品質特點
瑞(rui)草魁的品質特點是,外形挺直(zhi)略扁,肥(fei)碩飽滿(man),大小勻齊(qi),形狀一(yi)致(zhi),色澤翠綠,白毫隱現(xian),香(xiang)氣高(gao)長,清香(xiang)持(chi)久,湯(tang)色淡黃綠,清澈明亮(liang),滋(zi)味鮮醇爽口,回味儀雋厚,葉底(di)嫩綠明亮(liang),均勻成朵。
產地
茶中奇葩(pa)瑞草魁(kui)產于皖南山區郎(lang)縣以南姚村鄉白陽崗,在省級(ji)風景區石佛山的南邊與舉世聞名(ming)的黃山、九(jiu)華山在同一緯度線(xian)上,這里旅游資源豐富(fu)、植被(bei)率(lv)高、溫(wen)濕(shi)氣候(hou)、雨量充(chong)沛、氣候(hou)條件有利各類動植物沙生長(chang)。
唐(tang)朝(chao)貢(gong)茶"瑞草(cao)魁(kui)(kui)"就(jiu)生(sheng)長在(zai)白(bai)陽(yang)崗景區里,鴉山陽(yang)坡白(bai)陽(yang)崗海拔高(gao)度487米,古樹(shu)參天、林蒼(cang)竹翠、溪(xi)水叮咚、云霧繚(liao)繞(rao),茶地黑色(se)礫砂土(tu),特別適宜茶生(sheng)長,茶樹(shu)為(wei)自然野生(sheng),十(shi)分獨特,可(ke)采鮮葉面積8千(qian)余畝,成品茶形射扁挺(ting)直(zhi)如雀舌,大小勻齊、色(se)澤翠綠、白(bai)毫隱現(xian)、香(xiang)氣高(gao)長、清(qing)香(xiang)持久、湯色(se)淡黃綠、清(qing)澈明亮、滋味鮮醇爽口、回味雋厚、實(shi)為(wei)名(ming)茶中精(jing)品,自唐(tang)至宋、明、清(qing)"瑞草(cao)魁(kui)(kui)"史料記載詳實(shi),唐(tang)代詩人杜枚贊(zan)其"山實(shi)東(dong)吳(wu)秀,茶稱瑞草(cao)魁(kui)(kui)"。
名字的由來
"山實(shi)東吳秀,茶(cha)(cha)稱(cheng)瑞草魁,剖符雖俗史,修(xiu)貢亦仙才(cai)"。這是唐代(dai)詩人杜(du)牧《題茶(cha)(cha)山》詩中的精粹(cui)名句,以(yi)贊譽茶(cha)(cha)之佳品--瑞草魁。
歷史
古宣州(zhou)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)產(chan)茶(cha),唐(tang)代(dai)陸羽(yu)《茶(cha)經》中(zhong)就(jiu)有記載(zai)。瑞草(cao)(cao)魁產(chan)于安徽南(nan)(nan)部的(de)(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha),屬(shu)歷史名(ming)茶(cha)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上有古鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)街(jie)遺址(zhi),鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺為(wei)(wei)當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)創制地。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)天(tian)目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一支(zhi)南(nan)(nan)北走向的(de)(de)余(yu)脈(mo),海拔(ba)446米鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)天(tian)目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一支(zhi)南(nan)(nan)北走向的(de)(de)余(yu)脈(mo),東與廣(guang)德的(de)(de)相華尖并立,南(nan)(nan)與寧國的(de)(de)高峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)對(dui)峙,北與南(nan)(nan)漪湖相望,西連宣州(zhou)的(de)(de)碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉(quan)洞,古屬(shu)宣城,今(jin)屬(shu)郎溪,處在(zai)郎溪與宣城交界處。五代(dai)蜀(shu)毛文(wen)錫《茶(cha)譜》記載(zai):"宣城縣有丫山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),小方餅橫(heng)鋪茍牙(ya)裝(zhuang)面。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)東為(wei)(wei)朝日所燭(zhu),號曰陽坡(po),其茶(cha)最勝(sheng),太守嘗薦于京洛(luo)人(ren)士,題曰丫山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)"。北宋梅堯(yao)臣《答宣城張主簿遺鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)次其韻》詩云:"昔觀唐(tang)人(ren)詩,茶(cha)韻鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)嘉,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)銜茶(cha)子生(sheng),遂(sui)同山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),重以初槍旗,采(cai)之穿煙(yan)霞,江南(nan)(nan)雖盛產(chan),處處無(wu)此茶(cha),纖嫩如(ru)雀舌,煎烹(peng)比露(lu)芽,競收青蒻焙(bei),不重漉酒紗……"明代(dai)王象(xiang)晉《群(qun)芳譜》指明:"丫山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha),一名(ming)瑞草(cao)(cao)魁"。