說起來,這個“踅”字(zi)也是有一(yi)(yi)段故事的,“踅”字(zi)本身(shen)是個冷僻字(zi),清代(dai)合(he)(he)陽有人編了(le)一(yi)(yi)本《土音雜字(zi)》,出于好心,找了(le)一(yi)(yi)個古(gu)(gu)音又讀(du)“xué”的“頁(ye)”字(zi)來為“踅”字(zi)注(zhu)音。但(dan)不想(xiang)知知道這個古(gu)(gu)音的人實在太少了(le),結果弄巧成(cheng)(cheng)拙(zhuo),大(da)家都(dou)按本音讀(du)“yè”,而沒有人讀(du)“踅xué”,外地人到(dao)合(he)(he)陽更是按字(zi)讀(du)音,這樣(yang)一(yi)(yi)來,便(bian)把(ba)“踅面”弄成(cheng)(cheng)“頁(ye)面”了(le),實在是一(yi)(yi)大(da)誤(wu)會。
踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)原產地在(zai)合陽(yang),相傳西(xi)漢(han)高祖(zu)三年(nian),也(ye)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)公(gong)元(yuan)前(qian)204年(nian),淮陰候韓信在(zai)合陽(yang)黃(huang)河(he)邊的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)夏陽(yang)渡(du)用木(mu)罌渡(du)軍活(huo)捉河(he)東魏王豹,為了解決(jue)10萬大(da)軍吃飯問題發(fa)明了踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),距今已有(you)2200多年(nian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史。吃著踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再(zai)(zai)想想這(zhe)個(ge)(ge)(ge)關于(yu)(yu)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起源(yuan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)典故,就(jiu)知道當(dang)年(nian)韓信怎么發(fa)明出踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為行軍打仗(zhang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)飯食(shi)(shi)。一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)勁道。厚且筋大(da),吃在(zai)嘴里(li)耐嚼,咽(yan)在(zai)肚里(li)耐饑(ji)。二是(shi)(shi)(shi)味(wei)醇。吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)除(chu)了鹽(yan)、味(wei)精(jing)等(deng)其它常用調料(liao)外(wai),要拌以(yi)豬油和辣子(zi),所(suo)以(yi)吃起來(lai)油香(xiang)濃(nong)郁(yu),辣味(wei)悠長,兩者(zhe)都能(neng)增進食(shi)(shi)欲。三是(shi)(shi)(shi)方便。這(zhe)與踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)做(zuo)(zuo)工有(you)關,我(wo)曾見過(guo)做(zuo)(zuo)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)過(guo)程,先是(shi)(shi)(shi)和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)(ge)(ge)很大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)瓷盆里(li)倒進面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉和適(shi)量水,用一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木(mu)棒順著同一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪,攪得稀稠勻當(dang)了,舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)勺子(zi)倒在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張直(zhi)徑差不多有(you)2尺多的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)鐵鏊(ao)中(zhong)心(xin),再(zai)(zai)用半(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)子(zi)從鏊(ao)心(xin)向四周一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)旋著刮(gua)開攤(tan)平。據說踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)名子(zi)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)由那個(ge)(ge)(ge)半(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)子(zi)而(er)得的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。但(dan)街上也(ye)有(you)把“踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”寫作(zuo)“旋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),想必也(ye)與一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)地旋著刮(gua)攤(tan)有(you)關。烙熟后一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)張張搭(da)在(zai)外(wai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)涼冷,再(zai)(zai)切成寬窄與薄厚相當(dang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)條(tiao)形(xing),碼得整整齊齊,這(zhe)樣能(neng)保質三、五天(tian)(tian),吃時(shi)只需在(zai)開水鍋里(li)滾一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)下即可。相對(dui)于(yu)(yu)其他飯食(shi)(shi),踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)三個(ge)(ge)(ge)特點(dian)都更有(you)利于(yu)(yu)行軍打仗(zhang),漢(han)高祖(zu)能(neng)穩坐天(tian)(tian)下,其中(zhong)也(ye)有(you)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)份功勞(lao)。
