永(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)即是湖北省紅(hong)(hong)安(an)縣永(yong)佳河鎮生產(chan)的特(te)色皮(pi)(pi)子(zi),永(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)因其味(wei)美(mei)香甜,肉厚香嫩而譽滿(man)紅(hong)(hong)安(an)乃至湖北,成為(wei)中(zhong)國(guo)第一(yi)將軍縣——湖北紅(hong)(hong)安(an)的一(yi)大特(te)產(chan),深(shen)受廣(guang)大紅(hong)(hong)安(an)人民的喜愛。2014年(nian)9月17日,紅(hong)(hong)安(an)縣“紅(hong)(hong)安(an)大布”“永(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)”兩個(ge)產(chan)品分別通過了國(guo)家地(di)理(li)標(biao)志保護產(chan)品技術審(shen)查。至此,紅(hong)(hong)安(an)被(bei)國(guo)家質量監督檢驗檢疫總(zong)局批準的地(di)理(li)標(biao)志產(chan)品總(zong)數達4個(ge)。
食品營養
1.永(yong)河皮子中含有豐富蛋(dan)(dan)白(bai)質,而且(qie)豆腐(fu)蛋(dan)(dan)白(bai)屬完全蛋(dan)(dan)白(bai),不僅含有人體必需(xu)的(de)8種氨基酸,而且(qie)其比(bi)例也接近人體需(xu)要,營養價值較高(gao);
2. 永河皮子(zi)中含(han)有(you)的卵磷脂(zhi)可(ke)除掉附在(zai)血管壁上的膽固醇,防止(zhi)血管硬化,預防心血管疾(ji)病,保護心臟(zang);
3. 永(yong)河(he)皮子中含有(you)多種礦物質(zhi)(zhi),補充鈣(gai)質(zhi)(zhi),防止因缺鈣(gai)引起(qi)的骨(gu)質(zhi)(zhi)疏松,促進骨(gu)骼(ge)發育(yu),對(dui)小兒(er)、老人的骨(gu) 骼(ge)生長極(ji)為有(you)利(li)。
生產制作
制作(zuo)永(yong)河(he)皮(pi)(pi)子要經過(guo)(guo)泡(pao)豆(dou)、磨豆(dou)、篩(shai)漿(jiang)、熬漿(jiang)、點(dian)漿(jiang)、收漿(jiang)、壓榨等22道工序,只有不怕紛繁(fan)復雜和勞心費力,才(cai)能做出好(hao)的皮(pi)(pi)子,從豆(dou)粒到(dao)豆(dou)漿(jiang),再到(dao)豆(dou)腐腦和千(qian)張(zhang)。新鮮皮(pi)(pi)子曬干后可(ke)長期存放,用水泡(pao)開(kai)即可(ke)食用,老百姓十分(fen)喜歡(huan)吃(chi),待客過(guo)(guo)節常買(mai)皮(pi)(pi)子作(zuo)為下酒佳(jia)肴(yao)。
永(yong)(yong)(yong)河(he)的(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)制作(zuo)簡單,主(zhu)要環節有四(si)種:一(yi)是浸(jin)豆(dou),將(jiang)豆(dou)浸(jin)泡(pao)在(zai)水(shui)里(li)(li),要將(jiang)豆(dou)浸(jin)得(de)圓飽飽的(de),再(zai)進行淘(tao)洗。二是磨豆(dou),傳統的(de)方(fang)法用(yong)(yong)(yong)石(shi)(shi)磨磨。金燦(can)燦(can)的(de)黃豆(dou)從磨眼灌進去,白花花的(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)從磨里(li)(li)雨柱般撒(sa)下(xia)來。如今,加(jia)工(gong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電磨,既(ji)省(sheng)力,又能保證豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)的(de)質(zhi)量。三(san)是點漿(jiang)(jiang),這是最關(guan)鍵的(de)一(yi)環,皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)、豆(dou)腐好壞在(zai)此一(yi)舉。豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)煮開后(hou),倒(dao)在(zai)缸(gang)(gang)里(li)(li),再(zai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)熟(shu)石(shi)(shi)膏水(shui)點漿(jiang)(jiang)。一(yi)手掇石(shi)(shi)膏盆,一(yi)手捏長把(ba)瓢,邊倒(dao)石(shi)(shi)膏水(shui),邊用(yong)(yong)(yong)瓢把(ba)在(zai)漿(jiang)(jiang)中(zhong)(zhong)攪動。涓涓細流(liu)(liu)流(liu)(liu)入缸(gang)(gang)中(zhong)(zhong),豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)如開水(shui)沸騰不止(zhi)。四(si)澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi),澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)關(guan)鍵是一(yi)個“澆(jiao)”字(zi)。