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庖廚祖師

易(yi)牙(ya)何許(xu)人(ren)也，齊國彭城（今天的(de)江蘇(su)徐州）人(ren)。

易牙(ya)是(shi)第(di)一(yi)(yi)個運(yun)用(yong)調(diao)(diao)和之事操作(zuo)烹飪的(de)庖廚，好(hao)調(diao)(diao)味，很善(shan)于做菜(cai)。因為(wei)他(ta)是(shi)廚師出身(shen)，烹飪技藝(yi)很高，他(ta)又是(shi)第(di)一(yi)(yi)個開私(si)人飯館的(de)人，所以他(ta)被廚師們稱作(zuo)祖師。王充《論衡·譴告》說(shuo)：“狄牙(ya)之調(diao)(diao)味也，酸(suan)則沃(澆)之以水(shui)，淡則加之以成，水(shui)火相變易，故膳(shan)無(wu)咸(xian)淡之失也。”即(ji)(ji)易牙(ya)通過水(shui)、咸(xian)(鹽)、火的(de)調(diao)(diao)和使用(yong)，做出酸(suan)咸(xian)合宜，美味適口的(de)飯菜(cai)來。舊彭城(今江蘇徐州(zhou))流傳有(you)詩(shi)：“雍巫(wu)善(shan)味祖彭鏗(keng)(keng)(雍巫(wu)：即(ji)(ji)易牙(ya)，彭鏗(keng)(keng)：即(ji)(ji)彭祖)，三坊(fang)求師古彭城。九會諸侯(hou)任(ren)司庖(九會諸侯(hou)：指齊桓公“九合諸侯(hou)，一(yi)(yi)匡天下。”庖：廚房，司庖，即(ji)(ji)管飲食(shi)的(de)官)，八盤五簋宴王公(簋：盛(sheng)食(shi)物的(de)容器(qi))。”

易牙與齊(qi)國彭城(今徐州)的(de)淵源(yuan)使他(ta)留名(ming)于(yu)今日的(de)飲(yin)食文化中。齊(qi)國菜是(shi)我國最(zui)早的(de)地方風味(wei)菜，后來(lai)成(cheng)為中國的(de)四大菜系之一(yi)(魯(lu)菜)，以其(qi)味(wei)鮮咸脆嫩、風味(wei)獨特、制作精細享(xiang)譽海內外(wai)。易牙對魯(lu)菜的(de)形成(cheng)無疑(yi)是(shi)有功的(de)。

后世人撰寫(xie)食(shi)經(jing)之類的(de)(de)作(zuo)品，托(tuo)名(ming)(ming)易(yi)牙也是(shi)(shi)常見的(de)(de)。例如(ru)：明(ming)代人韓奕，曾經(jing)以造、脯(fu)、蔬菜、籠造、爐造、糕餅(bing)、齋食(shi)、諸(zhu)湯和諸(zhu)藥八類內容編成一書(shu)(shu)，書(shu)(shu)名(ming)(ming)就托(tuo)稱(cheng)為《易(yi)牙遺(yi)(yi)意》。另外，明(ming)代人周履靖著《續易(yi)牙遺(yi)(yi)意》，也是(shi)(shi)托(tuo)名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)仿古食(shi)經(jing)之作(zuo)。

烹子獻糜

一(yi)次桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)對易牙(ya)(ya)說(shuo)：“寡人(ren)嘗遍(bian)天下(xia)美味，唯(wei)獨未食(shi)人(ren)肉(rou)(rou)，倒為(wei)憾(han)事。”桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)此言本是無(wu)心(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)戲言，而(er)易牙(ya)(ya)卻(que)把這話牢記在心(xin)(xin)，一(yi)心(xin)(xin)想著(zhu)賣(mai)弄好(hao)自己(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)本事，好(hao)博(bo)得桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)歡(huan)心(xin)(xin)。國君何等(deng)尊(zun)貴，絕不能(neng)食(shi)用死(si)囚、平民之肉(rou)(rou)。后(hou)來他看見自己(ji)(ji)4歲的(de)(de)兒(er)(er)子(zi)(zi)，選(xuan)了用自己(ji)(ji)兒(er)(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)(rou)。桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)在一(yi)次午膳上，喝到(dao)一(yi)小金(jin)鼎(ding)鮮嫩(nen)無(wu)比，從未嘗過的(de)(de)肉(rou)(rou)湯，便詢問易牙(ya)(ya)：“此系何肉(rou)(rou)？”易牙(ya)(ya)哭(ku)著(zhu)說(shuo)是自己(ji)(ji)兒(er)(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)(rou)，為(wei)祈(qi)國君身體安泰無(wu)虞，殺子(zi)(zi)以獻(xian)主公(gong)(gong)。當(dang)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)得知這是易牙(ya)(ya)兒(er)(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)(rou)時，內心(xin)(xin)很是不舒服，卻(que)被易牙(ya)(ya)殺子(zi)(zi)為(wei)自己(ji)(ji)食(shi)的(de)(de)行為(wei)所(suo)感(gan)動，認為(wei)易牙(ya)(ya)愛他勝過親骨肉(rou)(rou)，從此桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)寵信易牙(ya)(ya)。

