遠觀景象
平(ping)陽鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)金、元、明(ming)(ming)、清皆重(zhong)修過,但樓(lou)(lou)(lou)體(ti)仍(reng)保持原建筑特點。樓(lou)(lou)(lou)的(de)平(ping)面呈正方形,四(si)邊各40米,面積1600平(ping)方米,通(tong)(tong)高40.5米。四(si)面沒回廊。基座(zuo)全用青磚砌(qi)筑,座(zuo)高八米,大中樓(lou)(lou)(lou)基座(zuo)券砌(qi)門洞,十(shi)字(zi)相交,通(tong)(tong)連四(si)條主街。門洞上方各嵌有依明(ming)(ming)萬歷三(san)十(shi)一(yi)年(1603年)原刻復制的(de)巨形石雕匾額,分別(bie)為(wei)“東(dong)臨雷霍”、“西(xi)控河(he)汾”、“南通(tong)(tong)秦蜀(shu)”、“北達幽并”。樓(lou)(lou)(lou)基東(dong)西(xi)兩(liang)側各建有門樓(lou)(lou)(lou),東(dong)曰(yue)“遠眺”,西(xi)曰(yue)“云(yun)梯”。入門樓(lou)(lou)(lou),沿級再登,拾(shi)級而上至中樓(lou)(lou)(lou)臺坪及中、上樓(lou)(lou)(lou)層,近觀遠眺,別(bie)有風光。大中樓(lou)(lou)(lou)門廳(ting)匾額題詞為(wei)明(ming)(ming)清兩(liang)代所傳,由元帥、書法(畫)家啟功(gong)、李(li)鋒、董(dong)壽平(ping)、段云(yun)、舒同、趙樸(pu)初諸先生書寫,名(ming)人(ren)名(ming)作(zuo)薈萃,胡為(wei)鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)增輝。
近景格局
門洞上(shang)(shang)方各鐫有(you)石雕匾額(e),依(yi)其四面(mian)分(fen)(fen)別為(wei)(wei)“東臨雷霍”、“西控河(he)汾(fen)”、“南通(tong)秦(qin)蜀”、“北達幽并(bing)”。這一(yi)組按明(ming)萬歷三十(shi)一(yi)年(1603)原刻(ke)復(fu)制的(de)匾文,蒼(cang)勁古(gu)樸,概括了平陽府的(de)重要(yao)地理位置(zhi)。大中樓基(ji)座的(de)東西兩側,均建有(you)石階門樓。登40級臺階,可(ke)上(shang)(shang)到(dao)近10米(mi)高的(de)臺坪,并(bing)由此入一(yi)廳,上(shang)(shang)二層(ceng),俯瞰全(quan)城。樓閣乃(nai)木構(gou)巨制,為(wei)(wei)二層(ceng)、三檐、四級滴水(shui),十(shi)字歇(xie)山(shan)頂(ding)(ding)明(ming)式建筑,共有(you)九條屋(wu)脊(ji),即一(yi)條正(zheng)脊(ji)、四條垂脊(ji)和四條戧脊(ji),因此又稱九脊(ji)頂(ding)(ding)。由于其正(zheng)脊(ji)兩端到(dao)屋(wu)檐處中間折斷(duan)了一(yi)次,分(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)垂脊(ji)和戧脊(ji),好(hao)像“歇(xie)”了一(yi)歇(xie),其上(shang)(shang)半部分(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)懸山(shan)頂(ding)(ding)或(huo)硬(ying)山(shan)頂(ding)(ding)的(de)樣式,而下半部分(fen)(fen)則為(wei)(wei)廡殿頂(ding)(ding)的(de)樣式。歇(xie)山(shan)頂(ding)(ding)結(jie)合了直線(xian)和斜線(xian),在視覺效果上(shang)(shang)給人以棱(leng)角分(fen)(fen)明(ming)、結(jie)構(gou)清晰明(ming)了的(de)感覺。
屋頂(ding)兩(liang)側形(xing)成的(de)(de)(de)三角形(xing)墻面(mian),叫做(zuo)山花。山面(mian)有(you)博(bo)風板,山花和博(bo)風之間有(you)段(duan)距離(li),可(ke)形(xing)成陰影。為(wei)了使屋頂(ding)不(bu)過(guo)于(yu)(yu)龐(pang)大,山花從山面(mian)檐(yan)(yan)柱中線向內收進,屋脊(ji)上(shang)有(you)各種脊(ji)獸(shou)(shou)(shou)裝飾,其(qi)(qi)中正(zheng)脊(ji)上(shang)有(you)吻獸(shou)(shou)(shou)或望獸(shou)(shou)(shou),垂(chui)脊(ji)上(shang)有(you)垂(chui)獸(shou)(shou)(shou),戧(chuang)脊(ji)上(shang)有(you)戧(chuang)獸(shou)(shou)(shou)和仙(xian)人走獸(shou)(shou)(shou),其(qi)(qi)數量和用法(fa)都是(shi)有(you)嚴格等級限制的(de)(de)(de)。