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庖廚祖師

易牙何許人也，齊(qi)國彭城(cheng)（今天的江(jiang)蘇徐(xu)州）人。

易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)是(shi)第(di)一(yi)個運用調(diao)和之(zhi)事(shi)操作(zuo)烹(peng)(peng)飪的(de)庖廚，好(hao)調(diao)味(wei)(wei)，很善于做菜(cai)(cai)。因為(wei)他是(shi)廚師出(chu)身，烹(peng)(peng)飪技藝很高，他又(you)是(shi)第(di)一(yi)個開私人(ren)飯(fan)館的(de)人(ren)，所以(yi)他被廚師們稱作(zuo)祖(zu)(zu)師。王充《論衡·譴(qian)告(gao)》說：“狄(di)牙(ya)之(zhi)調(diao)味(wei)(wei)也(ye)，酸(suan)則(ze)沃(澆)之(zhi)以(yi)水，淡則(ze)加之(zhi)以(yi)成，水火相(xiang)變易(yi)(yi)，故膳無咸(xian)淡之(zhi)失也(ye)。”即易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)通過水、咸(xian)(鹽(yan))、火的(de)調(diao)和使用，做出(chu)酸(suan)咸(xian)合宜，美味(wei)(wei)適口的(de)飯(fan)菜(cai)(cai)來(lai)。舊(jiu)彭(peng)城(今江(jiang)蘇徐州(zhou))流傳(chuan)有詩(shi)：“雍巫善味(wei)(wei)祖(zu)(zu)彭(peng)鏗(keng)(雍巫：即易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)，彭(peng)鏗(keng)：即彭(peng)祖(zu)(zu))，三坊求師古彭(peng)城。九(jiu)會諸侯任司(si)庖(九(jiu)會諸侯：指齊桓(huan)公“九(jiu)合諸侯，一(yi)匡天下。”庖：廚房，司(si)庖，即管飲食(shi)的(de)官)，八盤五(wu)簋宴王公(簋：盛食(shi)物(wu)的(de)容器)。”

易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)與齊(qi)國(guo)(guo)彭城(今徐州)的(de)淵(yuan)源使他留名于(yu)今日(ri)的(de)飲食文化中。齊(qi)國(guo)(guo)菜(cai)(cai)是我國(guo)(guo)最早的(de)地(di)方風味(wei)菜(cai)(cai)，后(hou)來(lai)成為中國(guo)(guo)的(de)四大菜(cai)(cai)系(xi)之(zhi)一(魯(lu)菜(cai)(cai))，以(yi)其味(wei)鮮咸脆(cui)嫩、風味(wei)獨特、制(zhi)作精細享譽海內外(wai)。易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)對(dui)魯(lu)菜(cai)(cai)的(de)形成無疑是有功的(de)。

后(hou)世人撰寫(xie)食(shi)經之(zhi)類(lei)的作品，托名(ming)(ming)易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)也是常見的。例(li)如：明代人韓奕(yi)，曾經以(yi)造(zao)、脯、蔬(shu)菜、籠造(zao)、爐造(zao)、糕餅、齋食(shi)、諸湯和諸藥八類(lei)內(nei)容編(bian)成一書(shu)，書(shu)名(ming)(ming)就托稱為《易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)遺(yi)意(yi)》。另外，明代人周履靖著《續易(yi)(yi)牙(ya)遺(yi)意(yi)》，也是托名(ming)(ming)的仿古食(shi)經之(zhi)作。

烹子獻糜

一次(ci)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)對易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)說：“寡(gua)人嘗遍天(tian)下美(mei)味，唯獨未食(shi)(shi)人肉(rou)，倒為憾(han)事。”桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)此言(yan)(yan)本是(shi)無心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)戲言(yan)(yan)，而易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)卻把這(zhe)話牢記在心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)，一心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)想著賣弄(nong)好自(zi)己(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)本事，好博(bo)得(de)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)歡心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)。國君何(he)等尊(zun)貴，絕不能食(shi)(shi)用死囚、平(ping)民之肉(rou)。后來(lai)他看見(jian)自(zi)己(ji)(ji)4歲的(de)(de)兒子(zi)，選了(le)用自(zi)己(ji)(ji)兒子(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)。桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)在一次(ci)午膳上(shang)，喝(he)到一小金鼎鮮嫩無比，從(cong)未嘗過的(de)(de)肉(rou)湯，便詢問易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)：“此系何(he)肉(rou)？”易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)哭著說是(shi)自(zi)己(ji)(ji)兒子(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)，為祈國君身體安泰無虞，殺子(zi)以獻主(zhu)公(gong)(gong)。當(dang)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)得(de)知這(zhe)是(shi)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)兒子(zi)的(de)(de)肉(rou)時(shi)，內心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)很是(shi)不舒(shu)服，卻被易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)殺子(zi)為自(zi)己(ji)(ji)食(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)行為所感動，認為易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)愛(ai)他勝過親骨肉(rou)，從(cong)此桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)寵信易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)。