管仲遺訓

易牙(ya)(ya)和管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)同時(shi)在齊(qi)(qi)國(guo)(guo)(guo)作(zuo)事(shi)。周(zhou)襄王七(qi)年(nian)(nian)(公元前645年(nian)(nian))，為(wei)(wei)(wei)齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公創立(li)霸業(ye)嘔(ou)心瀝血(xue)的(de)(de)管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)患了(le)(le)重病，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公去探望他，詢問(wen)他誰(shui)可(ke)(ke)以(yi)接受相位(wei)。管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo)：“國(guo)(guo)(guo)君應該是最了(le)(le)解(jie)臣(chen)下的(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公欲(yu)任鮑(bao)叔牙(ya)(ya)，管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)誠懇地(di)說(shuo)(shuo)：“鮑(bao)叔牙(ya)(ya)是君子，但他善惡(e)過于分(fen)明，見人(ren)(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)一惡(e)，終身不忘，這(zhe)樣是不可(ke)(ke)以(yi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)政(zheng)的(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公問(wen)：“易牙(ya)(ya)怎(zen)樣？”管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo)：“易牙(ya)(ya)為(wei)(wei)(wei)了(le)(le)滿足(zu)國(guo)(guo)(guo)君的(de)(de)要求不惜烹(peng)了(le)(le)自己的(de)(de)兒子以(yi)討好國(guo)(guo)(guo)君，沒(mei)有人(ren)(ren)性(xing)，不宜為(wei)(wei)(wei)相。請國(guo)(guo)(guo)君務必(bi)(bi)疏遠易牙(ya)(ya)、衛(wei)開方(fang)、豎(shu)刁(diao)這(zhe)三個人(ren)(ren)，寵信(xin)他們(men)，國(guo)(guo)(guo)家必(bi)(bi)亂。”管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo)罷，見齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公面露難色，便向他推薦(jian)了(le)(le)為(wei)(wei)(wei)人(ren)(ren)忠厚，不恥下問(wen)、居家不忘公事(shi)的(de)(de)隰(xi)(xi)朋，說(shuo)(shuo)隰(xi)(xi)朋可(ke)(ke)以(yi)幫(bang)助國(guo)(guo)(guo)君管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)理國(guo)(guo)(guo)政(zheng)。遺憾的(de)(de)是，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公并(bing)沒(mei)有聽進管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)話。易牙(ya)(ya)聽說(shuo)(shuo)齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公與(yu)管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)這(zhe)段對話，便去挑撥鮑(bao)叔牙(ya)(ya)，說(shuo)(shuo)管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)阻止齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公任命鮑(bao)叔牙(ya)(ya)。鮑(bao)叔牙(ya)(ya)笑道：“管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)薦(jian)隰(xi)(xi)朋，說(shuo)(shuo)明他一心為(wei)(wei)(wei)社稷宗廟考慮，不存私心偏愛友(you)人(ren)(ren)。現在我(wo)做司寇，驅逐佞臣(chen)，正合我(wo)意。如果(guo)讓我(wo)當政(zheng)，哪里還(huan)會有你們(men)容身之(zhi)(zhi)處？”易牙(ya)(ya)討了(le)(le)個沒(mei)趣，深覺管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)交友(you)之(zhi)(zhi)密，知人(ren)(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)深，于是灰溜溜地(di)走了(le)(le)。不久管(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)病逝。齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公也就(jiu)將(jiang)易牙(ya)(ya)等三人(ren)(ren)撤職(zhi)，永遠不準入朝(chao)。

但過(guo)了三(san)年(nian)，齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)不(bu)見三(san)人(ren)，感覺吃東西都(dou)沒有滋(zi)味了，說：「仲父（管(guan)仲）不(bu)已過(guo)孚？」于是又召(zhao)三(san)人(ren)回宮(gong)(gong)(gong)。第(di)二(er)年(nian)，齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)得(de)重病 ，易(yi)牙與豎刁等(deng)擁立(li)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子(zi)無(wu)(wu)虧(kui)，迫使太(tai)子(zi)昭奔宋，齊(qi)國五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子(zi)因此發生內(nei)戰。易(yi)牙等(deng)堵(du)塞宮(gong)(gong)(gong)門，假傳君(jun)命(ming)，不(bu)許任(ren)何人(ren)進宮(gong)(gong)(gong)。有二(er)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)女乘人(ren)不(bu)備，越(yue)墻入宮(gong)(gong)(gong)，探望(wang)齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)；桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)正餓(e)得(de)發慌，索取食物。宮(gong)(gong)(gong)女便把易(yi)牙、豎刁作亂，堵(du)塞宮(gong)(gong)(gong)門，無(wu)(wu)法(fa)供應飲食的(de)情況(kuang)告訴了齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)，桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)悔(hui)之晚(wan)矣(yi)，終(zhong)被餓(e)死。后來，齊(qi)人(ren)殺了作亂的(de)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子(zi)無(wu)(wu)虧(kui)，立(li)太(tai)子(zi)昭為君(jun)，即齊(qi)孝公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)。經過(guo)這場內(nei)亂，齊(qi)國的(de)霸業開(kai)始衰(shuai)落(luo)。中原霸業逐漸移到了晉國。

傳說易牙干政失敗后避居(ju)彭(peng)城(cheng)，操烹飪業至(zhi)終，而易牙食療菜在彭(peng)城(cheng)(今徐(xu)州)廣為流傳。

易牙雖有“殺(sha)子以適君”，并參與發動政變(bian)，被后(hou)人所(suo)唾棄(qi)，但易牙作為廚(chu)藝的(de)化身，已深深融(rong)入了中華民族源(yuan)遠流長的(de)飲食文化中。