其(qi)(qi)中重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)歇山頂(ding)等級高于(yu)(yu)單檐(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding),僅(jin)低于(yu)(yu)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding),而(er)單檐(yan)(yan)歇山頂(ding)低于(yu)(yu)單檐(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding),只有(you)五品以(yi)上(shang)官吏的(de)(de)(de)住宅正(zheng)堂才(cai)能(neng)使用。歇山頂(ding)分單檐(yan)(yan)和重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)兩(liang)種,所謂重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan),就是(shi)在基本歇山頂(ding)的(de)(de)(de)下方,再加上(shang)一層(ceng)屋檐(yan)(yan),和廡殿頂(ding)第(di)二檐(yan)(yan)大致相同(tong)。例如天安門(men)、故(gu)宮的(de)(de)(de)太和門(men)、保和殿、乾清宮等就是(shi)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)歇山頂(ding),妙應寺山門(men)、智(zhi)化寺智(zhi)化殿、臺(tai)灣臺(tai)北(bei)府城北(bei)門(men)則為(wei)單檐(yan)(yan)歇山頂(ding)。
鼓(gu)(gu)(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)總高(gao)43.75米。支撐兩層(ceng)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)閣的12根通天大(da)(da)柱,直徑均(jun)在一(yi)米左右。游客睹之,無(wu)不(bu)(bu)驚嘆(tan),一(yi)層(ceng)廳(ting)(ting)頂(ding)為(wei)天井式(shi)彩(cai)繪格板,精工描繪了孔雀開屏、祥龍盤(pan)旋的民族傳(chuan)統(tong)圖案(an),金(jin)碧輝煌,猶如宮殿(dian);二層(ceng)梁架(jia)拱頂(ding),形如八(ba)卦(gua)藻井,四(si)(si)壁皆為(wei)格棱窗,棱窗上部(bu)(bu)的木格部(bu)(bu)位(wei),以(yi)帝堯傳(chuan)說為(wei)主,描繪上古(gu)故事60余幅:或堯王訪賢,或大(da)(da)禹鎖(suo)蚊,或許由洗耳,無(wu)不(bu)(bu)色(se)彩(cai)古(gu)雅(ya),筆墨傳(chuan)神。二廳(ting)(ting)外有回廊(lang),出(chu)廳(ting)(ting)憑欄四(si)(si)顧,臨汾之山光水色(se)盡(jin)收眼底:鳥(niao)瞰(kan)市(shi)內,大(da)(da)街小巷姹紫嫣(yan)紅,花果城中鋪錦繡;放眼郊外,遠山近水疊翠流碧,麥棉鄉里溢金(jin)銀。大(da)(da)中樓(lou)(lou)(lou)究竟始(shi)建于何代(dai),尚無(wu)文獻確證。據《北史李崇傳(chuan)》記載:“兗(yan)土多(duo)劫盜,崇令村置一(yi)樓(lou)(lou)(lou),樓(lou)(lou)(lou)懸一(yi)鼓(gu)(gu)(gu),盜發之處(chu),雙槌亂擊,四(si)(si)面(mian)諸村聞鼓(gu)(gu)(gu)皆守(shou)要路,俄頃(qing)之間聲布百里,便爾擒送。
平陽歷史
臨(lin)(lin)汾古稱平(ping)陽(yang)(yang)。遠在10萬(wan)年以前,臨(lin)(lin)汾人(ren)民的祖先——“丁村人(ren)”就(jiu)生(sheng)息在汾河兩岸。據堯(yao)典記載,帝(di)堯(yao)建(jian)都平(ping)陽(yang)(yang),故有堯(yao)都之稱傳世(shi)。傳說(shuo)倉(cang)頡造字于(yu)此,也是東漢時(shi)期(qi)名將衛青、霍去病的故里。臨(lin)(lin)汾商周時(shi)稱冀州,春秋(qiu)屬晉,戰國屬魏,春秋(qiu)時(shi)為河東郡地,漢代平(ping)陽(yang)(yang)縣(xian),兩晉時(shi)期(qi)劉(liu)淵亦(yi)建(jian)都平(ping)陽(yang)(yang),隋朝(chao)改(gai)為臨(lin)(lin)汾縣(xian),沿用了(le)下來。
鼓樓興建
