采用小燕子收針法即:二針下針不變(bian),第五針與第三針合并(第五針在(zai)上),第六針與第四(si)針合并(第六針在(zai)上),
小包邊雞心領:
先(xian)合好兩(liang)(liang)個肩(jian)峰,在(zai)(zai)縫(feng)(feng)領子(zi)。先(xian)把(ba)廢紗在(zai)(zai)下,正面對(dui)(dui)著機器套(tao)口,領子(zi)作(zuo)兩(liang)(liang)個記號,對(dui)(dui)著兩(liang)(liang)個肩(jian)峰。前片的(de)(de)中間1針(zhen)對(dui)(dui)著領子(zi)的(de)(de)第1針(zhen),縫(feng)(feng)頭2針(zhen)或(huo)3針(zhen)但必須(xu)保持(chi)收針(zhen)邊余2針(zhen),保持(chi)兩(liang)(liang)側對(dui)(dui)稱。必須(xu)縫(feng)(feng)到1行(xing)里,領子(zi)的(de)(de)最后1針(zhen)必須(xu)和第1針(zhen)重在(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)起(qi),領子(zi)一(yi)(yi)針(zhen)對(dui)(dui)一(yi)(yi)針(zhen),不允許套(tao)斜,手工作(zuo)雞心。
雞心領的手工縫法:
右(you)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)對(dui)著左邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)(he)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。右(you)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)重(zhong)在(zai)左邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)二(er)(er)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)(he)和(he)(he)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。右(you)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)重(zhong)在(zai)左邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)三(san)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)(he)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)四針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。右(you)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)四針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)重(zhong)在(zai)左邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)四針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)(he)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)七行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。右(you)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)七行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)重(zhong)在(zai)左邊(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)五(wu)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)七行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)(he)第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)六針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)的第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)九行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。依次類推,針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)是一(yi)(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)挨一(yi)(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen),行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)是從第(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)四針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)開始隔行(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing),一(yi)(yi)(yi)直縫(feng)到領子的中間,然后(hou)把領子另一(yi)(yi)(yi)半三(san)角折進去對(dui)著手縫(feng)。
織衣的順序:后——前——袖——領——最后織其它。
袖籠減針數=領(ling)(ling)子(zi)(zi)停針(zhen)數=領(ling)(ling)子(zi)(zi)兩(liang)邊減針(zhen)(順(shun)便解決了領(ling)(ling)子(zi)(zi)針(zhen)數的問(wen)題。如果領(ling)(ling)口小,可適當增加(jia)2~3CM)
一般成人減(jian)5CM(女)~6CM(男),兒童減(jian)3~4CM 2、領子,袖籠減(jian)針規律(lv)是:1-4-1,2-3-1,2-2-N,2-1-1 3、袖肥針數(shu)=4*單側肩寬
袖子起針數=單(dan)側肩寬(即袖肥針數的1/4),2-4-1,2-3-1,2-2-N,2-3-1,2-4-1 5、前(qian)領開落尺(chi)寸=單(dan)側肩寬(成人一般常為3寸左右,可按(an)頭圍尺(chi)寸適當調整)
1、底(di)邊起針=(1/2胸圍(wei)-1厘米(mi))×橫密+縫(feng)耗(針)
2、身長(chang)(chang)行數=(身長(chang)(chang)-底邊(bian)羅紋)×直密
