)(zai)東腳(jiao)門(men)(men)至牛角浜一路，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)當街設一桌(zhuo)一椅，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)設館，總稱(cheng)“巾(jin)(jin)行”，七十二(er)巾(jin)(jin)可謂樣(yang)樣(yang)齊全。有(you)(you)(you)(you)量手曰(yue)“量巾(jin)(jin)”，鳥(niao)銜(xian)設牌曰(yue)“鳥(niao)巾(jin)(jin)”，拉胡琴曰(yue)“夾絲巾(jin)(jin)”，敲搭板小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)鑼曰(yue)“響巾(jin)(jin)”，相面曰(yue)“斬盤搶巾(jin)(jin)”，批八字曰(yue)“八黑”，搖課(ke)曰(yue)“圓頭”，拆(chai)字曰(yue)“小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)黑”，瞎子(zi)摸(mo)牌曰(yue)“觀(guan)梅”。相面有(you)(you)(you)(you)手相、摸(mo)骨相等幾種，以(yi)(yi)一鑒明(ming)(真(zhen)名(ming)(ming)張(zhang)子(zi)芳)、朱少卿(qing)最為有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。相面兼(jian)算命的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)四明(ming)山人(ren)、王一舟等。算命兼(jian)堪輿(風(feng)水(shui)、 地理(li)(li)、流年(nian)、合婚)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)，以(yi)(yi)楊(yang)鳳巢、蔣通天(tian)、凌(ling)云(yun)山、楊(yang)守成(cheng)、 鄒慕鴻(hong)等為主(zhu)。拆(chai)字的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)談(tan)虎(hu)臣、張(zhang)天(tian)良(liang)等。起課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)文(wen)王課(ke)、六壬課(ke)，以(yi)(yi)明(ming)如鏡為有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)。還(huan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)鴻(hong)運(yun)來(真(zhen)名(ming)(ming)泊(bo)良(liang))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)龜測(ce)字，他把事(shi)先用膠水(shui)寫好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字條，放在(zai)(zai)(zai)置有(you)(you)(you)(you)烏(wu)賊骨粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)龜殼內(nei)，搖動(dong)幾下(xia)便(bian)顯出字跡(ji)，以(yi)(yi)此(ci)吸引好奇(qi)者(zhe)。他們(men)或(huo)取(qu)號“賽(sai)諸(zhu)葛”、“小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)神(shen)仙”，或(huo)自稱(cheng)“能知過去(qu)未來，善斷吉兇禍福”，舉凡男女婚配、家(jia)庭糾紛、生老(lao)病死、官運(yun)財(cai)氣均是(shi)他們(men)測(ce)算的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍。俗話說(shuo)“江湖一點(dian)訣，莫對妻(qi)子(zi)說(shuo)，若(ruo)對妻(qi)子(zi)說(shuo)，飯(fan)都(dou)沒(mei)得吃！”然(ran)而，明(ming)明(ming)是(shi)迷信騙局，卻有(you)(you)(you)(you)無數人(ren)找(zhao)到(dao)他們(men)尋求慰藉(jie)，直到(dao)解(jie)放后(hou)他們(men)才由政府安(an)排轉業。以(yi)(yi)上所(suo)述說(shuo)明(ming)，由于玄妙(miao)觀(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史和地理(li)(li)條件，使它成(cheng)為與(yu)北京天(tian)橋(qiao)、南京夫子(zi)廟、上海老(lao)城隍(huang)廟齊名(ming)(ming)而又具(ju)有(you)(you)(you)(you)蘇(su)州地方特(te)色(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場所(suo)。蘇(su)州人(ren)常說(shuo)“白相玄妙(miao)觀(guan)”，外地人(ren)到(dao)蘇(su)州也必至玄妙(miao)觀(guan)一游，這(zhe)已經(jing)成(cheng)為人(ren)們(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)共識。隨(sui)著時(shi)代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發(fa)展，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)也在(zai)(zai)(zai)不斷發(fa)生變化(hua)，但它既是(shi)古跡(ji)名(ming)(ming)勝，又為傳統(tong)集(ji)(ji)市的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這(zhe)一基本性質和特(te)點(dian)，始終未變，1956年(nian)，對玄妙(miao)觀(guan)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)販(fan)進行整(zheng)理(li)(li)，保持了小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃為主(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傳統(tong)特(te)色(se)。“文(wen)化(hua)大(da)革(ge)命”期間(jian)，取(qu)消玄妙(miao)觀(guan)集(ji)(ji)市。1979年(nian)12月(yue)，江蘇(su)省12市、縣糖果評(ping)展會在(zai)(zai)(zai)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)舉辦，隨(sui)后(hou)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、服(fu)裝攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、雜貨(huo)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)及縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)(tan)擁塞觀(guan)內(nei)，成(cheng)為蘇(su)州恢復的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)(ji)市。經(jing)多(duo)年(nian)整(zheng)理(li)(li)和規劃，建起統(tong)一規格的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)售(shou)貨(huo)亭(ting)，西腳(jiao)門(men)(men)甬道(dao)南段設20多(duo)個(ge)傳統(tong)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃亭(ting)，北段有(you)(you)(you)(you)10多(duo)個(ge)縫(feng)紉攤(tan)(tan)(tan)；東腳(jiao)門(men)(men)南段為服(fu)裝售(shou)貨(huo)亭(ting)，北段為修補皮匠(jiang)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)點(dian)；三清殿后(hou)興起漁網漁具(ju)市場。1985年(nian)，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)內(nei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)157個(ge)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元（寺觀覽勝）；15元（姑蘇道教仙(xian)樂(le)）；10元（道教飛鈸表演）。

公交：

乘坐1、102、146、178、202、502到(dao)觀(guan)前(qian)街（東、西(xi)或樂橋）后，步行至(zhi)街中段的玄妙觀(guan)內。

交通信息

可乘(cheng)游1東(dong)線(xian)到玄妙觀(guan)站(zhan)下車(che)，或(huo)乘(cheng)2線(xian) 、1路(lu)、101路(lu)、38路(lu)等到觀(guan)前街站(zhan)下車(che)。