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歷史溯源

粽(zong)子(zi)是中國歷(li)史上文(wen)化積淀最深厚(hou)的(de)節日食品(pin)之一。一萬多年前，人(ren)類(lei)用(yong)植物葉(xie)子(zi)包裹食物原料(liao)通過“石烹法”煨(wei)煮成熟，這就(jiu)是粽(zong)子(zi)的(de)雛形。到了夏商周時(shi)，人(ren)們用(yong)植物葉(xie)子(zi)包裹黍(shu)(shu)米成牛角(jiao)狀替代(dai)黃(huang)牛作(zuo)為祭品(pin)，最早的(de)粽(zong)子(zi)——“角(jiao)黍(shu)(shu)”應(ying)運而生(sheng)。經過漫長的(de)歷(li)史演變，粽(zong)子(zi)的(de)品(pin)種逐漸豐富，制(zhi)作(zuo)技藝也日益成熟，成為江南民眾日常(chang)生(sheng)活中不可分(fen)割的(de)一部分(fen)，造就(jiu)了中國傳統點心(xin)文(wen)化中的(de)一朵奇葩(pa)。

民(min)國初年，浙江商人張錦(jin)泉在嘉興北大街孩兒(er)橋堍設攤賣粽子(zi)(zi)，因粽子(zi)(zi)外形和(he)口味獨(du)特而深(shen)受歡迎。1921年，張錦(jin)泉在城區張家弄口開了首家“五芳(fang)齋”粽子(zi)(zi)店，并憑借著精湛的(de)制作技藝(yi)逐漸(jian)馳名江南(nan)，被(bei)譽為(wei)“粽子(zi)(zi)大王”。在經(jing)歷了艱難(nan)的(de)戰爭年代(dai)和(he)文(wen)化(hua)大革命時期之后，改革開放使五芳(fang)齋粽子(zi)(zi)產業得到了迅速發(fa)展(zhan)。

制作工藝

五芳齋在粽子(zi)的包裹(guo)扎線工藝上(shang)仍然保留傳統手工技藝，按照初步造型(xing)、加(jia)(jia)部分(fen)料(liao)米、加(jia)(jia)餡(xian)、加(jia)(jia)料(liao)米、稱量、定型(xing)、裹(guo)扎的程序(xu)進行裹(guo)粽操作，要求(qiu)料(liao)米分(fen)兩(liang)次投放(fang)，投放(fang)量正確，內餡(xian)投放(fang)位(wei)置取中間(jian)，造型(xing)規(gui)范，四角端(duan)正，兩(liang)端(duan)大小(xiao)均(jun)勻，扎線按標準裹(guo)繞，松緊適(shi)當(dang)，成形的粽子(zi)無破損。