如(ru)今,社會發展了(le)(le),人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們生活水平(ping)提高(gao)了(le)(le),吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)也(ye)稍有(you)(you)(you)講究了(le)(le)。踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)(dou)在(zai)(zai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)飯(fan)(fan)館(guan)里(li)賣,且(qie)大多同時(shi)經營面(mian)(mian)皮、米線等其他小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi),也(ye)不(bu)(bu)(bu)再(zai)現場(chang)直(zhi)播,而是(shi)(shi)前堂用餐,后面(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)(dou)隔了(le)(le)操(cao)作間。桌(zhuo)凳也(ye)換成了(le)(le)青(qing)一(yi)色的(de)(de)(de)專(zhuan)用于(yu)餐館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)桌(zhuo)、高(gao)凳。人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們也(ye)更不(bu)(bu)(bu)用象(xiang)行軍打仗(zhang)那(nei)樣(yang),在(zai)(zai)吃(chi)飯(fan)(fan)上計較(jiao)時(shi)間長短,何況超市里(li)各種各樣(yang)的(de)(de)(de)方便面(mian)(mian)讓人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)能挑花眼。但(dan)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)仍(reng)然受人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)青(qing)睞。自己沒(mei)(mei)(mei)有(you)(you)(you)在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽呆過(guo),不(bu)(bu)(bu)知踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)故鄉合(he)陽人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)是(shi)(shi)非常愛吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)。而在(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin),我所熟知的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)沒(mei)(mei)(mei)有(you)(you)(you)不(bu)(bu)(bu)喜歡踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)。用餐時(shi)分,隨便走進哪(na)個(ge)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)館(guan),都(dou)(dou)(dou)幾(ji)乎(hu)座無虛席,食(shi)者無論(lun)男婦老(lao)幼,不(bu)(bu)(bu)分尊卑(bei)貴賤。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)攤小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)店(dian)里(li)有(you)(you)(you),星級賓(bin)館(guan)飯(fan)(fan)店(dian)里(li)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)食(shi)譜里(li)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)的(de)(de)(de)代(dai)表品類(lei),每(mei)宴賓(bin)客(ke),華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)必(bi)以(yi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)為特色小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)待之。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅如(ru)此,我還(huan)聽說一(yi)些遠離家(jia)鄉在(zai)(zai)外(wai)地干事的(de)(de)(de)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)一(yi)旦回澄,顧不(bu)(bu)(bu)上奔家(jia)里(li),先要到(dao)街(jie)上找一(yi)家(jia)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)館(guan),飽餐一(yi)頓久(jiu)違(wei)的(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),平(ping)日(ri)里(li)和同事們出(chu)去吃(chi)飯(fan)(fan),他們也(ye)常常以(yi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)為首(shou)選(xuan),有(you)(you)(you)時(shi)候即使(shi)一(yi)塊兒(er)享(xiang)用其他飯(fan)(fan)食(shi),當(dang)中(zhong)必(bi)有(you)(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)嘆曰:哎呀(ya)!好(hao)(hao)些日(ri)子(zi)都(dou)(dou)(dou)沒(mei)(mei)(mei)有(you)(you)(you)吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)了(le)(le)。