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相傳(chuan)，嘗取石脂(zhi)于此(ci)。左思《吳都賦(fu)》云(yun)："赤(chi)(chi)須(xu)(xu)子(zi)蟬蛻而附麗。"赤(chi)(chi)須(xu)(xu)子(zi)，道(dao)教(jiao)傳(chuan)說中的神(shen)仙(xian)。《文(wen)選》李(li)善注引《列仙(xian)傳(chuan)》云(yun)："赤(chi)(chi)須(xu)(xu)子(zi)，豐(feng)人(ren)也，秦穆公(gong)之主魚吏也。數(shu)道(dao)豐(feng)界(jie)災異水旱(han)，十不(bu)失(shi)一(yi)。食(shi)柏實(shi)、石脂(zhi)，絕(jue)谷。齒(chi)落(luo)更生，細發復出。后(hou)去之吳山(shan)。"赤(chi)(chi)須(xu)(xu)子(zi)本非吳人(ren)，故曰"附麗"于此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)歷史悠久(jiu)，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志》載(zai)，漢代(dai)初(chu)(chu)元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，出身(shen)望(wang)族的茅盈、茅固、茅衷兄弟(di)三(san)(san)(san)人(ren)(ren)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修(xiu)煉皆得(de)道(dao)(dao)(dao)，合稱三(san)(san)(san)茅真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君，曾(ceng)修(xiu)茅君殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)(you)"斷碑"殘跡(ji)，至漢平帝(di)時(shi)(shi)，始建(jian)(jian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院。據《光福志》，宋天(tian)(tian)禧(xi)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)宗詔天(tian)(tian)復廢業(ye)重建(jian)(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院為(wei)觀(guan)。"天(tian)(tian)復"為(wei)唐昭宗年(nian)(nian)號，可(ke)見(jian)在唐代(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)已有(you)(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)。南宋時(shi)(shi)，敕平江西郊拓地八百畝創朝真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院沈(shen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)祖。元(yuan)末，殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)遭火焚(fen)而毀。明(ming)初(chu)(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)有(you)(you)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)頗多，香(xiang)火極(ji)盛(sheng)。清初(chu)(chu)順治(zhi)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)著名道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵棲穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茅君故宮，鳩材(cai)修(xiu)葺(qi)(qi)殿(dian)(dian)堂(tang)，不(bu)數年(nian)(nian)，初(chu)(chu)其(qi)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群體。施(shi)(shi)曾(ceng)從王常月(yue)受(shou)戒，為(wei)全真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)龍門(men)(men)派第八代(dai)，后改宗正一(yi)，開創穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)支派，于是聲名顯赫(he)，四(si)方(fang)征請。(《金蓋心燈》)順治(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)，敕賜上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)院額(e)，康熙初(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)又(you)修(xiu)筑(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)(san)茅二(er)殿(dian)(dian)及諸(zhu)配殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)(jian)井泉于山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)。五(wu)十(shi)三(san)(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)，重修(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)三(san)(san)(san)茅真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君埏嗣以(yi)自置(zhi)田(tian)捐獻，為(wei)永遠修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)費。乾隆年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，又(you)有(you)(you)郡人(ren)(ren)修(xiu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)(san)茅二(er)殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)姓金者(zhe)捐建(jian)(jian)大士閣。乾隆元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)，有(you)(you)里(li)中(zhong)富人(ren)(ren)重建(jian)(jian)仙師(shi)門(men)(men)樓，置(zhi)修(xiu)葺(qi)(qi)田(tian)入其(qi)院。七(qi)年(nian)(nian)又(you)有(you)(you)里(li)人(ren)(ren)捐修(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)志》載(zai)：清初(chu)(chu)順治(zhi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，龍虎(hu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三(san)(san)(san)代(dai)天(tian)(tian)師(shi)張洪任游訪穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)，清廷賜額(e)"上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)"，并賜穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵號"養(yang)元(yuan)抱一(yi)宣教演化法師(shi)"。清顧詒(yi)祿《鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)(ren)畫像》云："時(shi)(shi)吳(wu)中(zhong)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)盛(sheng)，首(shou)推穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)。郡城(cheng)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)巍然。年(nian)(nian)久(jiu)殿(dian)(dian)傾(qing)，太傅(fu)金文通公延請道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵主觀(guan)復修(xiu)。"可(ke)見(jian)當(dang)時(shi)(shi)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)盛(sheng)已超過了玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)。