具體做法為(wei)：選用(yong)香(xiang)糯米(mi)，用(yong)溫水(shui)浸泡糯米(mi)2、3個(ge)小(xiao)時（期間撓1至2次，以便米(mi)更好(hao)浸透(tou)），用(yong)個(ge)小(xiao)簸箕或(huo)過(guo)(guo)濾(lv)籃濾(lv)干水(shui)分。 取瘦豬后(hou)(hou)(hou)腿肉把肉切成(cheng)塊狀(zhuang)，接(jie)下(xia)來放(fang)(fang)入(ru)調料并拌勻待(dai)用(yong)。 把粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)葉(xie)放(fang)(fang)水(shui)里(li)煮，水(shui)開10分鐘后(hou)(hou)(hou)即(ji)可取出冷水(shui)洗凈(jing)剪兩端(duan)多余后(hou)(hou)(hou)濾(lv)干。 把棉(mian)線剪若(ruo)干條，每(mei)條長約20cm。腿上（膝(xi)蓋處）放(fang)(fang)一(yi)(yi)條毛巾以備弄濕衣(yi)物(wu)。 取兩張(zhang)（均為(wei)反面）粽(zong)(zong)葉(xie)一(yi)(yi)頭(tou)一(yi)(yi)尾(wei)的反方向重疊(die)(die)（不完(wan)全），放(fang)(fang)入(ru)料米(mi)，用(yong)食(shi)指(zhi)在(zai)米(mi)中間輕輕劃(hua)一(yi)(yi)字，放(fang)(fang)入(ru)肉塊，再填米(mi)蓋住肉塊。右手先把外端(duan)粽(zong)(zong)葉(xie)往里(li)折疊(die)(die)并向后(hou)(hou)(hou)折去(qu)，包好(hao)一(yi)(yi)端(duan)再以同樣手法完(wan)成(cheng)另一(yi)(yi)端(duan)，綁粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)要(yao)先在(zai)中間綁一(yi)(yi)次后(hou)(hou)(hou)才從一(yi)(yi)端(duan)逐一(yi)(yi)綁向一(yi)(yi)端(duan)以防(fang)變形(xing)，繩子(zi)(zi)緊(jin)(jin)度不能過(guo)(guo)緊(jin)(jin)（煮爆）或(huo)過(guo)(guo)松(song)（進水(shui)），以輕扯(che)不移動即(ji)可。 綁好(hao)后(hou)(hou)(hou)逐一(yi)(yi)放(fang)(fang)到鍋里(li)，然后(hou)(hou)(hou)放(fang)(fang)入(ru)冷水(shui)滿過(guo)(guo)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)1cm左右，點火……水(shui)開15分鐘后(hou)(hou)(hou)把鍋里(li)上下(xia)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)兌換位置(zhi)，再以慢火煮上1小(xiao)時即(ji)可。

傳統五(wu)芳(fang)齋粽子(zi)使用(yong)鐵鍋、木制塘鍋、竹籃(lan)等器具，在(zai)土(tu)灶上燒粽子(zi)用(yong)桑柴燒煮(zhu)。

據五芳齋老(lao)員工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)姚九華回(hui)憶，五芳齋解放后工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)場(chang)、操(cao)用(yong)(yong)(yong)情(qing)況(kuang)主要有(you)：工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)作衣配(pei)(pei)圍(wei)身、印(yin)“五芳齋”字樣。當(dang)時店(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)無自來(lai)水，用(yong)(yong)(yong)水都由工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)從(cong)市(shi)河里挑(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)來(lai)，有(you)時用(yong)(yong)(yong)船(chuan)從(cong)薦橋河里到澤橋河（人(ren)民(min)公園處）駁進來(lai)。挑(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)來(lai)的(de)水存入大缸，用(yong)(yong)(yong)明礬沉淀待用(yong)(yong)(yong)。曾(ceng)經(jing)常見工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)在雨(yu)天身穿(chuan)蓑衣，箬帽穿(chuan)梭市(shi)井挑(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)水的(de)情(qing)景。燒(shao)粽子用(yong)(yong)(yong)桑柴，從(cong)東門(men)柴行買后人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)挑(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)回(hui)店(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)，有(you)時直接向農(nong)民(min)買。裝(zhuang)粽子用(yong)(yong)(yong)草(cao)篰（生、熟都用(yong)(yong)(yong)草(cao)部運(yun)來(lai)），送(song)分店(dian)(dian)(dian)、車站都人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)此篰挑(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)。堂吃粽子配(pei)(pei)以磁(ci)盤（小(xiao)碟子），顧客上(shang)門(men)配(pei)(pei)送(song)噴(pen)香水毛巾、送(song)茶。豆沙(sha)粽配(pei)(pei)細棉白糖。拌米(mi)、拌肉工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)具：用(yong)(yong)(yong)大餅(bing)店(dian)(dian)(dian)和面粉的(de)和面瓷缸人(ren)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)拌。燒(shao)粽用(yong)(yong)(yong)木制塘鍋。店(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)樓(lou)(lou)上(shang)放粽箬等雜物，郭(guo)士榮(rong)曾(ceng)住樓(lou)(lou)上(shang)。工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)人(ren)都回(hui)家(jia)住。