每(mei)當(dang)這(zhe)個(ge)時(shi)候,我就想,踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)雖生在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽,但(dan)也(ye)在(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)扎(zha)了(le)(le)根,而且(qie)這(zhe)根扎(zha)在(zai)(zai)了(le)(le)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)心里(li),讓在(zai)(zai)外(wai)的(de)(de)(de)游子(zi)魂(hun)牽夢縈,讓幾(ji)乎(hu)所有(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)都(dou)(dou)(dou)有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)個(ge)共同的(de)(de)(de)飲(yin)食(shi)愛好(hao)(hao),在(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)若要論(lun)起飲(yin)食(shi)文化來(lai),我看(kan)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)(yin)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)當(dang)是(shi)(shi)首(shou)選(xuan)的(de)(de)(de)飯(fan)(fan)食(shi)之一(yi)。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)蕎面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)做(zuo)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),分(fen)為(wei)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、攤面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、下面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)五(wu)(wu)道工序。首先把蕎麥揀凈(jing)淘好(hao)(hao)(hao),磨(mo)(mo)(mo)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)細(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝(zhuang)四五(wu)(wu)十(shi)(shi)斤的(de)大瓷(ci)盆,在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)添(tian)上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順同(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪拌(ban),這(zhe)是(shi)(shi)關鍵的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須稀稠得(de)(de)當,攪拌(ban)均(jun)勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好(hao)(hao)(hao),攤出的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才(cai)能(neng)好(hao)(hao)(hao)。陜(shan)(shan)西人做(zuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)講(jiang)究自(zi)己動手(shou),去市場里(li)買(mai)壓(ya)好(hao)(hao)(hao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是(shi)(shi)會給鄙(bi)視的(de),所以壓(ya)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機在(zai)陜(shan)(shan)西一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)直銷量有限,賣踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)人講(jiang)究自(zi)已動手(shou),把蕎麥揀凈(jing)淘好(hao)(hao)(hao),磨(mo)(mo)(mo)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)細(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝(zhuang)四五(wu)(wu)十(shi)(shi)斤的(de)大瓷(ci)盆,在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)添(tian)上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順同(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪拌(ban),這(zhe)是(shi)(shi)關鍵的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須稀稠得(de)(de)當,攪拌(ban)均(jun)勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好(hao)(hao)(hao),攤出的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)更好(hao)(hao)(hao)。攤面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)是(shi)(shi)物(wu)制的(de)鐵鏊(ao),重達40余(yu)斤,直徑二尺多。舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)勺和(he)(he)好(hao)(hao)(hao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊倒在(zai)鏊(ao)中(zhong)心,用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)半月形的(de)木踅(xue)(xue)(xue)子劃開攤平(ping),據說“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”即由此得(de)(de)名。稍頃,待一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)受火變硬翻過來烘(hong)烤另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),烙到七八成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)熟(shu),疊(die)在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)起(qi),折(zhe)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四折(zhe),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)刀切(qie)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)細(xi)(xi)絲,講(jiang)究切(qie)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)寬窄和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)餅薄(bo)厚一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)樣,四棱見(jian)線(xian),才(cai)顯功夫。