楊凌(ling)(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)是(shi)陜西一種(zhong)地(di)方(fang)小(xiao)吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)白(bai)薄筋光(guang)、油汪(wang)蒜辣香(xiang)、湯(tang)(tang)面(mian)(mian)分盆裝(zhuang)、越嚼(jiao)口(kou)越香(xiang)。楊凌(ling)(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)的面(mian)(mian)和湯(tang)(tang)是(shi)分開的,吃(chi)的時候從(cong)大面(mian)(mian)盆里夾(jia)出寬厚且長的面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)拉到(dao)碗里的湯(tang)(tang)中(zhong),然后(hou)夾(jia)著(zhu)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一口(kou)一口(kou)地(di)咬著(zhu)吃(chi)。
陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)點菜(cai)請(qing)客(ke),多為涼菜(cai),少不(bu)得鳳翔臘驢(lv)肉,普集燒雞,西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)鄉牛肉干,老童(tong)家(jia)臘牛肉,三(san)原白(bai)封肉,寶雞葵花雞等,可(ke)以(yi)不(bu)上(shang)(shang)一(yi)個(ge)熱菜(cai),冬(dong)天亦吃(chi)得鼻(bi)尖冒汗,而(er)我卻若滿(man)腹(fu)凝(ning)霜(shuang)。于(yu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),熱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)浩(hao)浩(hao)蕩蕩上(shang)(shang)來了,之(zhi)(zhi)所以(yi)使用(yong)浩(hao)蕩二字(zi),實因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)小臉盆(pen)里端(duan)上(shang)(shang)來的(de)(de)(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)陜(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)這里當然(ran)(ran)就叫(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)裝面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)而(er)非(fei)洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)贛南則(ze)真的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),洗臉就叫(jiao)洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)端(duan)上(shang)(shang)來,熱汽騰(teng)騰(teng),菜(cai)青(qing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白(bai),又(you)波清(qing)霧白(bai),各人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前就上(shang)(shang)了一(yi)只大碗(wan),碗(wan)中(zhong)就有(you)(you)湯,西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)紅柿(shi)、蛋花、姜、蒜(suan)、紅辣(la)(la)(la)(la)椒、口蘑、玉蘭片、海參(can)、干貝等,微(wei)酸,略辣(la)(la)(la)(la),就從大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)里夾(jia)出寬厚且(qie)長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao),泡(pao)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)湯中(zhong),然(ran)(ran)后夾(jia)著(zhu)(zhu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)口一(yi)口地(di)咬(yao)吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬(yao)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)口里,滑(hua)潤,富(fu)彈性,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)張力的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)種,像咬(yao)著(zhu)(zhu)三(san)秦大地(di)的(de)(de)(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)若干口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就得吃(chi)一(yi)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯里青(qing)菜(cai),這樣就又(you)清(qing)爽(shuang)上(shang)(shang)陣了。 住在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)楊(yang)(yang)凌若干天,方理(li)解吃(chi)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)妙處,其實是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個(ge)清(qing)爽(shuang)。獨吃(chi)一(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾(ji)束青(qing)菜(cai),碗(wan)中(zhong)可(ke)叫(jiao)湯也可(ke)以(yi)叫(jiao)稍子,與油(you)潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)意境正好相反,那油(you)潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重油(you)、巨辣(la)(la)(la)(la),全盤傲視川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)姿態,陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)說(shuo):川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)嘴上(shang)(shang),陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)心里。意思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)辣(la)(la)(la)(la)椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)得響(xiang),而(er)陜(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)得響(xiang)。人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)(you)各的(de)(de)(de)(de)可(ke)愛罷,如(ru)川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔(dan)(dan)擔(dan)(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)籮擔(dan)(dan)之(zhi)(zhi)想,然(ran)(ran)細(xi)碗(wan)一(yi)握(wo),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細(xi)如(ru)絲,恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)另一(yi)極(ji)端(duan)。然(ran)(ran)又(you)有(you)(you)一(yi)發現(xian),楊(yang)(yang)凌人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也包括(kuo)西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)(an)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大盆(pen)使之(zhi)(zhi),其狀(zhuang)非(fei)魯智生不(bu)可(ke)比(bi),然(ran)(ran)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)且(qie)瘦,楊(yang)(yang)凌是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)座瘦城(cheng)(cheng),看(kan)上(shang)(shang)去西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)(an)也是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)座瘦城(cheng)(cheng),比(bi)之(zhi)(zhi)肥城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)京(jing),已經是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)俊(jun)秀若江南了,也許(xu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)小一(yi)些的(de)(de)(de)(de)原因。 吃(chi)罷楊(yang)(yang)凌蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)農林(lin)大學(xue)古農史家(jia)樊志民先(xian)生,獲知:西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)亞考(kao)古,小麥(mai)(mai)有(you)(you)史8千(qian)至(zhi)1萬年,中(zhong)國考(kao)古,甘肅小麥(mai)(mai)已有(you)(you)五千(qian)年,武功則(ze)有(you)(you)3千(qian)8百年。多數農史學(xue)家(jia)認定小麥(mai)(mai)由西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)亞傳(chuan)入,先(xian)西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)而(er)黃淮地(di)區種植,古時小麥(mai)(mai)不(bu)叫(jiao)小麥(mai)(mai),叫(jiao)“來”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫(xie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)那個(ge)“來”,大麥(mai)(mai)且(qie)叫(jiao)“麰”。巨獲益,坦(tan)坦(tan)然(ran)(ran)飽腹(fu)而(er)歸。
第一(yi)步(bu):面(mian)粉加入淡鹽水,用手揉成光滑的面(mian)條,醒上十來分鐘再揉一(yi)次。
第二(er)步:小(xiao)白菜(cai)、苜(mu)蓿(xu)或者芹菜(cai)等洗凈切(qie)(qie)好,西紅柿切(qie)(qie)塊,大蔥切(qie)(qie)丁(ding),雞(ji)蛋打散。
第三(san)步:把面趕(gan)成(cheng)一張大面片,切(qie)成(cheng)3-5cm寬的(de)面條待用,蓋上(shang)濕布醒十來(lai)分鐘
第四步:把蔥姜蒜等在鍋里爆炒(chao),加入西紅柿翻炒(chao),待西紅柿略化開加入適量水,煮開加入鹽、味(wei)精、胡椒(jiao)粉、醬油等。
第五步:燒(shao)水下(xia)面(mian)條,下(xia)面(mian)條時用力拉面(mian)條至原(yuan)來的2倍(bei)多,再(zai)反復的用力彈(dan)面(mian),把面(mian)的韌性(xing)釋放(fang),放(fang)入鍋中,鍋里(li)面(mian)第一次開鍋后,放(fang)入小白菜(cai)、苜蓿(xu)或者芹菜(cai)等,再(zai)次開鍋可以盛出;
第六(liu)步:把做好(hao)的湯汁盛在碗(wan)中(zhong)加入辣椒(jiao)油和香油,面條(tiao)一根根撈(lao)到碗(wan)里食用!