五芳齋對工藝要求嚴格。把握選(xuan)(xuan)料、操作、管理每一(yi)道(dao)程序的(de)細微(wei)末節，從而使(shi)每一(yi)個產品都達到了(le)設(she)計指標的(de)規范標準：糯(nuo)米(mi)粒飽糯(nuo)強；豬后腿肉純精、全肥；雞(ji)肉粽只用(yong)雄(xiong)雞(ji)；夾沙粽用(yong)“大紅(hong)袍”去(qu)皮取沙；板油肥厚去(qu)油皮；特曬醬(jiang)油拌(ban)米(mi)；細白鹽(yan)、上(shang)等白酒拌(ban)肉；選(xuan)(xuan)用(yong)天(tian)然(ran)野生箬葉(xie)包裹(guo)粽子，箬葉(xie)甜甘性涼，有舒郁、漿(jiang)濁、升滑、開膈、消(xiao)痰等功效(xiao)。故而造就保持(chi)了(le)五芳齋粽子的(de)上(shang)乘品質。

用料種類

五(wu)(wu)芳齋粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)博采中國各地(di)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)文化之長，集蘇(su)州豬油(you)細沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、廣州蛋黃(huang)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、蘭溪火腿(tui)肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)和嘉(jia)興粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)諸美之長，不(bu)斷(duan)研究(jiu)開(kai)發，花色(se)從最初的豬肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、夾沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等歷史傳統的數(shu)種，開(kai)始逐(zhu)漸增多。有蓮蓉原(yuan)味粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅袍豆(dou)(dou)沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠(lv)(lv)茶棗香(xiang)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅燒(shao)排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、經典(dian)鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、鮑(bao)汁牛(niu)柳粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干(gan)貝鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、甜豆(dou)(dou)棗泥(ni)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)(wu)花風肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、沙茶排骨粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、紅燒(shao)牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、兒童營養粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、飄(piao)香(xiang)堿(jian)水粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、彩豆(dou)(dou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、綠(lv)(lv)豆(dou)(dou)花生蓮子(zi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂花豆(dou)(dou)沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、桂花血糯栗(li)子(zi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、干(gan)菜(cai)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)(wu)花肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴席(xi)珍品鮮(xian)肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、宴席(xi)珍品干(gan)貝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、五(wu)(wu)花風肉(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等近百個品種。

按風味分

有南味(wei)粽(zong)(zong)，花色多、分(fen)甜咸味(wei)；北味(wei)粽(zong)(zong)，純米或加小棗、紅豆，甜口或蘸糖吃(chi)(chi)；西(xi)北粽(zong)(zong)，純米，澆蜂蜜(mi)涼吃(chi)(chi)。

按用料分

有①純米(mi)粽(zong)；②包餡粽(zong)，餡料(liao)有豆(dou)(dou)(dou)沙、棗泥、芝麻(ma)芽、蓮蓉(rong)、椰蓉(rong)等(deng)(deng)；③夾果粽(zong)，果料(liao)有棗、栗(li)、柿、銀杏、花生、蓮子、桂圓等(deng)(deng)；④豆(dou)(dou)(dou)粽(zong)，有紅(hong)豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、綠豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、蠶豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、豌豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、蕓豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、豇豆(dou)(dou)(dou)、黃(huang)豆(dou)(dou)(dou)等(deng)(deng)；⑤葷料(liao)粽(zong)，有豬肉(rou)、豬油、火(huo)腿、臘肉(rou)、叉燒肉(rou)、香腸、牛(niu)肉(rou)、雞肉(rou)、鴨肉(rou)、鵝(e)肉(rou)、鮮(xian)蛋(dan)、咸蛋(dan)、蝦米(mi)、干貝、淡菜等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)。