首先(xian)將(jiang)干巴巴的(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)打在(zai)小桶里(li)(li),然(ran)后(hou)用(yong)(yong)(yong)竹把(ba)將(jiang)其搗亂,用(yong)(yong)(yong)碗舀(yao)到(dao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)廂里(li)(li),一(yi)碗水(shui)一(yi)張皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi),舀(yao)多舀(yao)少,是決定皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)薄厚干濕的(de)關(guan)鍵,因而(er)要把(ba)握火候。永(yong)(yong)(yong)佳河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)加(jia)工(gong)其妙(miao)在(zai)水(shui)中(zhong)(zhong)。大別(bie)山的(de)山泉,七拐(guai)八彎,源源不斷;流(liu)(liu)到(dao)永(yong)(yong)(yong)佳河(he)。河(he)水(shui)衛生清淳(chun),水(shui)質(zhi)適(shi)宜于皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)加(jia)工(gong)。是年,有位(wei)武(wu)漢(han)人(ren)來永(yong)(yong)(yong)佳河(he)做客,吃(chi)中(zhong)(zhong)了(le)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi),問其加(jia)工(gong)奧妙(miao),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)師傅(fu)曰:“其妙(miao)在(zai)水(shui)中(zhong)(zhong)”。之(zhi)后(hou),客人(ren)用(yong)(yong)(yong)車(che)裝幾桶水(shui)到(dao)武(wu)漢(han)加(jia)工(gong)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)果然(ran)不同(tong)凡響(xiang),別(bie)出(chu)一(yi)味。
食用指南
永河的皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)有(you)多種吃法(fa):生吃,鄉(xiang)下豆腐(fu)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)師傅最喜歡這種吃法(fa)。皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)剛(gang)剛(gang)從(cong)皮(pi)布上撕(si)下來,香(xiang)氣撲(pu)鼻,將其(qi)包點紅(hong)糖、蔥(cong)蒜之類,吃起來饒有(you)風(feng)味(wei)(wei)。炒(chao)吃,這是(shi)常見一(yi)種吃法(fa)。一(yi)般配上小白菜、菠(bo)菜等,盛在(zai)盤里,“一(yi)清二白”。煨吃,將皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)切(qie)成三角形(xing),配上豬排,再用沙罐煨烤。這種菜當地叫“皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)煲”,吃時皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)油(you)滴滴光亮亮,更是(shi)鮮(xian)嫩可(ke)口(kou)。“臭”吃。用適當的溫度,讓皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)發酵(jiao),過上三五天,揭開一(yi)看,皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)長(chang)出絨(rong)絨(rong)的白毛,發出誘人香(xiang)味(wei)(wei)。這種皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)將其(qi)炒(chao)吃,味(wei)(wei)道可(ke)口(kou),勝于魚肉。酥吃,將皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)切(qie)成菱(ling)形(xing),加鹽(yan)曬干(gan),便成“皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)果”。吃時用油(you)酥,脆口(kou)回味(wei)(wei),是(shi)早餐的好菜肴(yao)。
飲食文化
永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)俗稱永(yong)(yong)河千張,在(zai)北方稱為豆(dou)腐(fu)皮(pi),南(nan)方又(you)叫(jiao)百葉,屬豆(dou)制品。永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)歷史悠久,相傳豆(dou)腐(fu)乃漢代(dai)淮南(nan)王劉安所創,至今已有兩(liang)千多年。[2]在(zai)紅(hong)安縣一(yi)些(xie)地(di)方,一(yi)直流傳著過年“做皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)”的(de)習俗,“永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)”最(zui)具獨特(te)風(feng)味。春(chun)節(jie)臨近,永(yong)(yong)佳(jia)河鎮的(de)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)作坊又(you)開始熱(re)鬧(nao)起來,肉厚、香嫩(nen)的(de)“永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)”成為人們(men)團(tuan)年飯里的(de)一(yi)道特(te)色佳(jia)肴。