明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)初(chu)建之(zhi)時占(zhan)地約2萬余畝(mu),于元(yuan)(yuan)至正二(er)十六年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)1366年(nian))始建,洪武十二(er)年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)1379年(nian))竣工。洪武二(er)年(nian),薦(jian)號英陵(ling),后改稱皇(huang)陵(ling)。明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)主要(yao)有皇(huang)城、磚(zhuan)城、土城三(san)道,殿(dian)宇(yu)、房(fang)舍千余間,陵(ling)丘、石刻群等(deng)。明(ming)(ming)末以(yi)來,人(ren)為(wei)破壞(huai)和風雨(yu)侵蝕,宮(gong)闕殿(dian)宇(yu)廢為(wei)遺址,現僅存(cun)陵(ling)丘及石刻群。明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)雖非帝王之(zhi)陵(ling),但“宮(gong)闕殿(dian)宇(yu)、壯(zhuang)麗森嚴”。
明(ming)(ming)皇陵(ling)有三重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣,里(li)(li)為皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)(chang)251米,四門(men)(men)紅土(tu)泥飾,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)為磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)(chang)約3公里(li)(li),外(wai)為土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)(chang)14公里(li)(li)。明(ming)(ming)皇陵(ling)總體布(bu)局(ju)采(cai)用(yong)“三套(tao)方城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把陵(ling)園(yuan)展(zhan)成(cheng)三重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣的(de)(de)(de)格局(ju),將石(shi)刻列置于(yu)皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之前,陵(ling)墓(mu)在皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之后(hou),享(xiang)殿居(ju)皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),華表置于(yu)石(shi)獸與石(shi)人石(shi)馬之間。明(ming)(ming)皇陵(ling)由于(yu)陵(ling)向坐(zuo)南(nan)朝北偏東(dong)(dong),因此坐(zuo)落在南(nan)北中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)軸(zhou)線上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)建筑物均(jun)是面對北向,且(qie)以(yi)外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北門(men)(men)為正門(men)(men),明(ming)(ming)顯的(de)(de)(de)斜向東(dong)(dong)北的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北而(er)南(nan)進土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅門(men)(men),依(yi)次為紅橋、欞星門(men)(men)、磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)(ming)樓、神道、御橋、皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)、皇堂、皇城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后(hou)紅門(men)(men)、墳丘、磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)明(ming)(ming)樓、土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門(men)(men)。在這條3.4公里(li)(li)長(chang)(chang)的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)軸(zhou)線兩旁,對稱的(de)(de)(de)建有東(dong)(dong)角門(men)(men)和(he)(he)西(xi)角門(men)(men),左右兩排(pai)石(shi)像(xiang)生,皇陵(ling)碑和(he)(he)無(wu)字碑,東(dong)(dong)廡(wu)和(he)(he)西(xi)廡(wu),東(dong)(dong)明(ming)(ming)樓和(he)(he)西(xi)明(ming)(ming)樓,東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)和(he)(he)西(xi)門(men)(men)。陵(ling)垣內外(wai)的(de)(de)(de)其(qi)他建筑,也大(da)體是東(dong)(dong)西(xi)對稱或南(nan)北對稱。
皇城
皇陵修建時建皇城一座,磚壘,高二(er)丈(zhang),周七十五丈(zhang)五尺(chi),紅土泥飭。正殿(dian)九間,丹陛三級,黃琉(liu)璃瓦、青碧(bi)(bi)繪彩。金(jin)門五間。左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)廡,各十一間。燎(liao)爐一座。角門左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)各一座。后紅門五座。碑亭左(zuo)右(you)(you)(you)各一座。御橋(qiao)五座,跨金(jin)水河。華表并石(shi)人(ren)、石(shi)獸(shou)共三十六對(dui),在北城門內,兩傍直(zhi)抵金(jin)門外(wai)御橋(qiao)北止。以上俱黃琉(liu)璃瓦,青碧(bi)(bi)彩繪,二(er)十家人(ren)戶輪流直(zhi)守。
磚城