明代(dai)曹學佺《名(ming)勝(sheng)志》云:"鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)在(zai)脊山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北,產(chan)茶(cha),充(chong)貢茶(cha)。經云:味(wei)與蘄州(zhou)同。梅詢有茶(cha)煮鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)雪滿(man)甌之句"。到(dao)了(le)(le)清代(dai),記述鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)的(de)(de)史料(liao)就(jiu)更多了(le)(le)。
瑞草魁因其茶(cha)樹品種(zhong)主側脈交角偏(pian)大,形(xing)似橫(heng)向紋理,故名橫(heng)紋茶(cha)。又因產于(yu)鴉(ya)山,又稱鴉(ya)山茶(cha)。早在千年前就(jiu)名噪全國,實屬我(wo)國歷史名茶(cha)中(zhong)的(de)奇葩。鴉(ya)山為(wei)(wei)天目山脈一去南(nan)北走向的(de)余脈,東(dong)(dong)與(yu)相(xiang)華尖(廣德市(shi))并立,南(nan)與(yu)高峰山(寧國縣(xian)(xian))對峙,北與(yu)南(nan)漪湖(hu)相(xiang)望(wang),西連碧山龍(long)泉洞(dong)(宣(xuan)州(zhou)市(shi))旅(lv)游區(qu)。古(gu)屬宣(xuan)城(cheng)縣(xian)(xian)管轄,后曾幾度變動,現處郎溪縣(xian)(xian)姚村(cun)(cun)和宣(xuan)州(zhou)市(shi)水東(dong)(dong)之間的(de)接壤(rang)地(di)帶(dai)。鴉(ya)山茶(cha)產于(yu)該山東(dong)(dong)面(mian)陽坡郎溪境內,據近(jin)人實地(di)考察發現,郎溪縣(xian)(xian)姚村(cun)(cun)鄉永豐村(cun)(cun)境內有古(gu)鴉(ya)山寺和鴉(ya)山待遺地(di),他們認為(wei)(wei),鴉(ya)山寺為(wei)(wei)當時(shi)鴉(ya)山茶(cha)創制地(di)。
清(qing)代寧國縣張(zhang)所勉在《鴉山(shan)(shan)辨》中寫道(dao):"按一統志,鴉山(shan)(shan)產(chan)茶(cha)舊常(chang)入貢(gong)(gong),屬建(jian)平(ping),故辨之"。郎溪(xi)縣古稱建(jian)平(ping)縣,始建(jian)于宋端(duan)拱(gong)元年(nian)(公(gong)元998年(nian))。清(qing)代談遷(qian)《棗(zao)林雜(za)俎》和(he)阿(a)世坦《清(qing)會典》都(dou)記(ji)有(you)(you)建(jian)平(ping)縣歲貢(gong)(gong)芽(ya)茶(cha)二十(shi)五(wu)斤,因(yin)郎溪(xi)縣無其他歷史名茶(cha),這(zhe)(zhe)里的(de)貢(gong)(gong)茶(cha)即指瑞草(cao)魁(kui)。又據清(qing)《宣城縣志》記(ji)載:"陽坡山(shan)(shan)下,舊產(chan)佳茶(cha),名瑞草(cao)魁(kui),一名橫(heng)紋(wen)","水東(dong)(dong)之東(dong)(dong),有(you)(you)象山(shan)(shan)、獅山(shan)(shan)、石壁山(shan)(shan)、雙峰(feng)山(shan)(shan)(古名丫山(shan)(shan))產(chan)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)。"這(zhe)(zhe)就把橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)產(chan)地,由鴉山(shan)(shan)陽坡向西擴展到水東(dong)(dong)以東(dong)(dong)的(de)山(shan)(shan)區。據宣州市(shi)有(you)(you)關部門在水東(dong)(dong)鎮(zhen)碧山(shan)(shan)、汪村、前進等自然村調查,發現有(you)(you)樹(shu)齡(ling)50年(nian)以上(shang)的(de)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)品種。
