羽絨服制作材料(liao)有哪些 定做羽絨服流程(cheng)

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽絨(rong)服(fu)的材料主(zhu)要是羽絨(rong)和(he)涂(tu)層織物。

①羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(也稱(cheng)(cheng)朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混合物。 前者(zhe)稱(cheng)(cheng)羽(yu)(yu)，后者(zhe)稱(cheng)(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多(duo)(duo)用鴨和(he)鵝的(de)(de)毛，經選洗分(fen)離出(chu)小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子用作羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)絮(xu)料。羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有(you)(you)(you)灰白兩種，白者(zhe)為(wei)佳(jia)。羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)質(zhi)量(liang)(liang)(liang)與充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)和(he)含(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)有(you)(you)(you)關(guan)。充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)一件(jian)羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)絮(xu)進的(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)，用克(ke)表(biao)示，一般(ban)為(wei)250克(ke)左右,充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保(bao)暖(nuan)性差；含(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)羽(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中(zhong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子的(de)(de)含(han)量(liang)(liang)(liang),用百分(fen)比表(biao)示，一般(ban)含(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50～80％。含(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)高，則質(zhi)量(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子能使人體熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)不(bu)易(yi)(yi)散(san)失,且(qie)手感柔軟,但當(dang)受(shou)壓和(he)遇濕后不(bu)易(yi)(yi)及時鼓起(qi)，而小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)此時則能使衣服(fu)(fu)蓬松鼓起(qi)以保(bao)持(chi)衣內有(you)(you)(you)較多(duo)(duo)的(de)(de)空氣，有(you)(you)(you)助(zhu)保(bao)暖(nuan),但小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)多(duo)(duo)了,熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)易(yi)(yi)流散(san)，且(qie)有(you)(you)(you)毛梗感。所以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子和(he)小(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)片(pian)必須兼收并蓄，比例得當(dang)。

②涂(tu)層織(zhi)物(wu)選用(yong)(yong)經緯紗(sha)高(gao)(gao)(gao)密的(de)(de)絲(si)綢(chou)、棉(mian)(mian)布(bu)、棉(mian)(mian)滌(di)等織(zhi)物(wu)，經軋壓處理(li)，使經緯紗(sha)之間的(de)(de)空隙(xi)縮小，再(zai)涂(tu)以高(gao)(gao)(gao)分(fen)子漿料，使之與織(zhi)物(wu)形成交鏈的(de)(de)透明皮膜覆蓋層，以封閉織(zhi)物(wu)經緯間隙(xi)。有的(de)(de)在涂(tu)層漿料內加入氟(fu)磷(lin)樹(shu)脂或(huo)有機硅類(lei)防(fang)(fang)(fang)水劑，使織(zhi)物(wu)具有防(fang)(fang)(fang)露絨、防(fang)(fang)(fang)滲水的(de)(de)性能(neng)。20世紀80年代(dai)已有不經涂(tu)層的(de)(de)特制超高(gao)(gao)(gao)密織(zhi)物(wu)，同樣能(neng)起到(dao)防(fang)(fang)(fang)露絨、防(fang)(fang)(fang)滲水和透氣的(de)(de)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)。用(yong)(yong)于羽絨服(fu)的(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)分(fen)硬(ying)性、軟(ruan)性二類(lei)。滌(di)府(fu)、滌(di)卡、棉(mian)(mian)布(bu)屬(shu)硬(ying)性類(lei)，穿著(zhu)(zhu)平(ping)整；真絲(si)塔府(fu)綢(chou)、尼絲(si)紡屬(shu)軟(ruan)性類(lei)，穿著(zhu)(zhu)柔軟(ruan)舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考(kao)樣衣及圖(tu)紙；

2、針距：11-13針/3cm明線跡，12-14針/3cm暗(an)線跡。合(he)縫用11#機針(zhen)，引線用9#機針；

3、線順色(se)（特殊要求除外），面線用(yong)與身(shen)順色(se)線；

4、各部位線路要順直，縫紉線跡30cm內(nei)不(bu)得有兩處單(dan)跳和連(lian)續跳針，包縫線(xian)跡不(bu)允許(xu)跳針。面、底線(xian)應松緊適宜(yi)，起落都要打回針；

5、袖子(zi)抽(chou)褶(zhe)：先在單衣(yi)片上抽(chou)褶(zhe)，然(ran)后再(zai)充絨納線。抽(chou)褶(zhe)線與肩縫對縫；

6、汽眼加隔色墊布；

7、大身拉鏈(lian)要(yao)求平整，不可起浪。門襟鏈(lian)拉頭(tou)要(yao)求左拉右插，緝0.1cm明(ming)線；

8、主(zhu)標、小號釘在(zai)內(nei)里后(hou)中；水洗標在(zai)內(nei)里左側縫1/2處為標下口；

9、所有里(li)子拼接縫要求(qiu)包縫；

10、袖(xiu)口(kou)內面布為勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾明線先充絨后(hou)輯明線；

12、棉靠里布，帽(mao)子周(zhou)圈走0.1cm明線，帽(mao)子前口0.1+2.5cm明線。帽子底口(kou)0.1明線(xian)。帽縫帶帶條。具體納線(xian)參考圖(tu)紙(zhi)

13、肩縫、腋下、兜(dou)布加(jia)帶(dai)條；

14、半成(cheng)品必須小燙，熨燙平服，無極光；

15、其他(ta)具體做法(fa)參考樣衣。