皇陵建磚城(cheng)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),里外(wai)(wai)磚筑(zhu),高二(er)丈,周六(liu)里一(yi)(yi)百(bai)一(yi)(yi)十八步,開(kai)四門,俱(ju)有(you)樓(lou)。城(cheng)樓(lou)四門四座(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服殿六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)二(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳(ting)六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)為四門直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星門外(wai)(wai)直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)十一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)上俱(ju)阜(fu)瓦(wa)。欞星門三(san)座(zuo),綠琉璃飭(chi)。紅(hong)橋共五(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)。以(yi)上十一(yi)(yi)社(she)人戶(hu)輪流看守。神(shen)廚(chu)(chu)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),在北(bei)城(cheng)門外(wai)(wai)東(dong)。二(er)十家廚(chu)(chu)役人戶(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)守。神(shen)廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)門。神(shen)庫南(nan)北(bei)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲(sheng)廚(chu)(chu)六(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池一(yi)(yi)口。鼓房(fang)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇(yu)祭支更。齋宮一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),去北(bei)城(cheng)門東(dong)北(bei)一(yi)(yi)里,新收入戶(hu)輪流直(zhi)(zhi)日看守。正(zheng)殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右廡各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)門三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂(xiang)房(fang)東(dong)西各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門二(er)座(zuo)。直(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)東(dong)西各(ge)(ge)三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)橋三(san)座(zuo),已(yi)阜(fu)瓦(wa)蓋建。混堂一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),去北(bei)城(cheng)門東(dong)北(bei)二(er)里,新收入戶(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)守。正(zheng)房(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水(shui)池二(er)座(zuo)。門一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇陵建土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),周(zhou)二十(shi)(shi)(shi)八(ba)里(li),四(si)十(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)社人戶輪流(liu)直守,撥設皇陵衛(wei)巡綽。正紅門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)三(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)北(bei),向東(dong)北(bei)。神(shen)路(lu)長三(san)里(li),傍(bang)植松(song)柏,路(lu)達都(dou)城(cheng)(cheng),亦(yi)設本(ben)衛(wei)巡守。東(dong)西(xi)角(jiao)(jiao)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。官(guan)(guan)廳二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),即祠祭署衙門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),東(dong)、西(xi)、南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)各三(san)間。直房東(dong)、西(xi)、南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外各三(san)間。下馬(ma)牌八(ba)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)四(si)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外。鋪舍十(shi)(shi)(shi)三(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。水(shui)關(guan)、大(da)水(shui)關(guan)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)北(bei)角(jiao)(jiao)內,水(shui)從此(ci)流(liu)出(chu)入(ru)淮。小(xiao)水(shui)關(guan)四(si)面共十(shi)(shi)(shi)九座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。皇堂橋一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)大(da)水(shui)關(guan)之北(bei)。外直房四(si)十(shi)(shi)(shi)間,在(zai)東(dong)角(jiao)(jiao)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外,各衙門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)陪祭官(guan)(guan)駐馬(ma)處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇(huang)陵土(tu)城(cheng)為外城(cheng),開六個門,以(yi)所朝的(de)方(fang)向(xiang)稱東、西(xi)、南、北四門,北門東西(xi)各有一(yi)角門。土(tu)城(cheng)遺址周長15.44公里。據當地群眾(zhong)(zhong)反映,抗日戰(zhan)爭期間(jian)土(tu)埂(geng)(geng)高出(chu)周圍農田。建國后群眾(zhong)(zhong)多于此取碎磚,土(tu)埂(geng)(geng)被(bei)夷平。今遺址依稀(xi)可見。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚城為(wei)二道城,《鳳(feng)陽新書》載:“里外(wai)磚筑(zhu),高二丈,周六里一百一十八步,開四門,俱(ju)有(you)樓(lou)”。門名以所朝方(fang)向,稱為(wei)東、西(xi)、南、北明樓(lou)。明亡后,磚城及明樓(lou)毀圮,現僅存遺址。