3、正身(shen)長行(xing)數=(身(shen)長-底邊羅(luo)紋-掛肩)×直密
4、肩(jian)寬針(zhen)數=肩(jian)寬×橫密縫耗(針(zhen))
5、掛肩總行數(shu)=掛肩長×直密
6、掛(gua)肩收針針數(shu)=(12胸圍針數(shu)-肩寬針數(shu))÷2:
7、掛肩收針方法:
平收3針~6針后,佘針一般每2行減1針,在7厘米(mi)~9厘米(mi)的高(gao)度(du)內,將(jiang)應收針數收完。
8、后(hou)領口(kou)針數=后(hou)領口(kou)寬(kuan)×橫密+縫耗(hao)(針)
9、單肩針(zhen)數(shu)=(肩寬針(zhen)數(shu)-后領口寬針(zhen)數(shu))÷2
10、肩坡每行收針針數=單肩針數÷肩高行數
1、底邊起(qi)針=(1/2胸圍+1厘米(mi))×橫密+縫耗(針)
2、身長(chang)行數,與后片(pian)“2”相同。
3、正身(shen)長行(xing)數,與后片“3”相(xiang)同。
4、肩寬針數,與后片“4”相同。
5、掛肩總行數(shu),與(yu)后片“5”相同。
6、掛肩收針針數,與后片(pian)“6”相同。
7、掛(gua)肩收(shou)針(zhen)方法:可比照后(hou)片(pian),但前片(pian)比后(hou)片(pian)多出1厘(li)米,收(shou)針(zhen)要比后(hou)片(pian)多收(shou)次。可在平收(shou)時,收(shou)掉這1厘(li)米的針(zhen)數。
編織袖片時,它的直(zhi)密(mi)(mi)和(he)橫(heng)密(mi)(mi)與(yu)原(yuan)密(mi)(mi)度略有差別:袖橫(heng)密(mi)(mi)=原(yuan)密(mi)(mi)度×125%袖直(zhi)密(mi)(mi)=愿密(mi)(mi)度×95%
1、袖口起(qi)針=袖寬×2×袖橫密+縫耗(針)
2、袖長(chang)行數=(袖長(chang)-袖口羅紋長(chang))×袖直密+縫耗(針)
3、袖(xiu)根針數=袖(xiu)根寬×2×袖(xiu)橫密+縫耗(針)
4、袖身每邊(bian)應加針數=(袖根針數-袖口針數)÷2
5、袖(xiu)身行(xing)數(shu)=袖(xiu)長(chang)行(xing)數(shu)-袖(xiu)山行(xing)數(shu)
6、袖(xiu)山行數=袖(xiu)長高×袖(xiu)直(zhi)密×+縫(feng)耗(針(zhen))
7、袖山單側(ce)收針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)數(shu)(shu)=(袖根針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)數(shu)(shu)-袖山寬針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)數(shu)(shu))÷2
1、領(ling)片(pian)針數=(領(ling)深×2+后領(ling)寬(kuan)+2厘米)×羅紋橫密(mi)
2、領(ling)片(pian)行數=領(ling)高(gao)×羅紋直(zhi)密(mi)
在做編織工藝時,有些規律性的尺寸關系及簡便計算方法可以(yi)借(jie)鑒:
1、一般成人袖(xiu)寬比掛(gua)肩少3厘米~3、5厘米,童裝袖(xiu)寬比掛(gua)肩少1、5厘米~2厘米。
2、一般男(nan)衫(shan)的袖(xiu)口(kou)寬(kuan)為21厘(li)(li)米(mi)(mi)~24厘(li)(li)米(mi)(mi),女(nv)衫(shan)的袖(xiu)口(kou)寬(kuan)為17厘(li)(li)米(mi)(mi)~21厘(li)(li)米(mi)(mi)。
3、編織袖片(pian)時,若加針(zhen)(zhen),宜先快后慢,若減針(zhen)(zhen),則先慢后快。
4、成(cheng)人(ren)的袖山高尺寸一(yi)般為12厘米~14厘米。
5、袖山收針(zhen)行數(shu)接近于前(qian)、后片掛肩(jian)的(de)收針(zhen)行數(shu)。
6、為編織(zhi)操作簡便,一般后(hou)領口可不(bu)予考(kao)慮。
7、后(hou)領口(kou)寬一般為(wei)肩寬的1/3、
用您所(suo)選(xuan)好的(de)(de)針和(he)線(xian),按您所(suo)選(xuan)定的(de)(de)花紋來編織織成(cheng)一個10平(ping)方厘米的(de)(de)小(xiao)樣片,再對照衣服(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)大小(xiao),您就知道您的(de)(de)衣服(fu)(fu)要起多少針了。
根據線的粗(cu)細不同,我分別例(li)出3、3平方(fang)厘米(一寸見方(fang))的針數和(he)行(xing)數。以供大家(jia)參考:
粗線(xian)(xian):寬(kuan)以(yi)(yi)7-8針,長以(yi)(yi)8-10行中粗線(xian)(xian):寬(kuan)以(yi)(yi)9針,長以(yi)(yi)10-11行
細線:寬以(yi)11針(zhen)(zhen),長以(yi)12-14行注意(yi):根據花(hua)型的密度不同,一般會有(you)1-2針(zhen)(zhen)的誤(wu)差,操作時適當加(jia)針(zhen)(zhen)、減針(zhen)(zhen)。
其實毛線(xian)一(yi)般是(shi)按針數來定尺寸的,按粗細程度大致可(ke)分為(wei)(wei)三種:一(yi)是(shi)高(gao)粗線(xian):編(bian)織時(shi)(shi)寬以7-8針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi)(1寸)左右,長以8-10針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi)左右,二(er)是(shi)中粗線(xian),寬以9針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi),長以10-11針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi),三是(shi)細線(xian),寬以11針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi),長以12-14針為(wei)(wei)3.3厘(li)(li)米(mi)。用這三種線(xian)編(bian)織花(hua)(hua)樣(yang)時(shi)(shi),一(yi)般會有1-2針的誤差,因此要(yao)根據花(hua)(hua)型的密度適(shi)當(dang)地加(jia)針或減針。
有一個比較(jiao)直觀、準(zhun)確的(de)計算(suan)方法,就是試驗法:用選擇好(hao)的(de)針和線(xian)先(xian)起20針,按你(ni)需要(yao)的(de)花樣編織3.3厘米(mi)后,用尺子量具體的(de)尺寸,然后以(yi)此為標(biao)準(zhun)去推算(suan)毛衣的(de)尺寸。