綜(zong)上(shang)所述瑞草魁作為古代(dai)貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha),產(chan)于鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽(yang)(yang)坡,應是(shi)無疑的。但由于自唐以來(lai)盛名不(bu)(bu)衰,其產(chan)區不(bu)(bu)限于鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)也是(shi)順(shun)理之(zhi)事。至(zhi)于水東橫紋茶(cha)(cha)和鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)橫紋茶(cha)(cha),孰(shu)先孰(shu)后,尚無史料可查證。而(er)鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽(yang)(yang)坡橫紋茶(cha)(cha)之(zhi)佳(jia)名,卻是(shi)不(bu)(bu)能否定(ding)的史實。現(xian)今(jin)之(zhi)瑞草魁即為1985~1986年(nian)間(jian)于郎溪縣姚村永豐村境內的鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)所創(chuang)制(zhi)。
采摘與制作
瑞草(cao)(cao)魁(kui)于清明至谷(gu)雨(yu)間開采(cai),開始采(cai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)芽(ya)一(yi)(yi)(yi)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),芽(ya)長于葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),制(zhi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)等(deng)茶(cha)(cha);中期采(cai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)芽(ya)二(er)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)初(chu)展,芽(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)基本(ben)等(deng)長,制(zhi)二(er)等(deng)茶(cha)(cha),后(hou)期一(yi)(yi)(yi)芽(ya)三葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),制(zhi)三等(deng)茶(cha)(cha)。要求不(bu)采(cai)魚(yu)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)病(bing)蟲為害(hai)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)紫色芽(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)不(bu)符標準的芽(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。采(cai)茶(cha)(cha)時應(ying)輕采(cai)輕放(fang),防止損傷芽(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。一(yi)(yi)(yi)般上午采(cai),及時送回,攤放(fang)4~6小(xiao)時即可付制(zhi)。瑞草(cao)(cao)魁(kui)的制(zhi)造分殺青、理(li)條做(zuo)形、烘(hong)焙三道(dao)工序。
理條做(zuo)形:鍋(guo)溫70~80℃,開始以(yi)抖為主,適當失水(shui)(shui),約炒2分鐘(zhong),含水(shui)(shui)量下(xia)降到40%左右(you)(you),茶(cha)(cha)(cha)條不粘手時,邊理邊搓邊抖散,三種手勢交替(ti)進行。搓條手法以(yi)雙手合(he)抱茶(cha)(cha)(cha)葉向(xiang)前單向(xiang)搓滾,搓滾數次,隨(sui)著(zhu)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)條逐漸干燥,理條、搓滾用力應靈活掌(zhang)握(wo),保持(chi)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)條完(wan)整、挺直、帶扁(bian)。當茶(cha)(cha)(cha)葉含水(shui)(shui)率降到25%左右(you)(you),即(ji)可出鍋(guo)烘焙。
烘(hong)(hong)(hong)焙(bei):分頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)、二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)要求一只(zhi)(zhi)鍋(guo)配四只(zhi)(zhi)烘(hong)(hong)(hong)籠,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)溫(wen)(wen)由90℃→80℃→70℃→60℃依次降低,每只(zhi)(zhi)烘(hong)(hong)(hong)3~4分鐘,全(quan)程(cheng)約12~16分鐘。烘(hong)(hong)(hong)到茶葉(xie)刺手,即(ji)(ji)可下烘(hong)(hong)(hong)攤涼,剔(ti)除劣異,再行二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)采用文火低溫(wen)(wen)慢烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。以發展(zhan)茶香,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)溫(wen)(wen)60℃左右(you),投葉(xie)量0.5公斤,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)到足干(gan),即(ji)(ji)中攤涼,即(ji)(ji)可攤涼裝罐。