中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山是(shi)(shi)魚米之(zhi)鄉(xiang),水(shui)稻(dao)種植(zhi)面(mian)積(ji)大,田(tian)里(li)當然也(ye)少不(bu)了禾(he)(he)(he)蟲。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山水(shui)鄉(xiang)坦(tan)洲,不(bu)僅以咸水(shui)歌(ge)聞名(ming),那(nei)里(li)的(de)(de)風味(wei)小食(shi)禾(he)(he)(he)蟲也(ye)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)大特(te)產,各(ge)種烹制方法層出不(bu)窮,令每一(yi)位食(shi)客(ke)駐足(zu)留步。踏(ta)人(ren)農歷九月,大量的(de)(de)禾(he)(he)(he)蟲出現,引得各(ge)路食(shi)輯(ji)奔赴坦(tan)洲,特(te)意品嘗那(nei)里(li)的(de)(de)禾(he)(he)(he)蟲特(te)色菜肴。禾(he)(he)(he)蟲,很多人(ren)都知道是(shi)(shi)水(shui)稻(dao)田(tian)淤(yu)(yu)泥中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)野生的(de)(de)一(yi)種軟體小蟲,分布于珠江口(kou)各(ge)地咸淡水(shui)交界處的(de)(de)稻(dao)田(tian)、淤(yu)(yu)泥中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),繁殖時(shi)才出泥面(mian)。禾(he)(he)(he)蟲含豐(feng)富(fu)的(de)(de)蛋(dan)白質、脂(zhi)肪、鐵、磷和(he)各(ge)種維生素,營(ying)養價值高,其(qi)味(wei)鮮美甘(gan)香、性溫,能(neng)補脾、暖胃(wei)、生血、利(li)小便、去(qu)腳氣,屬滋補食(shi)療上品,城鄉(xiang)居(ju)民(min)歷來喜(xi)愛(ai),視之(zhi)為席上佳肴。
中山(shan)人(ren)(ren)以(yi)及廣東人(ren)(ren)吃禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)的(de)風氣由來已(yi)久。明末廣東大(da)詩人(ren)(ren)屈翁山(shan)的(de)《廣東新語》已(yi)經盛(sheng)贊禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)的(de)滋味(wei),并稱鄉下有禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)阜,為地(di)主惡霸(ba)爭持侵奪的(de)目標。“夏(xia)暑雨,禾(he)(he)中蒸(zheng)郁而(er)生蟲(chong)(chong)(chong),或稻(dao)根(gen)腐而(er)生蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)。稻(dao)根(gen)色(se)(se)黃(huang),禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)者稻(dao)根(gen)所化,故色(se)(se)黃(huang),大(da)者如著(zhu)(筷(kuai)子)許,長至丈,節(jie)節(jie)有口,生青(qing)熟紅黃(huang)。霜降前(qian),禾(he)(he)熟則(ze)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)亦(yi)熟,以(yi)初一二及十五六(liu),乘大(da)潮斷(duan)節(jie)而(er)出,浮游田上,網取之,得(de)醋則(ze)白漿自出,以(yi)白米泔濾過,蒸(zheng)為膏,甘美益人(ren)(ren),蓋(gai)得(de)稻(dao)之精華者也(ye)。其腌為脯作(zuo)西醬者,則(ze)貧者之食也(ye)。”
禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)在(zai)珠江三角洲(zhou)一向被視作盤中(zhong)(zhong)佳(jia)肴,受到(dao)眾多食客(ke)的青睞,但(dan)要(yao)說服外(wai)省的老友(you)吃禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)還是有(you)(you)一點難(nan)度(du)的,況且本地也有(you)(you)些老友(you)不(bu)太愛吃。禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)可以煎、煮、蒸、燉。其中(zhong)(zhong)以瓦缽焗禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)最顯風(feng)味。而禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)蒸蛋、酥(su)炸(zha)禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)、禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)湯(tang)等等也都滋味十足,令人回味無窮。
【藥名】禾蟲
【別名】沙(sha)蟲、沙(sha)蠶、海蝗蚓
【漢語拼音(yin)】he chong
【英文名】Standing grain worm
【拉(la)丁植(zhi)物(wu)動物(wu)礦物(wu)名】Tylorrhychus heterochaetus(Quatrefages).
