羽絨(rong)(rong)服(fu)制(zhi)作材料有哪(na)些(xie) 定(ding)做羽絨(rong)(rong)服(fu)流程(cheng)

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽絨服的材料主要是羽絨和涂層織物。

①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片(pian)和絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(也稱朵(duo)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混合物(wu)。 前(qian)者稱羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)，后者稱絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多用鴨和鵝的(de)(de)毛，經(jing)選洗分離出小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片(pian)和絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子用作羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服的(de)(de)絮料。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有(you)灰白兩種，白者為佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服的(de)(de)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)與充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)和含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)有(you)關。充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)一(yi)(yi)件(jian)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服絮進的(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)，用克表(biao)(biao)示，一(yi)(yi)般為250克左右,充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)少(shao),保(bao)暖性差(cha)；含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子的(de)(de)含量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang),用百分比(bi)表(biao)(biao)示，一(yi)(yi)般含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)為50～80％。含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)高(gao)，則(ze)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子能(neng)使人體熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)不易(yi)散失,且(qie)手感柔軟,但當受壓(ya)和遇(yu)濕后不易(yi)及時鼓起(qi)，而(er)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片(pian)此(ci)時則(ze)能(neng)使衣服蓬松(song)鼓起(qi)以(yi)保(bao)持衣內有(you)較(jiao)多的(de)(de)空(kong)氣，有(you)助保(bao)暖,但小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片(pian)多了,熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)易(yi)流(liu)散，且(qie)有(you)毛梗(geng)感。所(suo)以(yi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子和小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片(pian)必須(xu)兼(jian)收并(bing)蓄(xu)，比(bi)例得當。

②涂層織(zhi)物選用經緯紗(sha)高(gao)(gao)密的(de)絲(si)(si)綢、棉布、棉滌(di)(di)等織(zhi)物，經軋壓處理，使(shi)經緯紗(sha)之(zhi)(zhi)間的(de)空(kong)隙縮小，再涂以(yi)高(gao)(gao)分子漿料，使(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)與織(zhi)物形成交鏈的(de)透(tou)明皮膜覆蓋層，以(yi)封閉(bi)織(zhi)物經緯間隙。有的(de)在涂層漿料內加入氟磷(lin)樹脂或(huo)有機硅類(lei)防(fang)水(shui)劑，使(shi)織(zhi)物具有防(fang)露(lu)(lu)絨、防(fang)滲水(shui)的(de)性(xing)能(neng)。20世紀(ji)80年代已有不(bu)經涂層的(de)特(te)制(zhi)超(chao)高(gao)(gao)密織(zhi)物，同樣能(neng)起到防(fang)露(lu)(lu)絨、防(fang)滲水(shui)和透(tou)氣的(de)作用。用于羽絨服的(de)織(zhi)物分硬(ying)性(xing)、軟性(xing)二類(lei)。滌(di)(di)府、滌(di)(di)卡、棉布屬(shu)硬(ying)性(xing)類(lei)，穿著(zhu)平整；真絲(si)(si)塔(ta)府綢、尼絲(si)(si)紡屬(shu)軟性(xing)類(lei)，穿著(zhu)柔軟舒(shu)適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考樣衣及圖紙；

2、針距(ju)：11-13針/3cm明(ming)線(xian)跡，12-14針/3cm暗線(xian)跡。合縫用11#機針(zhen)，引線(xian)用9#機(ji)針；

3、線順(shun)色（特殊要求除外(wai)），面線用與身順(shun)色線；

4、各部位線(xian)(xian)路要(yao)順(shun)直，縫紉線(xian)(xian)跡30cm內(nei)不得有兩(liang)處單跳和連續跳針(zhen)，包縫線跡不允許跳針(zhen)。面(mian)、底線應松緊適宜，起(qi)落(luo)都要打(da)回針(zhen)；

5、袖子抽(chou)褶(zhe)：先在單衣片(pian)上抽(chou)褶(zhe)，然后再充(chong)絨納(na)線。抽(chou)褶(zhe)線與肩(jian)縫對縫；

6、汽(qi)眼加(jia)隔色墊布；

7、大(da)身拉鏈要求平整，不可起浪。門襟鏈拉頭(tou)要求左拉右插，緝0.1cm明線；

8、主標、小號釘在(zai)內(nei)里后中；水洗(xi)標在(zai)內(nei)里左側縫1/2處為(wei)標下口；

9、所(suo)有里子拼接縫要求(qiu)包縫；

10、袖口(kou)內面布為(wei)勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾(shi)明線(xian)先充(chong)絨后輯明線(xian)；

12、棉靠里布，帽子周圈走0.1cm明線(xian)，帽子(zi)前口0.1+2.5cm明線。帽(mao)子底(di)口(kou)0.1明線。帽(mao)縫帶(dai)帶(dai)條。具體納線參(can)考(kao)圖(tu)紙

13、肩縫、腋下(xia)、兜布加(jia)帶條；

14、半成品必(bi)須小燙(tang)(tang)，熨(yun)燙(tang)(tang)平服，無極光；

15、其他具(ju)體(ti)做法參考樣(yang)衣。