切(qie)好(hao)(hao)(hao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)碼在(zai)木箱在(zai)里(li)備(bei)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。吃時把水(shui)燒(shao)開,再放少(shao)許鹽,以防(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)入鍋中(zhong)變粘。抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)把切(qie)好(hao)(hao)(hao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)投(tou)入鍋中(zhong),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)筷子須鍋一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)攪,便(bian)(bian)可撈起(qi)。外地(di)人見(jian)狀總懷疑這(zhe)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)否變熟(shu),其(qi)實完(wan)全(quan)(quan)不用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)擔(dan)心,因為(wei)在(zai)鏊(ao)上已烙至七八成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),再在(zai)沸湯中(zhong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)燙,便(bian)(bian)完(wan)全(quan)(quan)熟(shu)了(le)(le)。或干撈,或帶湯,悉(xi)聽尊(zun)便(bian)(bian),須手(shou)再用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)笊籬撈一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些(xie)魚兒粉(fen),然后調上豬油(白油)、大油辣椒(jiao)(紅油)、清油辣椒(jiao)、鹽、醋(cu)、蘸(zhan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點花(hua)(hua)(hua)椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),撒一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)捏蔥花(hua)(hua)(hua)或韭菜花(hua)(hua)(hua),便(bian)(bian)可食用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)了(le)(le)。
吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)時(shi)(shi)豬油(you)必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可少(shao),蕎面(mian)(mian)調上(shang)(shang)豬油(you),才軟和好(hao)吃。外(wai)地人(ren)一是嫌蕎面(mian)(mian)看起來黑(hei),其貌不(bu)(bu)(bu)揚(yang);二是怕不(bu)(bu)(bu)熟;三是對紅(hong)油(you)辣(la)椒望而(er)生(sheng)畏,但(dan)若吃上(shang)(shang)一碗,便覺(jue)(jue)(jue)味美可口,咬到嘴(zui)里筋,吃到肚(du)里香(xiang),方(fang)知合陽人(ren)為(wei)什么對踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)感(gan)情(qing)極深。合陽人(ren)不(bu)(bu)(bu)分男女老少(shao),都喜食踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),上(shang)(shang)會趕集,少(shao)不(bu)(bu)(bu)了(le)兩碗踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),一個個吃得(de)滿嘴(zui)紅(hong)油(you),即使(shi)是穿著(zhu)入時(shi)(shi)的(de)大姑娘小媳(xi)婦也絲(si)毫不(bu)(bu)(bu)覺(jue)(jue)(jue)難為(wei)情(qing),反而(er)卻覺(jue)(jue)(jue)得(de)這才吃出味兒來了(le)。逢到過(guo)春節(jie),許多(duo)家都是專門訂做(zuo)幾十(shi)斤,準備好(hao)紅(hong)油(you)辣(la)椒,以(yi)便招待親(qin)朋好(hao)友;碰到接(jie)待外(wai)地來客(ke),踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)更是飯桌上(shang)(shang)必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可少(shao)的(de)保留節(jie)目。
制作(zuo)好的(de)踅面好比(bi)方便(bian)面。吃時(shi)在(zai)(zai)開(kai)水鍋浸泡兩分鐘,撈出,放(fang)進(jin)碗里,加少(shao)許粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu),調鹽、醋、蔥花、花椒面,再淋上(shang)辣(la)椒油及熟豬(zhu)油即成(cheng)。粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)講(jiang)究用綠豆(dou)粉(fen)(fen)制作(zuo),這是(shi)最好的(de)。用小麥(mai)面、玉米面也(ye)行。但通常多用紅薯面制作(zuo)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)。合(he)陽盛產優質紅薯,干(gan)甜適(shi)口,制作(zuo)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)也(ye)不(bu)錯(cuo)。合(he)陽人吃踅面,喜歡多放(fang)辣(la)椒油和豬(zhu)油,這樣,吃起(qi)來(lai)(lai),又綿,又潤,又辣(la),香味濃烈,頗覺過癮。也(ye)可以(yi)伴著(zhu)喝一碗粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)湯。有干(gan)有稀(xi),符合(he)衛生(sheng)營(ying)養要求。而且(qie)蕎麥(mai)又有清熱利尿之功效,當地群眾在(zai)(zai)原來(lai)(lai)簡(jian)單食用的(de)基礎(chu)上(shang)也(ye)進(jin)行了一些改進(jin),把大餅(bing)切成(cheng)細條,吃時(shi)在(zai)(zai)鍋里稍煮,撈出來(lai)(lai)加上(shang)調料,更加好吃。