諸州置樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)懸鼓(gu),自崇始(shi)也。”李崇是北(bei)魏末(mo)山東兗州刺(ci)史(shi),既然北(bei)魏從山東兗州開始(shi),州州興起(qi)了(le)建鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou),那(nei)么作為晉州治(zhi)所的(de)(de)(de)平陽,于北(bei)魏始(shi)建鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)亦(yi)有(you)可(ke)能(neng)。據史(shi)學(xue)界專家考證(zheng),平陽鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)有(you)金(jin)代改建取名鐘樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)之(zhi)(zhi)說(shuo),現在的(de)(de)(de)大中(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)上亦(yi)懸有(you)金(jin)明昌七年(1196)鑄造的(de)(de)(de)1口大鐵鐘。以此推斷,此樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)晚建于北(bei)宋時期。隨著歲月(yue)的(de)(de)(de)流逝,城市的(de)(de)(de)發(fa)展,鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)的(de)(de)(de)作用(yong)逐(zhu)漸由(you)防盜變為報時之(zhi)(zhi)用(yong),且因鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)均建于城市中(zhong)心,可(ke)發(fa)揮人(ren)文(wen)景觀的(de)(de)(de)作用(yong),因此毀(hui)而(er)復(fu)修次數越(yue)多,建筑(zhu)形(xing)制(zhi)便愈壯(zhuang)美(mei)。據方志和碑碣(jie)記載,在歷臨汾(fen)鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)共修過7次。自金(jin)改建往后,直(zhi)到民(min)國22年(1933)由(you)各界人(ren)士捐資興工,使鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)(lou)又恢復(fu)了(le)原(yuan)貌。
戰火中重生
1948年,解(jie)放戰爭轉入戰略反(fan)攻階段,司令員率部包圍了臨(lin)汾(fen)城(cheng)。在(zai)城(cheng)內頑守(shou)的(de)閻軍,不(bu)顧(gu)市民的(de)反(fan)對(dui),將(jiang)修復僅(jin)15年的(de)鼓(gu)樓(lou)強(qiang)行(xing)拆毀。自(zi)1984年9月(yue)至1987年5月(yue),臨(lin)汾(fen)市成立修復鼓(gu)樓(lou)委(wei)員會(hui),按明代(dai)(dai)風格重(zhong)新修復了鼓(gu)樓(lou),并恢復了明代(dai)(dai)對(dui)鼓(gu)樓(lou)的(de)稱謂——大(da)中(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)。新修大(da)中(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)的(de)門廳匾(bian)(bian)額(e),基(ji)本上選用(yong)了明清時(shi)的(de)原有匾(bian)(bian)詞。三(san)層東(dong)、南兩(liang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)“太行(xing)形(xing)勝”、“云(yun)天咫尺(chi)”由(you)元帥親(qin)筆(bi)題(ti)寫:西面(mian)(mian)(mian)“望于姑射(she)”由(you)前(qian)中(zhong)(zhong)國書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)協會(hui)啟功先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)作書(shu)(shu);北面(mian)(mian)(mian)“窗宿斗牛”由(you)軍內書(shu)(shu)家(jia)李鋒(feng)揮毫(hao);二層4塊門匾(bian)(bian),東(dong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)“紫氣東(dong)臨(lin)”出(chu)自(zi)洪洞籍中(zhong)(zhong)國書(shu)(shu)畫家(jia)董壽平老先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)之手,西面(mian)(mian)(mian)“襟山帶河”出(chu)自(zi)蒲(pu)縣籍革命老干部原國家(jia)計委(wei)副主任(ren)段云(yun)筆(bi)下,南面(mian)(mian)(mian)“乾坤樓(lou)閣”為大(da)書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)舒同先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)之作,北面(mian)(mian)(mian)“聲和擊壤”乃中(zhong)(zhong)國政協、佛學會(hui)會(hui)長、大(da)書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)趙樸初所書(shu)(shu)。