【歸經】脾;胃(wei)經
【功效】補脾胃;益氣(qi)血;利水消腫
【考證(zheng)】出自(zi)《綱目拾遺》:禾(he)蟲,閩、廣(guang)、浙沿海(hai)濱多(duo)有(you)之,形(xing)如蚯蚓(yin),閩人(ren)以(yi)(yi)蒸蛋食,或(huo)作膏食,餉客(ke)為(wei)饈,云食之補脾健(jian)胃。《廣(guang)志(zhi)》,夏(xia)暑(shu)雨,禾(he)中蒸郁而(er)生蟲,或(huo)稻根腐而(er)生蟲。大(da)者如箸(zhu)許,長至丈,節(jie)節(jie)有(you)口,生青,熟(shu)紅黃,霜(shuang)降前禾(he)熟(shu),則蟲亦(yi)熟(shu)。以(yi)(yi)初一、二(er)及十五、六乘大(da)潮斷節(jie)而(er)出,浮游田上,網(wang)取之。得醋則白(bai)漿自(zi)出,以(yi)(yi)白(bai)米泔濾過,蒸為(wei)膏,甘美益人(ren)。
【科屬分類】沙蠶(can)科
【主(zhu)治】脾(pi)胃虛(xu)弱;泄瀉;貧血;水腫
【用(yong)法用(yong)量(liang)】內(nei)服(fu):煎湯,5-10條(tiao)。
【出處(chu)】《中(zhong)華本草》
禾蟲(chong)的(de)吃法有多種,有燉缽(bo)仔禾蟲(chong)、生(sheng)炒禾蟲(chong)、煲(bao)禾蟲(chong)蓮藕眉(mei)豆湯等(deng),而中山(shan)人(ren)的(de)燉缽(bo)仔禾蟲(chong),風味十足,最(zui)受食客喜(xi)愛(ai)。
缽(bo)仔(zi)禾蟲(chong)的(de)做法并(bing)不是(shi)很(hen)復雜(za)。將禾蟲(chong)洗(xi)干凈后(hou)放在(zai)缽(bo)仔(zi)里(li)剪(jian)(jian)碎讓禾蟲(chong)充分出漿,再加(jia)上(shang)(shang)適特搗碎的(de)蒜蓉、陳皮、粉(fen)絲、蛋白、欖角和油(you)(you)、鹽等調味(wei)拌勻,放缽(bo)于鍋中(zhong)隔(ge)水(shui)燉熟,再將缽(bo)仔(zi)禾蟲(chong)移至慢(man)火(huo)炭(tan)爐(lu)或電爐(lu)上(shang)(shang)烘至干水(shui)有焦(jiao)香(xiang)味(wei)即可上(shang)(shang)桌;也有人先把洗(xi)干凈的(de)禾蟲(chong)放在(zai)花(hua)生(sheng)油(you)(you)里(li)面(mian),讓禾蟲(chong)喝飽油(you)(you),然(ran)后(hou)打幾(ji)個雞蛋到(dao)缽(bo)中(zhong),這(zhe)時才將禾蟲(chong)剪(jian)(jian)碎,再把各種(zhong)配(pei)科加(jia)在(zai)一(yi)起(qi)(qi)攪拌,然(ran)后(hou)放鍋中(zhong)燉,最(zui)后(hou)把瓦(wa)缽(bo)架到(dao)風爐(lu)上(shang)(shang),用炭(tan)烘起(qi)(qi)瓦(wa)缽(bo),把禾蟲(chong)慢(man)慢(man)烘干水(shui)分。這(zhe)道缽(bo)仔(zi)禾蟲(chong)吃(chi)起(qi)(qi)來外(wai)面(mian)一(yi)層(ceng)有點(dian)脆,甚至還(huan)有一(yi)點(dian)焦(jiao)的(de)香(xiang)味(wei),吃(chi)到(dao)里(li)面(mian)是(shi)滑滑的(de),很(hen)鮮(xian)美,但一(yi)點(dian)都不油(you)(you)膩。