一、 中山裝是什么服裝
中山裝(zhuang)是以孫中山先生為名的(de)(de)一種(zhong)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang),它是在(zai)廣泛吸收歐美服(fu)(fu)飾的(de)(de)基礎上(shang),綜合了(le)日式(shi)學(xue)生服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(詰襟服(fu)(fu))與中式(shi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)特點,從而設(she)計出的(de)(de)一種(zhong)立(li)翻領有袋蓋的(de)(de)四貼袋服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)。
1929年4月,中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)經國(guo)民(min)政府明令公布為(wei)法定制服。20世紀(ji)50年代以后,中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)成(cheng)為(wei)從國(guo)家領導人到普通(tong)老百姓(xing)的正式服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。20世紀(ji)80年代以后,中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)在民(min)間逐漸(jian)被(bei)人們遺忘,但(dan)國(guo)家領導人在出(chu)席重大(da)活動(dong)時,依舊(jiu)習慣穿著(zhu)中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。
二、中山裝的由來說法有哪些
中山(shan)裝(zhuang)一般認為是孫中山(shan)先生(sheng)設計(ji)提倡的一種服裝(zhuang),關(guan)于它(ta)的由來,有(you)多種說法:
1、一種(zhong)說法(fa)(fa)是,孫中(zhong)山在(zai)日(ri)(ri)本活動期間委托華(hua)僑張方誠(cheng)設計(ji)了中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)的草(cao)圖,返上海后(hou)于(yu)1916年(nian)命榮昌祥裁縫(feng)王才(cai)運依圖生產。該(gai)說法(fa)(fa)的另(ling)一支流則說,1919年(nian),孫中(zhong)山先生在(zai)上海居住(zhu)時,有一次(ci),他(ta)將一套已經穿過的日(ri)(ri)本陸軍(jun)服(fu)(fu)拿到亨利(li)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)店請裁縫(feng)改(gai)成“便(bian)(bian)服(fu)(fu)”,改(gai)成“便(bian)(bian)服(fu)(fu)”后(hou)仍(reng)有點(dian)像(xiang)英國軍(jun)制服(fu)(fu)。但在(zai)便(bian)(bian)服(fu)(fu)中(zhong),它(ta)既非“唐裝(zhuang)”,更非“西裝(zhuang)”,店員便(bian)(bian)為(wei)之起名為(wei)中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)。
2、另(ling)一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)說法是1923年,孫中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)在(zai)(zai)廣(guang)州任中(zhong)(zhong)國革命政府(fu)大(da)(da)元帥時(shi)(shi),感到西(xi)(xi)(xi)裝(zhuang)不但式樣(yang)繁瑣(suo),穿著不便(bian),又(you)不大(da)(da)適應當(dang)時(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國人民在(zai)(zai)生(sheng)活、工作等方面的(de)(de)(de)實(shi)用(yong)要求;而(er)中(zhong)(zhong)國原來的(de)(de)(de)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(對襟式短衫(shan)褂,大(da)(da)襟式長衫(shan)等),既不能充分表現當(dang)時(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國人民奮發向上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)代精神,在(zai)(zai)實(shi)用(yong)上(shang)也有類似西(xi)(xi)(xi)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)缺點。于是主張以當(dang)時(shi)(shi)在(zai)(zai)南洋華僑中(zhong)(zhong)流行的(de)(de)(de)“企(qi)領(ling)文裝(zhuang)”上(shang)衣(yi)為基樣(yang),在(zai)(zai)企(qi)領(ling)上(shang)加一(yi)(yi)條反(fan)領(ling),以代替西(xi)(xi)(xi)裝(zhuang)襯衣(yi)的(de)(de)(de)硬(ying)領(ling)。這樣(yang)一(yi)(yi)來,一(yi)(yi)件上(shang)衣(yi)便(bian)兼有西(xi)(xi)(xi)裝(zhuang)上(shang)衣(yi)、襯衣(yi)和硬(ying)領(ling)的(de)(de)(de)作用(yong);又(you)將(jiang)“企(qi)領(ling)文裝(zhuang)”上(shang)衣(yi)的(de)(de)(de)三個暗袋改(gai)為四個明(ming)袋,下(xia)面的(de)(de)(de)兩個明(ming)袋還裁制(zhi)成可以隨著放進物品多少而(er)漲縮的(de)(de)(de)“琴袋”式樣(yang)。最(zui)終(zhong)請裁縫(feng)(feng)黃隆生(sheng)幫助(zhu)一(yi)(yi)同規劃和負責縫(feng)(feng)制(zhi),順利地制(zhi)成了世(shi)界上(shang)第(di)一(yi)(yi)套中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)。
3、第三種(zhong)說(shuo)法是(shi)中(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)源于學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。初期(qi)的學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)多(duo)(duo)仿效日本(ben)學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang),而日本(ben)學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)用的是(shi)日本(ben)海(hai)軍裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang),日本(ben)海(hai)軍裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)是(shi)學(xue)(xue)(xue)的歐洲軍裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。孫中(zhong)山(shan)在日本(ben)多(duo)(duo)年(nian),喜(xi)(xi)歡(huan)穿日本(ben)學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。故1926年(nian)11月(yue),《良友》畫報出《孫中(zhong)山(shan)先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)紀念特(te)刊》時,刊登的孫中(zhong)山(shan)照片的介紹就徑說(shuo):“先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)喜(xi)(xi)服學(xue)(xue)(xue)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang),今人(ren)咸稱為中(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。”
