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源于紅樓夢

《紅樓夢》誕生于18世紀中葉，它是滿漢文化、南北文化相互碰撞、吸收融合的典范，是中國明末清初時期貴族生活的真實歷史畫卷。就是在這部傲立于世界文學之林、被譽為中國封建社會“百科全書(shu)”的(de)鴻篇巨制中(zhong)，曹雪芹用了將近三分之(zhi)一(yi)的(de)篇幅，描述了眾(zhong)多(duo)人物豐富多(duo)彩的(de)飲食(shi)文(wen)化活動：“就(jiu)其(qi)(qi)規模而言(yan)(yan)，則有(you)大宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、盛宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)；就(jiu)其(qi)(qi)時間而言(yan)(yan)，則有(you)午宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、晚宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)；就(jiu)其(qi)(qi)內容而言(yan)(yan)，則有(you)生(sheng)(sheng)日宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、壽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、真壽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、省親宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、家宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、接(jie)風(feng)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、詩(shi)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、燈謎(mi)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、合歡宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、梅花(hua)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、海棠(tang)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、螃蟹宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)；就(jiu)其(qi)(qi)節令而言(yan)(yan)，則有(you)中(zhong)秋宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、端陽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、元宵(xiao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)；就(jiu)其(qi)(qi)設宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)地方面言(yan)(yan)，則又(you)有(you)勞園宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、太虛幻境(jing)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大觀園宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、怡紅院夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)等(deng)等(deng)，令人聞面生(sheng)(sheng)津”。通過(guo)各種各樣的(de)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)集，曹雪芹不僅為讀者(zhe)提(ti)供了一(yi)張未窮盡的(de)美(mei)食(shi)單，更重要的(de)是作者(zhe)為我(wo)們創造了一(yi)個(ge)完整的(de)紅樓飲食(shi)文(wen)化體系。

研究背景

曹家居南京、揚(yang)(yang)州60多(duo)年，飲(yin)(yin)食多(duo)為(wei)(wei)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)風(feng)味。曹寅(yin)編纂著述頗豐，有(you)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)飲(yin)(yin)食詩(shi)文(wen)問世(shi)。寅(yin)母為(wei)(wei)康(kang)熙乳娘，寅(yin)幼年為(wei)(wei)康(kang)熙侍讀，過從(cong)甚密(mi)。寅(yin)在(zai)(zai)揚(yang)(yang)州多(duo)次督辦(ban)御(yu)宴，熟諳要旨。雪(xue)芹(qin)幼年隨乃祖(zu)在(zai)(zai)任(ren)上(shang)，飲(yin)(yin)食之道，耳(er)濡目染皆為(wei)(wei)淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)佳味，而《紅樓夢》創作以“聲色飲(yin)(yin)饌之幻”來演示人(ren)生哲(zhe)理(li)，對淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)烹飪文(wen)化素材駕輕就熟，信手拈來皆成雅麗，令人(ren)嘆為(wei)(wei)觀止。當代紅學俊彥馮其庸(yong)、李希凡先(xian)生推論紅樓菜當屬淮(huai)揚(yang)(yang)風(feng)味。揚(yang)(yang)州與《紅樓夢》作者(zhe)曹雪(xue)芹(qin)及其家庭(ting)有(you)深(shen)厚的歷史(shi)淵源(yuan)，紅樓宴的開發(fa)責無(wu)旁貸地落在(zai)(zai)揚(yang)(yang)州烹飪文(wen)化界的肩(jian)上(shang)。

丁章(zhang)華先生運籌與推動紅(hong)樓(lou)宴(yan)研制，時(shi)歷二十春秋，組織精(jing)干(gan)，梳理史(shi)料，考察(cha)論證，方家研討，磨礪(li)提精(jing)，終成(cheng)大(da)器。紅(hong)樓(lou)宴(yan)的(de)設計立足于紅(hong)樓(lou)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)整體的(de)一(yi)部分進行再創造(zao)，以(yi)發(fa)揚(yang)光大(da)《紅(hong)樓(lou)夢》所代(dai)表的(de)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)傳統、審美意識、文(wen)(wen)化(hua)蘊含，對餐(can)(can)廳、音樂、餐(can)(can)具、服(fu)飾、菜點(dian)、茶飲(yin)等(deng)項(xiang)進行綜合設計，使人恍如置(zhi)身于《紅(hong)樓(lou)夢》中(zhong)的(de)大(da)觀園中(zhong)。紅(hong)樓(lou)菜以(yi)其美味、豐盛、精(jing)致見(jian)長，給人以(yi)高層次飲(yin)食文(wen)(wen)化(hua)藝術的(de)享受，名(ming)揚(yang)海(hai)內外。

紅樓宴菜單

一品大(da)觀：有鳳來(lai)儀(yi) 花塘情(qing)趣(qu) 蝴蝶戀花

四干果：栗子(zi)(zi)青果白瓜(gua)子(zi)(zi)生(sheng)仁

四調味：酸(suan)菜薺醬 蘿卜(bu)炸(zha)兒 茄鲞

賈(jia)府冷菜：紅袍大蝦 翡翠羽衣 胭脂鵝脯(fu)酒糟鴨(ya)信佛(fo)手羅(luo)皮(pi) 美味(wei)鴨(ya)蛋(dan) 素脆素魚 龍(long)穿(chuan)鳳翅

寧榮(rong)大菜：龍袍魚翅 白雪紅(hong)梅 老(lao)蚌懷珠 生烤鹿(lu)肉 籠蒸(zheng)螃蟹 西瓜盅酒(jiu)醉雞(ji) 花(hua)籃鱖魚卷(juan) 姥姥鴿蛋 雙色刀魚 扇(shan)面(mian)蒿稈(gan) 鳳衣串珠

怡紅(hong)細點：松仁鵝油卷 螃(pang)蟹小餃 如意鎖(suo)片(pian) 太君(jun)酥(su) 海棠酥(su) 壽桃(tao)

水果：時果拼盤 白(bai)雪紅梅 龍袍(pao)魚翅(chi) 老蚌懷珠 花藍(lan)鱖(gui)魚卷

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