清朝末年，上真觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)，有房(fang)二千(qian)余間，分三十六(liu)房(fang)分管(guan)，有宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)堂(tang)(tang)四十余座。如(ru)天(tian)妃(fei)宮、祖師(shi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇(huang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文(wen)昌(chang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將(jiang)(jiang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子(zi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五(wu)土(tu)(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將(jiang)(jiang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)樨(xi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土(tu)(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如(ru)意軒(xuan)(xuan)、斗姆(mu)閣(ge)(ge)、魁星閣(ge)(ge)、華仙(xian)閣(ge)(ge)、七仙(xian)居(ju)、餐(can)花居(ju)、吉禪房(fang)、養(yang)和堂(tang)(tang)等等。這些(xie)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星羅(luo)棋(qi)布，建筑宏偉(wei)；堂(tang)(tang)內神像，塑造精巧，形象逼真，栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。

民(min)國(guo)時，穹(qiong)窿山道教(jiao)殿(dian)宇(yu)除關(guan)帝殿(dian)、龍王殿(dian)、呂祖殿(dian)、財(cai)神殿(dian)等(deng)外，其余均毀于大火，據穹(qiong)窿山老法師姚臥(wo)松所(suo)述，抗日(ri)戰(zhan)爭期間，穹(qiong)窿山上真觀尚有道士二十余人。"文革"時，殿(dian)宇(yu)全部(bu)毀壞。

自1978年(nian)后，在人民政府(fu)的關懷下，蘇州穹窿山(shan)道(dao)教(jiao)也得到復(fu)興。1991年(nian)，上(shang)真觀在原址上(shang)恢復(fu)重建(jian)。十多年(nian)來(lai)，在道(dao)教(jiao)信眾(zhong)的支持下，先(xian)后建(jian)起了(le)頭山(shan)門、龍(long)王殿(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)、三清殿(dian)、望湖亭等一批(pi)道(dao)教(jiao)建(jian)筑和景點。目前，上(shang)真觀有(you)道(dao)士10多人。

帝王與上真觀

穹窿(long)(long)山上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀自(zi)施法(fa)師(shi)在順(shun)治年(nian)間擴建后(hou)，歷經康(kang)熙(xi)、道(dao)光、同治幾(ji)朝修(xiu)建，規模空(kong)前，"雙闕巍(wei)峨(e)，瓊(qiong)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)璀(cui)璨，危樓杰閣聳插霄漢，遂使茲山名勝于(yu)吳中。"清順(shun)治進士董含《登穹窿(long)(long)謁勾曲行(xing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)》詩云："山勢(shi)(shi)岧(tiao)峣(yao)欲到難，玉真(zhen)(zhen)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)殿擁千官。洞(dong)口斷云朝放鶴，石(shi)根(gen)晴樹暮棲鸞。金門羽客龍泥(ni)印，夜(ye)禮星(xing)辰上(shang)醮壇。"描繪了當年(nian)穹窿(long)(long)山山勢(shi)(shi)高(gao)峻、道(dao)觀宏偉、醮事香火之盛況。