在合陽各地(di)都可以(yi)吃到(dao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),坊鎮踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)被(bei)稱(cheng)為正宗,高手輩出,每逢(feng)集日(ri),數十(shi)家踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)各呈民彩。近半個(ge)世紀來則以(yi)田(tian)茂林的踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)最為出名(ming)。
炒(chao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)更是做為一(yi)(yi)盤(pan)美味(wei)菜肴出現在(zai)豪華酒店(dian)(dian)的(de)菜譜(pu)里。東(dong)門大酒店(dian)(dian)張師傅做的(de)炒(chao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)五彩斑斕(lan),酥潤可口,韻味(wei)悠(you)長,嚼(jiao)到(dao)嘴里筋,咽(yan)到(dao)肚里香。“長壽菜”——炒(chao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian):龜壽延年(nian)(老人過壽時(shi),一(yi)(yi)只千年(nian)壽龜栩栩如生昂首在(zai)你的(de)面(mian)(mian)前(qian));富貴滿園(中年(nian)人過生日時(shi),一(yi)(yi)朵牡丹(dan)花(hua)盛開在(zai)你的(de)生命(ming)里);太(tai)陽(yang)花(hua)開(孩子過生日時(shi),一(yi)(yi)朵太(tai)陽(yang)花(hua)燦爛在(zai)你的(de)心田(tian))。
炒踅(xue)面做法很簡單。用料:干散的踅(xue)面、雞(ji)蛋(dan)、辣椒(jiao)(jiao)、卷心菜(cai)(cai)、西紅柿(shi)等(deng)蔬(shu)菜(cai)(cai)。把(ba)熟(shu)油熱至4、5成,先倒入(ru)蔥姜蒜爆炒,再放入(ru)花椒(jiao)(jiao)面、辣椒(jiao)(jiao)面,接著放入(ru)黃(huang)豆芽(ya)、紅、綠辣椒(jiao)(jiao)絲(si)炒至7、8成,最后倒入(ru)踅(xue)面,加高湯翻炒裝盤(pan)。
踅面(mian)一年四季都能進(jin)食(shi),“夏吃解乏困,冬(dong)食(shi)驅冷寒”,蕎面(mian)能消暑利尿,有解乏除(chu)濕的藥(yao)效(xiao),常吃可以降血脂,平血壓,治便(bian)秘,調胃(wei)潤腸,既治病,又保健(jian),可謂是(shi)“長壽面(mian)”。隨(sui)著(zhu)人們對蕎麥天然保健(jian)作用的認識,踅面(mian)必(bi)將(jiang)風靡全國(guo),走向世界。
踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)是家鄉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)味道,是家鄉人兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“情(qing)結”。猶記兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)跟隨父(fu)母去(qu)趕(gan)集(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)情(qing)景,口饞,總想吃點什么(me),父(fu)母便帶我們姐(jie)弟踅(xue)(xue)過(guo)來,踅(xue)(xue)過(guo)去(qu),最終(zhong)還是停到最便宜的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)”攤前一(yi)(yi)飽口福。農民的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)父(fu)母親窮(qiong)啊(a),買不起時(shi)(shi)更多(duo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)候(hou)許(xu)諾下次趕(gan)集(ji)時(shi)(shi)讓吃碗踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)——兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“奢侈飯(fan)”,因(yin)此長(chang)大了(le),有(you)錢了(le),可(ke)還是惦記兒(er)(er)時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)”,就是走(zou)出(chu)(chu)去(qu)多(duo)少(shao)年(nian),走(zou)出(chu)(chu)去(qu)多(duo)么(me)遠,仍然惦記。它(ta)已經深深地(di)在(zai)家鄉人的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)心里扎了(le)根,讓在(zai)外的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)游子也魂(hun)牽夢縈。走(zou),咥(xi)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)哈。離(li)家的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)游子或者在(zai)外打工的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)旦回家,路過(guo)街上先找一(yi)(yi)家踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)店,咥(xi)兩碗家鄉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),飽餐一(yi)(yi)頓。平(ping)日(ri)里和(he)同事們出(chu)(chu)去(qu)吃飯(fan),也常常以踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)為首選,有(you)時(shi)(shi)候(hou)即使一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)兒(er)(er)享用其他飯(fan)食,當中有(you)人必嘆:哎呀!好些(xie)日(ri)子都沒有(you)吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)了(le)。
踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)好(hao),好(hao)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)。到了合陽吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)。你一碗(wan),我(wo)一碗(wan),吃(chi)到肚(du)子真(zhen)(zhen)真(zhen)(zhen)餡……街(jie)頭巷尾《踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)香香》的童(tong)謠時(shi)時(shi)在耳邊響起……