傳承意義

五芳齋粽子制作技藝具有極高(gao)的實用價(jia)值(zhi)、文(wen)化價(jia)值(zhi)和經濟價(jia)值(zhi)，其核心在于將老字(zi)號(hao)品牌文(wen)化和傳統(tong)技藝進行了完美結合，散(san)發出獨特的魅(mei)力。

保護措施

為(wei)了宣傳粽(zong)子文(wen)化，展示五(wu)芳齋(zhai)裹(guo)粽(zong)技藝，五(wu)芳齋(zhai)集(ji)團十(shi)分重視五(wu)芳齋(zhai)品牌及其文(wen)化保(bao)護建設，從集(ji)團決策(ce)層到一線(xian)經營部門，建立了專門機構開展工作，發掘、歸納、研究、總結、豐(feng)富、弘(hong)揚中華民(min)族的粽(zong)子文(wen)化。

在傳(chuan)承與發展(zhan)中，五芳齋人(ren)對傳(chuan)統(tong)制粽技(ji)藝在選料、配料、調味、包扎、蒸煮(zhu)等(deng)多道(dao)工序上十分(fen)講(jiang)究，精益求(qiu)精。保障(zhang)五芳齋品牌得到有效的維護和傳(chuan)播(bo)。

集團特別選拔(ba)組(zu)建了(le)第(di)一支粽藝師隊伍。首批參加(jia)培(pei)訓的9名(ming)粽藝師人(ren)選，除了(le)2名(ming)是專職的之外，其余7名(ming)全是從裹粽車間選出來的比較優秀的人(ren)選。

五芳齋對粽藝師進行企業(ye)概況(kuang)、粽子(zi)文(wen)化(hua)、粽子(zi)常識、媒(mei)體(ti)應訪(fang)、裹粽工(gong)藝、形(xing)體(ti)表演、解(jie)說訓練方(fang)面的培訓。粽藝師在產業(ye)園工(gong)業(ye)旅游區、賣(mai)場(chang)促銷場(chang)所(suo)、展銷會、各類民俗文(wen)化(hua)活動等場(chang)所(suo)從事粽藝表演和粽藝講解(jie)，宣傳五芳齋粽子(zi)的傳統文(wen)化(hua)，傳達(da)中(zhong)國粽子(zi)的悠長(chang)歷史，以專業(ye)的形(xing)象(xiang)面向社會。

五(wu)芳(fang)齋裹粽(zong)(zong)技藝表(biao)演隊在穗、滬、寧(ning)、甬、京等市(shi)的(de)(de)多場“絕活”出色(se)表(biao)演，既展示了(le)粽(zong)(zong)子文(wen)化的(de)(de)迷人魅力，同時也樹立了(le)五(wu)芳(fang)齋人的(de)(de)時代藝術形(xing)象，體現了(le)濃郁的(de)(de)中國粽(zong)(zong)子制作和傳(chuan)統飲食文(wen)化。

五芳齋一直為媒體所關注，近百(bai)家著名(ming)報(bao)刊、電視(shi)臺網絡等媒體的(de)(de)大(da)力(li)傳(chuan)播(bo)更(geng)(geng)凸現了五芳齋精(jing)神(shen)文化(hua)，由五芳齋發(fa)起并(bing)承(cheng)辦的(de)(de)首屆中國(guo)粽(zong)(zong)子文化(hua)節不僅展示(shi)了五芳齋的(de)(de)特殊(shu)魅力(li)，還推動了整個中國(guo)粽(zong)(zong)子產業的(de)(de)發(fa)展以及粽(zong)(zong)子在中國(guo)食品業中的(de)(de)影響力(li)。這一切使人們更(geng)(geng)加深化(hua)了對中華民族粽(zong)(zong)子這一中國(guo)歷史上文化(hua)積淀(dian)最深厚的(de)(de)傳(chuan)統食品的(de)(de)理(li)解。