中(zhong)山是(shi)魚米(mi)之(zhi)鄉,水(shui)稻(dao)種(zhong)(zhong)植面積大(da),田(tian)里(li)(li)當然(ran)也少不了禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)。中(zhong)山水(shui)鄉坦洲,不僅(jin)以(yi)咸(xian)水(shui)歌聞(wen)名,那里(li)(li)的(de)(de)風味(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)食禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)也是(shi)一(yi)(yi)大(da)特(te)產,各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)烹制方法層(ceng)出不窮,令每一(yi)(yi)位食客(ke)駐足留步。踏人農歷九月,大(da)量的(de)(de)禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)出現,引得各(ge)路(lu)食輯奔赴坦洲,特(te)意品(pin)嘗那里(li)(li)的(de)(de)禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)特(te)色(se)菜肴。禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong),很多人都知道是(shi)水(shui)稻(dao)田(tian)淤泥(ni)中(zhong)野(ye)生的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)軟體小(xiao)(xiao)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong),分(fen)布(bu)于珠江口各(ge)地咸(xian)淡水(shui)交界處的(de)(de)稻(dao)田(tian)、淤泥(ni)中(zhong),繁(fan)殖時才(cai)出泥(ni)面。禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)含豐富的(de)(de)蛋白質、脂(zhi)肪(fang)、鐵、磷和各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)維生素(su),營養價值高(gao),其味(wei)鮮美(mei)甘香、性溫,能補脾(pi)、暖胃、生血、利小(xiao)(xiao)便、去腳氣,屬滋補食療上品(pin),城鄉居(ju)民(min)歷來喜(xi)愛,視之(zhi)為(wei)席上佳肴。
中山(shan)人以(yi)及廣東(dong)(dong)人吃禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)的風氣(qi)由來已久。明末(mo)廣東(dong)(dong)大(da)詩人屈翁山(shan)的《廣東(dong)(dong)新語》已經(jing)盛贊禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)的滋味,并稱(cheng)鄉(xiang)下有禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)阜(fu),為(wei)地主惡霸爭持侵(qin)奪的目標。“夏暑雨,禾(he)(he)中蒸郁而生蟲(chong)(chong)(chong),或稻(dao)(dao)根(gen)腐而生蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)。稻(dao)(dao)根(gen)色黃,禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)者(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)稻(dao)(dao)根(gen)所化,故色黃,大(da)者(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)如著(筷子(zi))許,長至丈,節(jie)節(jie)有口,生青熟紅黃。霜降前,禾(he)(he)熟則蟲(chong)(chong)(chong)亦熟,以(yi)初一(yi)二及十五六(liu),乘(cheng)大(da)潮斷節(jie)而出,浮游(you)田上,網取之(zhi),得醋(cu)則白漿(jiang)自出,以(yi)白米泔濾(lv)過(guo),蒸為(wei)膏,甘(gan)美(mei)益人,蓋得稻(dao)(dao)之(zhi)精華(hua)者(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)也。其腌為(wei)脯作西醬者(zhe)(zhe)(zhe),則貧者(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)之(zhi)食也。”
禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)在珠江三(san)角洲(zhou)一向被(bei)視(shi)作盤中佳肴,受到眾多食客的青睞,但要說服外省的老友(you)(you)吃禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)還是有一點難度的,況且(qie)本(ben)地也(ye)有些老友(you)(you)不太愛(ai)吃。禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)可(ke)以(yi)煎、煮、蒸、燉。其中以(yi)瓦缽焗禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)最顯風味(wei)。而禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)蒸蛋、酥炸禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)、禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)湯等等也(ye)都滋味(wei)十足,令(ling)人回(hui)味(wei)無(wu)窮。
【藥名】禾蟲
【別名(ming)】沙蟲、沙蠶、海蝗(huang)蚓
【漢語拼(pin)音】he chong
【英文名】Standing grain worm
【拉丁植(zhi)物動物礦(kuang)物名】Tylorrhychus heterochaetus(Quatrefages).
【歸經】脾;胃(wei)經
【功效】補脾胃;益氣血;利水消腫
【考證】出(chu)自(zi)(zi)《綱目拾遺》:禾蟲,閩(min)、廣(guang)、浙(zhe)沿海濱多有之(zhi),形(xing)如(ru)蚯蚓(yin),閩(min)人(ren)以蒸(zheng)(zheng)蛋食(shi),或作膏食(shi),餉客為饈,云食(shi)之(zhi)補脾健(jian)胃(wei)。《廣(guang)志》,夏暑雨(yu),禾中蒸(zheng)(zheng)郁而生蟲,或稻(dao)根腐而生蟲。大者如(ru)箸許,長至丈,節(jie)節(jie)有口,生青,熟(shu)紅黃,霜(shuang)降前禾熟(shu),則(ze)蟲亦(yi)熟(shu)。以初(chu)一、二(er)及(ji)十五、六乘大潮斷節(jie)而出(chu),浮游(you)田(tian)上,網取(qu)之(zhi)。得醋(cu)則(ze)白漿(jiang)自(zi)(zi)出(chu),以白米泔濾過,蒸(zheng)(zheng)為膏,甘美益(yi)人(ren)。
【科屬分類】沙(sha)蠶科
【主治】脾(pi)胃虛(xu)弱;泄瀉;貧血(xue);水腫
【用法用量(liang)】內服:煎湯,5-10條。
【出處】《中(zhong)華(hua)本草》
禾蟲(chong)(chong)的(de)吃法有多種(zhong),有燉缽仔(zi)禾蟲(chong)(chong)、生炒禾蟲(chong)(chong)、煲(bao)禾蟲(chong)(chong)蓮藕眉豆湯等(deng),而中山人的(de)燉缽仔(zi)禾蟲(chong)(chong),風味(wei)十(shi)足(zu),最受食客喜愛。
缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲的做(zuo)法(fa)并不是很復(fu)雜。將(jiang)禾(he)蟲洗干凈(jing)(jing)后放(fang)(fang)在(zai)(zai)缽(bo)(bo)仔里(li)剪(jian)碎讓(rang)禾(he)蟲充分(fen)出漿(jiang),再(zai)加上(shang)適特搗(dao)碎的蒜蓉、陳(chen)皮、粉絲、蛋白、欖角和油、鹽等(deng)調味(wei)拌(ban)勻,放(fang)(fang)缽(bo)(bo)于(yu)鍋中隔水燉熟,再(zai)將(jiang)缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲移至慢火炭爐或(huo)電爐上(shang)烘至干水有焦香味(wei)即(ji)可上(shang)桌;也(ye)有人先把洗干凈(jing)(jing)的禾(he)蟲放(fang)(fang)在(zai)(zai)花生油里(li)面(mian),讓(rang)禾(he)蟲喝飽油,然后打幾個雞蛋到(dao)(dao)缽(bo)(bo)中,這(zhe)時才將(jiang)禾(he)蟲剪(jian)碎,再(zai)把各種配科(ke)加在(zai)(zai)一(yi)起(qi)(qi)攪拌(ban),然后放(fang)(fang)鍋中燉,最(zui)后把瓦(wa)缽(bo)(bo)架到(dao)(dao)風(feng)爐上(shang),用炭烘起(qi)(qi)瓦(wa)缽(bo)(bo),把禾(he)蟲慢慢烘干水分(fen)。這(zhe)道缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲吃起(qi)(qi)來外面(mian)一(yi)層有點(dian)脆,甚至還有一(yi)點(dian)焦的香味(wei),吃到(dao)(dao)里(li)面(mian)是滑滑的,很鮮美,但一(yi)點(dian)都不油膩(ni)。