管仲遺訓

易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)和管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)同時(shi)在齊(qi)(qi)國作事(shi)(shi)。周襄王七年(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)前645年)，為(wei)齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)創立(li)霸業嘔心(xin)瀝血的(de)(de)(de)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)患了重病(bing)，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)去探望他(ta)(ta)，詢問(wen)他(ta)(ta)誰可以接受相位。管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)：“國君應該是最了解臣(chen)下的(de)(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)欲任鮑叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)，管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)誠懇地說(shuo)：“鮑叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)是君子，但他(ta)(ta)善惡過于(yu)分明(ming)，見人之一惡，終(zhong)身(shen)不(bu)(bu)(bu)忘，這樣是不(bu)(bu)(bu)可以為(wei)政的(de)(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)問(wen)：“易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)怎樣？”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)：“易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)為(wei)了滿足國君的(de)(de)(de)要求不(bu)(bu)(bu)惜烹(peng)了自己的(de)(de)(de)兒(er)子以討好國君，沒(mei)有人性，不(bu)(bu)(bu)宜(yi)為(wei)相。請國君務必疏遠(yuan)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)、衛開方、豎(shu)刁這三個人，寵信他(ta)(ta)們，國家必亂。”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)罷，見齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)面露難(nan)色，便向他(ta)(ta)推(tui)薦(jian)了為(wei)人忠(zhong)厚，不(bu)(bu)(bu)恥(chi)下問(wen)、居家不(bu)(bu)(bu)忘公(gong)(gong)事(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng)，說(shuo)隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng)可以幫助國君管(guan)(guan)理國政。遺憾的(de)(de)(de)是，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)并沒(mei)有聽(ting)進(jin)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)話。易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)聽(ting)說(shuo)齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)與(yu)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)這段對話，便去挑撥鮑叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)，說(shuo)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)阻止齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)任命鮑叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)。鮑叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)笑道：“管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)薦(jian)隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng)，說(shuo)明(ming)他(ta)(ta)一心(xin)為(wei)社稷宗廟考慮，不(bu)(bu)(bu)存(cun)私心(xin)偏愛友人。現在我(wo)做(zuo)司寇，驅(qu)逐佞(ning)臣(chen)，正合我(wo)意。如果讓我(wo)當(dang)政，哪里還會有你們容(rong)身(shen)之處(chu)？”易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)討了個沒(mei)趣，深覺管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)交友之密，知人之深，于(yu)是灰溜溜地走了。不(bu)(bu)(bu)久管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)病(bing)逝。齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)也就將(jiang)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)等三人撤職，永(yong)遠(yuan)不(bu)(bu)(bu)準入朝(chao)。

但過了(le)三年(nian)，齊(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)不(bu)見三人，感覺吃東西(xi)都沒有(you)滋味了(le)，說：「仲(zhong)父（管仲(zhong)）不(bu)已過孚？」于(yu)是又召三人回宮(gong)(gong)。第二(er)年(nian)，齊(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)得(de)重病 ，易(yi)牙(ya)與豎刁等(deng)擁立公(gong)(gong)子(zi)(zi)無虧，迫使太(tai)子(zi)(zi)昭奔宋，齊(qi)(qi)(qi)國五公(gong)(gong)子(zi)(zi)因此發生內戰。易(yi)牙(ya)等(deng)堵(du)塞宮(gong)(gong)門(men)(men)，假(jia)傳君命(ming)，不(bu)許任(ren)何(he)人進宮(gong)(gong)。有(you)二(er)宮(gong)(gong)女(nv)乘人不(bu)備，越(yue)墻入宮(gong)(gong)，探(tan)望(wang)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)；桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)正(zheng)餓(e)(e)得(de)發慌(huang)，索(suo)取(qu)食(shi)物。宮(gong)(gong)女(nv)便把易(yi)牙(ya)、豎刁作亂(luan)(luan)(luan)，堵(du)塞宮(gong)(gong)門(men)(men)，無法供應飲食(shi)的(de)情況告訴(su)了(le)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)，桓(huan)(huan)公(gong)(gong)悔之晚(wan)矣，終(zhong)被餓(e)(e)死。后來，齊(qi)(qi)(qi)人殺了(le)作亂(luan)(luan)(luan)的(de)公(gong)(gong)子(zi)(zi)無虧，立太(tai)子(zi)(zi)昭為君，即齊(qi)(qi)(qi)孝公(gong)(gong)。經過這場(chang)內亂(luan)(luan)(luan)，齊(qi)(qi)(qi)國的(de)霸業開(kai)始衰(shuai)落。中原霸業逐漸(jian)移到了(le)晉國。

傳說易牙干政失敗(bai)后避居彭(peng)城，操烹飪業至終，而易牙食療菜在彭(peng)城(今(jin)徐(xu)州)廣為流傳。

易牙(ya)(ya)雖有“殺子以適君(jun)”，并參與發動政變(bian)，被后(hou)人所唾棄，但易牙(ya)(ya)作為廚藝的(de)化身，已(yi)深深融入了中華民族源遠流長的(de)飲(yin)食文化中。