一、中山裝的創始人是誰
中山裝(zhuang)是以(yi)孫中山先生的(de)名字命名的(de)一(yi)種服(fu)裝(zhuang),被(bei)世界(jie)公認為中國的(de)“國服(fu)”,那么(me)中山裝(zhuang)誰發明的(de)呢?
實際上,中山裝(zhuang)并不(bu)是(shi)中國的(de)(de)傳統(tong)服(fu)裝(zhuang),而是(shi)辛亥革命后,由孫中山先生(sheng)(sheng)設(she)計創新的(de)(de)一(yi)種服(fu)裝(zhuang),它(ta)是(shi)孫中山參照中國原(yuan)有的(de)(de)衣褲特點,吸(xi)收(shou)南洋華僑(qiao)的(de)(de)企領文裝(zhuang)和西裝(zhuang)樣(yang)式,本著(zhu)“適于(yu)衛生(sheng)(sheng)、便(bian)于(yu)動(dong)作(zuo)、易于(yu)經(jing)濟(ji)、壯(zhuang)于(yu)觀瞻”的(de)(de)原(yuan)則(ze),親自(zi)主持設(she)計,由黃隆生(sheng)(sheng)裁制出的(de)(de)一(yi)種服(fu)裝(zhuang)式樣(yang)。
據史料記載,1912年1月1日,孫中(zhong)(zhong)山先生將(jiang)在南(nan)(nan)京宣誓就任中(zhong)(zhong)華民國(guo)“臨時(shi)大總統(tong)(tong)”,即將(jiang)就職(zhi)的孫中(zhong)(zhong)山先生感到(dao),作為中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)新政(zheng)府的領導人穿著西裝不大合適,而穿著中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)的傳統(tong)(tong)服裝(對襟式(shi)(shi)短衫(shan)褂(gua)、大襟式(shi)(shi)長衫(shan)等),也(ye)不合適,于(yu)是他就以當時(shi)在南(nan)(nan)洋華僑中(zhong)(zhong)較為流行的服裝上(shang)衣和西褲為參照,自己設計了一種(zhong)獨特的服裝式(shi)(shi)樣,即中(zhong)(zhong)山裝。
二、第一套中山裝是誰制作的
中(zhong)山(shan)裝是孫中(zhong)山(shan)先生設計發(fa)明的(de)(de)一種服裝式(shi)樣,而(er)協助孫中(zhong)山(shan)完成首套中(zhong)山(shan)裝制作的(de)(de)裁(cai)縫(feng)是誰(shui),有兩(liang)種說法:
1、黃隆生
一種說法認為首套(tao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝是(shi)黃(huang)(huang)隆生(sheng)(sheng)制作的,他是(shi)廣東人,原為越(yue)南華僑,在河內(nei)開(kai)隆生(sheng)(sheng)洋服店。孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)早年(nian)到河內(nei)組(zu)建興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會時,一次偶然進入該店購物,與(yu)黃(huang)(huang)攀談。黃(huang)(huang)初識(shi)孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan),極為敬(jing)佩,當(dang)即決(jue)定參(can)(can)加該組(zu)織,為革命出錢出力。參(can)(can)加興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會后,黃(huang)(huang)隆生(sheng)(sheng)隨孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)回(hui)到國內(nei),曾(ceng)在中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)華民(min)國大元帥府任(ren)職。孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)設(she)計中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝時,想到了黃(huang)(huang)隆生(sheng)(sheng),并請他幫助縫制。黃(huang)(huang)接過孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)設(she)計的方案,抓緊制作,很快世界上第一套(tao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝便誕(dan)生(sheng)(sheng)了。
2、王才運
還有一種(zhong)說(shuo)法認為(wei)(wei),首套中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山裝是“榮(rong)昌祥”的(de)(de)裁縫(feng)王才運制(zhi)作的(de)(de)。辛亥(hai)革命后,孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山慕名到(dao)國(guo)內有名的(de)(de)裁縫(feng)店“榮(rong)昌祥”定制(zhi)了幾套西服,十分滿意。就拿了一件日(ri)本陸軍士官(guan)服對(dui)王才運說(shuo):“我(wo)(wo)(wo)去日(ri)本,日(ri)本朋友夸我(wo)(wo)(wo)身上(shang)西裝做得好,以為(wei)(wei)是美國(guo)貨(huo),看了‘榮(rong)昌祥’的(de)(de)牌子才相(xiang)信是中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)貨(huo)。‘榮(rong)昌祥’為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人爭了光(guang)!這(zhe)次(ci)我(wo)(wo)(wo)想請你們做件中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)服代表(biao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人。”他又(you)指著(zhu)士官(guan)服說(shuo):“改革此服,為(wei)(wei)吾所用。”
王才運根據孫中山的意思,與一些打樣、裁剪名師一起再三琢磨、幾經試樣、反復修改,把原來的10粒扣改成7粒,后又改為5粒;在款式上改為直翻領、四貼袋、倒山筆架式帶蓋;在袖口加3粒紐扣,防止磨損,美觀大方。服裝制成后由孫先生試穿,既簡樸又莊重,且具備西服的特點,孫中山十分滿意。王才運即為這套服裝定型,取名“中山裝”。