陽泉漂抿曲,亦稱抿曲、小河撈,是山西陽泉的一(yi)種傳統(tong)面食(shi)。陽泉抿曲是以綠豆(dou)摻少量精白面粉和面,經特制抿曲床(chuang)壓(ya)制而成(cheng)。煮熟(shu)后(hou)撈入各種調料配制成(cheng)的湯汁中即可(ke)飄起。它(ta)長如(ru)(ru)掛(gua)面,細如(ru)(ru)毛粉,清香利口,鮮味撲(pu)鼻,富有(you)營養(yang),風味別(bie)致,還具(ju)有(you)消(xiao)火消(xiao)暑之功(gong)效(xiao)。
明(ming)末清(qing)(qing)初(chu)的學界泰斗傅山先生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)也(ye)曾作《小河(he)撈記》對漂抿(min)曲(qu)大加(jia)贊賞(shang)。傅山先生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)曾發明(ming)了(le)養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)水(shui)和(he)面(mian)代替普通(tong)的水(shui)和(he)面(mian),如:春用枸(gou)杞、桑葚(shen)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),夏(xia)為(wei)(wei)黃耆、薏仁(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),秋用山藥、百合之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),冬為(wei)(wei)地黃、當(dang)歸之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)則用米(mi)脯(fu)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),間或連翹、雙(shuang)花、公英、炭白芨等(deng)等(deng)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)。由此形成了(le)漂抿(min)曲(qu)之(zhi)(zhi)博奧:“貴在(zai)絲,精在(zai)飄,味在(zai)湯(tang),養(yang)在(zai)面(mian),左右相承(cheng),合四時生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)不息。”漂抿(min)曲(qu)以(yi)綠豆粉(fen)為(wei)(wei)主要原料,李時珍《本草綱目(mu)》中稱綠豆為(wei)(wei)“食(shi)中要物,菜中佳品”,有(you)清(qing)(qing)熱(re)解毒、明(ming)目(mu)降(jiang)壓(ya)之(zhi)(zhi)功效,加(jia)之(zhi)(zhi)傅山養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),豆面(mian)漂抿(min)曲(qu)便成為(wei)(wei)了(le)一種養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)美(mei)食(shi)。可惜山城人卻沒能發揚光(guang)大。雖然現(xian)在(zai)許多飯店(dian)都(dou)有(you)漂抿(min)曲(qu)這道小食(shi),但(dan)沒有(you)做成養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)美(mei)食(shi),多少讓(rang)人感到遺(yi)憾。
漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲一般用(yong)豆面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作,用(yong)如掛面(mian)(mian)一樣細(xi)的(de)細(xi)抿(min)(min)曲床抿(min)(min)到開(kai)(kai)水鍋中(zhong)煮(zhu)熟(shu)(shu)后,把滾開(kai)(kai)的(de)煮(zhu)湯舀到已經下好(hao)佐料(liao)的(de)碗(wan)里(li),再把熟(shu)(shu)抿(min)(min)曲撈進碗(wan)里(li),抿(min)(min)曲就漂(piao)在(zai)碗(wan)里(li)的(de)面(mian)(mian)湯上了。所以(yi)叫“漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲”。漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲的(de)味(wei)道好(hao)不好(hao),抿(min)(min)曲能否漂(piao)起來(lai),秘密全(quan)在(zai)于放醬、醋、香(xiang)油、鹽、蔥、芫荽等佐料(liao)擱多少與先后次序中(zhong)。