乾隆皇帝六(liu)次南巡，有四次去了上(shang)真觀，曾(ceng)留詩(shi)贊曰(yue)："震澤天(tian)連水(shui)，洞庭西復(fu)東，雙眸望無盡，諸慮(lv)對(dui)宜(yi)空；三萬六(liu)千頃，春風秋月中(zhong)(zhong)，五車稟精氣，誰詔陸龜蒙(meng)。"此詩(shi)鐫刻立碑(bei)于穹窿望湖(hu)亭中(zhong)(zhong)。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)(shi)(shi)道淵，又名亮(liang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)，號鐵竹道人(ren)。人(ren)稱施(shi)(shi)(shi)大法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)或施(shi)(shi)(shi)煉師(shi)(shi)(shi)，蘇州橫(heng)塘人(ren)，出(chu)身(shen)貧(pin)寒，13歲上穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)道人(ren)。爾后下山(shan)(shan)(shan)闖蕩江湖，入(ru)李自成部(bu)下，旋為(wei)大順政權樞密(mi)院工作。由于(yu)李自成部(bu)發生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)內訌，自相殘殺，導(dao)致失敗。于(yu)是(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)亮(liang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)深(shen)(shen)感(gan)世(shi)態炎涼，看(kan)破(po)紅塵，復回(hui)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)隱(yin)居，深(shen)(shen)居簡(jian)出(chu)，修道養身(shen)。當(dang)時道觀(guan)已(yi)(yi)處于(yu)衰敗境地(di)。有(you)一(yi)天(tian)，施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)正在(zai)念(nian)(nian)玉(yu)皇(huang)經，當(dang)念(nian)(nian)到(dao)(dao)(dao)，"敕(chi)命東(dong)方，東(dong)華帝君(jun)，青騎神仙兵(bing)馬，無鞅數(shu)眾，悉令下降(jiang)，覆護受(shou)持(chi)，是(shi)(shi)此經者……"時，恰巧當(dang)時清皇(huang)朝順治(zhi)皇(huang)叔裕(yu)(yu)親王到(dao)(dao)(dao)蘇州盤檢太倉國(guo)帑銀兩(liang)(liang)(liang)返京(jing)，路過(guo)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓，隱(yin)約聽到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上人(ren)聲(sheng)沸騰，劍(jian)聲(sheng)馬嘶，感(gan)到(dao)(dao)(dao)好(hao)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)奇(qi)怪(guai)，此莫非是(shi)(shi)大王山(shan)(shan)(shan)不(bu)成?倒是(shi)(shi)要(yao)看(kan)個(ge)究竟。他(ta)帶了兩(liang)(liang)(liang)個(ge)隨(sui)從登峰，到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂一(yi)看(kan)，只(zhi)見(jian)(jian)數(shu)間茅(mao)屋，里面傳出(chu)木(mu)魚(yu)雷(lei)音，不(bu)見(jian)(jian)人(ren)影(ying)馬匹。進(jin)屋僅見(jian)(jian)一(yi)位道人(ren)正襟危坐，口中念(nian)(nian)念(nian)(nian)有(you)詞，已(yi)(yi)感(gan)此人(ren)非同一(yi)般(ban)。良(liang)久，皇(huang)叔終于(yu)認出(chu)是(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)，十多年(nian)不(bu)見(jian)(jian)，兩(liang)(liang)(liang)人(ren)親密(mi)無間，促(cu)膝交談(tan)。施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)說自己(ji)已(yi)(yi)看(kan)破(po)紅塵，覺(jue)得穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)(shan)能(neng)讓自己(ji)清靜修道，實是(shi)(shi)理想之地(di)，不(bu)亦樂乎(hu)?裕(yu)(yu)親王說："既如(ru)此，何(he)不(bu)增建(jian)殿宇，創其(qi)宏業(ye)?"施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)笑："貧(pin)道哪有(you)這巨資擴建(jian)。"裕(yu)(yu)親王沉思片刻說："只(zhi)要(yao)施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)籌劃何(he)數(shu)目，終能(neng)實現，不(bu)過(guo)，道觀(guan)以建(jian)在(zai)三茅(mao)峰為(wei)妥。"施(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)點頭稱是(shi)(shi)。不(bu)久，朝廷撥(bo)帑興建(jian)，到(dao)(dao)(dao)康熙三年(nian)春(chun)已(yi)(yi)建(jian)成26殿及輔房樓(lou)閣數(shu)千間。

上真觀交通

上真觀坐(zuo)落于(yu)穹窿山(shan)上，乘(cheng)坐(zuo)43路、64路公(gong)交車均(jun)能到(dao)達。