皇城遺址
皇城(cheng)為(wei)皇陵最里一道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘,高(gao)二丈(zhang)(zhang),周七十五丈(zhang)(zhang)五尺(chi)”。北城(cheng)墻正(zheng)(zheng)中為(wei)金門,五間,南城(cheng)墻正(zheng)(zheng)中為(wei)后(hou)紅(hong)門,五座。今(jin)門及城(cheng)墻久毀(hui)。
【皇城(cheng)正殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正(zheng)殿(dian)又(you)稱“祭殿(dian)”、“享殿(dian)”、“皇堂”。明洪武十一年夏四月始建,十二年閏五(wu)月丁(ding)已(yi)落成。《鳳陽新書》載:“正(zheng)殿(dian)九間,丹陛三級,黃琉璃,青碧(bi)繪(hui)彩”。東西(xi)廡,各(ge)十一間。崇禎八(ba)年正(zheng)月丙寅,毀于兵火。今遺址尚在,仍(reng)高出(chu)附(fu)近地面(mian)。西(xi)部遺存1.6米(mi)和1.3米(mi)見方柱礎石各(ge)1塊(kuai)、螭(chi)首石構件(jian)1塊(kuai)。原(yuan)有蟠龍(long)欄(lan)桿柱石一個,已(yi)運(yun)至龍(long)興寺陳列(lie)于《明皇陵文物陳列(lie)室》內(nei)。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)列(lie)于皇(huang)陵(ling)磚城北門內(nei)神道兩側,為32對(dui)(dui)(dui),自北向南順(shun)序為麒麟2對(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)獅(shi)8對(dui)(dui)(dui)、華表2對(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及控馬(ma)者6對(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)虎(hu)4對(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)羊4對(dui)(dui)(dui)、文(wen)臣、武(wu)將、內(nei)侍(shi)各2對(dui)(dui)(dui)。民(min)國22年(nian)(nian)(1933年(nian)(nian))曾對(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)作過一次整修。1對(dui)(dui)(dui)內(nei)侍(shi)和1對(dui)(dui)(dui)控馬(ma)人(ren)缺頭,均(jun)從頸端啟槽(cao)補上(shang),一組(zu)石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及控馬(ma)人(ren)身部開裂,也鑿洞眼以(yi)鐵扒加固。“文(wen)化大革命”初期,石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)遭(zao)到破壞(huai)。17對(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)獸(shou)被推(tui)倒(dao)4對(dui)(dui)(dui),32條獸(shou)腿(tui)斷缺,4對(dui)(dui)(dui)底座(zuo)殘(can)(can)損,6對(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)人(ren),1人(ren)倒(dao)地(di),1人(ren)上(shang)部斷裂,華表均(jun)被推(tui)倒(dao),斷成2至3截(jie),石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及控馬(ma)人(ren)被砸得殘(can)(can)缺不全,僅存1人(ren)3馬(ma)完(wan)好。1981年(nian)(nian)7月(yue)、1983年(nian)(nian)4月(yue)和1985年(nian)(nian)6月(yue)相繼(ji)修復,除1馬(ma)及1個(ge)控馬(ma)人(ren)外(wai),余(yu)皆恢復原貌。石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)均(jun)系整塊石(shi)(shi)料琢成,質地(di)堅(jian)硬,呈黑色(se),有紅(hong)筋,皇(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)歷(li)經600余(yu)年(nian)(nian),至今石(shi)(shi)人(ren)衣(yi)著、扣帶、石(shi)(shi)獸(shou)毛發(fa)等(deng)纖(xian)細(xi)部分,仍(reng)如新刻,極為清晰。石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)造型逼真,刻工精細(xi)。
皇陵碑
皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)乃(nai)“大(da)明皇(huang)陵(ling)之碑(bei)(bei)(bei)”的(de)簡稱,位(wei)于皇(huang)陵(ling)神道南端西(xi)側(ce),洪武十一(yi)年七(qi)月建。該碑(bei)(bei)(bei)由碑(bei)(bei)(bei)首、云(yun)盤、碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身、駝峰和鰲坐五部分組成,通高(gao)6.87米(mi)。歷(li)經600余年,仍屹(yi)立(li)原處,完好無損(sun)。原有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久毀,柱礎石尚在。洪武十一(yi)年,命江陰(yin)侯吳良督(du)工新造皇(huang)堂,朱元璋嫌原碑(bei)(bei)(bei)記皆(jie)儒臣粉飾之文,恐(kong)不足為后世子孫戒,乃(nai)親撰(zhuan)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)文,重立(li)新碑(bei)(bei)(bei),全(quan)文1105字,追述其家(jia)庭出身,本人經歷(li),元末農民起義和他(ta)參(can)加起義軍的(de)情況(kuang),以及東渡大(da)江,統一(yi)全(quan)國的(de)簡略過程。
無字碑