具體的(de)方法(fa)是將(jiang)人的(de)身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)同分為(wei)(wei)(wei)高、中(zhong)、矮三個類型:高(1.75米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)以上(shang))男套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)寬為(wei)(wei)(wei)97厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)左右(2.9尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)77厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)左右(2.3尺(chi)(chi)(chi))高(1.70米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)以上(shang))女(nv)套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)寬為(wei)(wei)(wei)90厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.7尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)70厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.1尺(chi)(chi)(chi))中(zhong)1.65-1.75米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi))男套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)90厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.7尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)70厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.1尺(chi)(chi)(chi))中(zhong)(1.60-1.70米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi))女(nv)套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)80厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.4尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)63厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(1.9尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),矮(1.65米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)以下(xia)(xia))男套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)寬為(wei)(wei)(wei)83厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.5尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)65厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(1.95尺(chi)(chi)(chi))矮(1.60米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)以下(xia)(xia))女(nv)套衫,身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)寬為(wei)(wei)(wei)73厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(2.2尺(chi)(chi)(chi)),身(shen)(shen)(shen)(shen)長(chang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)60厘(li)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(1.8尺(chi)(chi)(chi))。
開衫的身寬是套衫的身寬加7厘米左右(2寸),身長要加3.3厘米左右(1寸),外套的身寬(kuan)是套衫的身寬(kuan)加13.3厘(li)米(mi)左右(you)(4寸),衣(yi)長(chang)則根(gen)據個人愛好或款式(shi),可長(chang)可短(duan)。根(gen)據年(nian)齡(ling)不同(tong)老年(nian)人可適當加放寬(kuan)度。
1、量三圍(wei)(wei)的尺寸:胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei),腰圍(wei)(wei),臀圍(wei)(wei)。
2、起(qi)針織一小(xiao)塊,比(bi)如30*30,計算所需(xu)的行數,針數。
3、算出三圍的(de)針數,下(xia)擺到腰(yao)部的(de)行數,腰(yao)部到胸(xiong)圍的(de)行數。
4、確(que)定每(mei)幾行(xing)(xing)收(shou)(shou)針(zhen),共(gong)收(shou)(shou)幾針(zhen),比如,腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)是(shi)80針(zhen),下擺100針(zhen),胸(xiong)圍(wei)98針(zhen),下擺到(dao)(dao)腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)是(shi)40行(xing)(xing),腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)到(dao)(dao)胸(xiong)圍(wei)是(shi)56行(xing)(xing),腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)需(xu)收(shou)(shou)10針(zhen),每(mei)4行(xing)(xing)收(shou)(shou)1針(zhen),收(shou)(shou)10次,腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)到(dao)(dao)胸(xiong)圍(wei)加(jia)(jia)(jia)9針(zhen),6行(xing)(xing)加(jia)(jia)(jia)1針(zhen),加(jia)(jia)(jia)9次。
5、一般說,下擺到腰部收針比較快,腰部到胸圍加(jia)針稍微慢一點(dian)。
6、可以用(yong)自己比較合身的衣物量尺(chi)寸(cun)。