4、此外,也有人指(zhi)出中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)的(de)主要參考(kao)來自中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)地(di)方便(bian)服(fu)。源出中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)說(shuo)再(zai)分廣東便(bian)服(fu)說(shuo)及寧波服(fu)便(bian)服(fu)說(shuo)。兩(liang)者均認(ren)為(wei)孫中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)從中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)地(di)方便(bian)服(fu)為(wei)基礎(chu),加(jia)入(ru)西裝(zhuang)的(de)硬領及多袋(dai)等特色(se)而(er)成。
三、中山裝的意義
中山裝以孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山先生的(de)(de)(de)名字命名,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)誕(dan)生,結束了(le)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)幾(ji)千年來袍服(fu)制一(yi)統天下的(de)(de)(de)局面,顛覆了(le)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人原有關(guan)于傳統服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)與身體(ti)空間的(de)(de)(de)觀念。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)流行(xing),也代表著服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)平等(deng)化觀念的(de)(de)(de)出現(xian),是中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)發展史上一(yi)場(chang)震撼性的(de)(de)(de)革(ge)命。
中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)對于引(yin)導人(ren)(ren)們形成(cheng)共(gong)(gong)同(tong)的政治、思(si)想(xiang)、文(wen)化與情感(gan)認同(tong)起到了積極作(zuo)用(yong)。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的推廣與流行(xing),促(cu)成(cheng)了中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)傳統袍式(shi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)向西(xi)方短式(shi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的轉型(xing),改(gai)變(bian)了中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人(ren)(ren)“交領右衽,上衣(yi)下裳”的服(fu)飾習慣(guan),也(ye)改(gai)變(bian)了中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人(ren)(ren)對服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的審(shen)美習慣(guan)與實用(yong)標(biao)準。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)不僅(jin)作(zuo)為一種(zhong)政治服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)而流行(xing)全國(guo),而且(qie)作(zuo)為中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)西(xi)文(wen)化融合的服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)而深受(shou)國(guo)人(ren)(ren)喜愛。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)是愛國(guo)、進步(bu)、文(wen)明的象(xiang)征,更是繼承孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)遺(yi)志的象(xiang)征,滿(man)足了近(jin)代中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)人(ren)(ren)意(yi)欲表達的政治情感(gan),引(yin)起思(si)想(xiang)共(gong)(gong)鳴,這是中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)能(neng)夠流行(xing)的真正社(she)會思(si)想(xiang)基礎。
中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)國(guo)現(xian)(xian)(xian)代(dai)民(min)(min)族(zu)國(guo)家(jia)建(jian)構過程中(zhong)出現(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)(de)(de)具有特別意(yi)義的(de)(de)(de)服裝(zhuang),是(shi)(shi)既體現(xian)(xian)(xian)民(min)(min)族(zu)性、又體現(xian)(xian)(xian)現(xian)(xian)(xian)代(dai)性的(de)(de)(de)服裝(zhuang)。與此(ci)同(tong)(tong)時,它(ta)成(cheng)為國(guo)民(min)(min)的(de)(de)(de)認同(tong)(tong)方式以及體現(xian)(xian)(xian)群體意(yi)識的(de)(de)(de)符號,具有獨特的(de)(de)(de)社會文(wen)化價值。正因為如(ru)此(ci),中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)推(tui)廣(guang)與流(liu)行與近代(dai)民(min)(min)族(zu)國(guo)家(jia)的(de)(de)(de)建(jian)構進(jin)程相同(tong)(tong)步(bu),而其(qi)內在民(min)(min)族(zu)主義特性與孫中(zhong)山符號一樣具有持久的(de)(de)(de)生命力(li)。
中(zhong)山裝具有(you)中(zhong)國民(min)族的(de)(de)特(te)點,穿著(zhu)簡便(bian)、舒適(shi)、挺括。曾一度被世界公(gong)認為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)華人民(min)共(gong)和國的(de)(de)“國服”。中(zhong)山裝做為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)國人一度推崇的(de)(de)常式禮服,它同時也承載著(zhu)一種文化,一種禮儀,一份民(min)族自尊和自豪感(gan)。