無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)因碑(bei)(bei)(bei)面無字而俗稱(cheng),位于皇陵神道南端東側,西(xi)(xi)距皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)50米(mi)。無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的形制規格與皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)相(xiang)同,所不同的是皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的碑(bei)(bei)(bei)首與碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身以榫(sun)卯連結,而無字碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻(que)系一(yi)(yi)整(zheng)塊(kuai)(kuai)石(shi)料雕成(cheng)。原(yuan)(yuan)有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久(jiu)圮。建國前碑(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒臥(wo)在地,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身折斷為(wei)三(san)截(jie),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)仍在原(yuan)(yuan)位。1983年(nian)3月,縣文物管理(li)所將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)向西(xi)(xi)移位,同年(nian)4月配(pei)合省文物工作隊,清理(li)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)基(ji)礎。第一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)承托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)的四塊(kuai)(kuai)片石(shi),第二層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)石(shi)灰沙漿,第三(san)層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)膠漿。根據清理(li)情況分析,此碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾倒原(yuan)(yuan)因,系第二層(ceng)(ceng)基(ji)礎密度松散,缺少強度所致(zhi)。1985年(nian)春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)復原(yuan)(yuan),同年(nian)6月,粘(zhan)接(jie)重新樹立(li)。
明皇(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)是已(yi)知明代最早(zao)、數(shu)量最多、刻(ke)(ke)工最精細(xi)(xi)的(de)皇(huang)家(jia)陵(ling)園,石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)具(ju)有很高的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)藝(yi)術價值。不(bu)僅數(shu)量居歷(li)代帝(di)王(wang)陵(ling)墓之(zhi)(zhi)冠,而且(qie)雕刻(ke)(ke)技藝(yi)上也有獨(du)到之(zhi)(zhi)處。均用整塊石(shi)(shi)料雕琢(zhuo),無論是人像,還是動物,均造型(xing)生(sheng)動,刻(ke)(ke)琢(zhuo)精細(xi)(xi),具(ju)有高超(chao)的(de)技藝(yi)和強烈的(de)藝(yi)術感染(ran)力。它們是宋元(yuan)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)藝(yi)術發(fa)展的(de)最早(zao)產物,對明清的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)造型(xing)藝(yi)術發(fa)展產生(sheng)了(le)深遠影響。皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)額篆(zhuan)有“大(da)明皇(huang)陵(ling)之(zhi)(zhi)碑(bei)”6個大(da)字(zi),因碑(bei)文系朱(zhu)(zhu)元(yuan)璋(zhang)親自撰寫,又(you)名“御(yu)制皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)”。朱(zhu)(zhu)元(yuan)璋(zhang)為了(le)讓子(zi)孫后代了(le)解艱(jian)辛家(jia)世(shi)和開(kai)創江(jiang)山(shan)的(de)艱(jian)難(nan),秉筆(bi)直書,歷(li)述家(jia)世(shi)實(shi)情(qing)與(yu)戎馬生(sheng)涯(ya),一改歷(li)代帝(di)陵(ling)碑(bei)刻(ke)(ke)粉飾夸功、諛墓不(bu)實(shi)的(de)惡習(xi)。碑(bei)文長達1105字(zi),是研究(jiu)朱(zhu)(zhu)元(yuan)璋(zhang)家(jia)史與(yu)元(yuan)末明初歷(li)史的(de)珍貴史料。
自(zi)駕路線(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)縣(xian)城南7公里,省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)307線(xian):明光(guang)--亳州;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)310線(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--淮南;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)101線(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--蚌埠(bu);省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)209梅(mei)市段。縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)總(zong)(zong)大路:總(zong)(zong)鋪--大溪河(he);縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)殷(yin)路:鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--殷(yin)澗;縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)周路:鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--周圩。
公交路線:鳳(feng)陽汽(qi)車(che)站乘往大廟鎮班車(che)可到(dao)景(jing)區。