百善硬面大(da)卷(juan)不(bu)同于一(yi)般(ban)的大(da)卷(juan)。首(shou)先(xian)是它的“硬”;用手按不(bu)出(chu)凹坑,攥在拳中不(bu)變形(xing)(xing)(xing),像磚頭塊似(si)的。再者是“大(da)”:正宗的大(da)卷(juan)一(yi)般(ban)長7厘米,寬3厘米,高 15厘米,一(yi)個足有四(si)兩(liang)多。其次是它的形(xing)(xing)(xing)狀:上方為橋(qiao)拱圓弧形(xing)(xing)(xing),下邊為四(si)方形(xing)(xing)(xing)。
硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)制作工藝相當(dang)繁雜。往年沒有(you)磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機(ji),石磨推出(chu)的(de)小麥面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,頭破面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)用(yong)銅(tong)絲(si)羅二遍,使面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉又(you)(you)白又(you)(you)細(xi),做(zuo)出(chu)的(de)大卷(juan)才(cai)能(neng)光(guang)亮不(bu)走(zou)形(xing)(xing)。當(dang)天早上(shang)(shang)能(neng)上(shang)(shang)市(shi)的(de)大卷(juan),頭天晚上(shang)(shang)就要(yao)開(kai)始和發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),凌晨2點就得(de)起床開(kai)始顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時撒(sa)一(yi)層干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),把干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)進(jin)發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后,再撒(sa)一(yi)層干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再繼續(xu)顫(zhan)。這(zhe)樣要(yao)反復六(liu)七遍,直至把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)得(de)提起來(lai)不(bu)下墜,放下來(lai)不(bu)走(zou)形(xing)(xing)為止(zhi)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)費工費時,勞動強度(du)大,又(you)(you)要(yao)把握面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)干濕軟硬(ying)程(cheng)度(du),是制作硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)關鍵技(ji)巧。為減輕(qing)雙(shuang)手(shou)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)勞動強度(du),有(you)人發明了在面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案一(yi)頭栓根木棒(bang),把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放在棒(bang)下,用(yong)雙(shuang)手(shou)壓木棒(bang)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)技(ji)巧。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工序完成后,接著要(yao)做(zuo)出(chu)一(yi)排排上(shang)(shang)圓下方的(de)“饃(mo)基子”,用(yong)鋒利的(de)菜刀快速切出(chu)個頭均勻的(de)大卷(juan)。大卷(juan)入鍋(guo)幾分鐘后,要(yao)開(kai)鍋(guo)蓋查看,發現(xian)走(zou)形(xing)(xing)的(de)要(yao)及早整形(xing)(xing),然后燒旺火,一(yi)氣呵成。