倒馬關,因山(shan)路險峻,戰馬到此經常要摔倒而得名。
原關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)全(quan)長約2.5公里,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池占地(di)約7萬平方(fang)米,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻底寬(kuan)6米,頂(ding)寬(kuan)4米,高約10米。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為條石和自然(ran)石加(jia)青磚筑成,東西(xi)(xi)(xi)二門(men)(men)上有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou),外以(yi)溝壕環繞,南(nan)(nan)面(mian)依山(shan),北(bei)(bei)臨唐(tang)河,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)上列敵樓(lou)(lou)臺(tai)(tai)7座(zuo)(zuo)。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)有(you)(you)東、西(xi)(xi)(xi)、北(bei)(bei)三(san)個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men),東門(men)(men)稱“居仁(ren)”,西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)稱“由(you)(you)羲”,北(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)稱“宣威”。東西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)外各設(she)甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),東甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設(she)有(you)(you)南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)二門(men)(men)。西(xi)(xi)(xi)甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)僅設(she)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)一座(zuo)(zuo),出南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)往(wang)西(xi)(xi)(xi)約百米處唐(tang)河岸邊(bian)設(she)水關(guan)(guan)戰(zhan)臺(tai)(tai)樓(lou)(lou)一座(zuo)(zuo),樓(lou)(lou)下設(she)有(you)(you)關(guan)(guan)門(men)(men),是由(you)(you)下城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通往(wang)上城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的惟一通道。北(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)外原設(she)戰(zhan)臺(tai)(tai)樓(lou)(lou)一座(zuo)(zuo),民國二十八(ba)年被洪水沖毀。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內正(zheng)街寬(kuan)12米,十字(zi)街正(zheng)中原來建有(you)(you)兩層的閱兵樓(lou)(lou),樓(lou)(lou)上設(she)有(you)(you)十字(zi)通道,樓(lou)(lou)北(bei)(bei)為官署所(suo)在地(di),有(you)(you)大堂(tang)、二堂(tang)、三(san)堂(tang)。
乘(cheng)坐661路至“倒(dao)馬(ma)關”站下
倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)置關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)較早,《戰國策》稱其為鴻上(shang)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan),漢稱常山關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。但目前可見(jian)到(dao)的關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)于(yu)(yu)修建(jian)(jian)倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的記載,都是明朝的。倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)分上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)下城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)是明洪(hong)武初年(nian)(nian)修建(jian)(jian)的,后(hou)(hou)改(gai)名上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)口;下城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)即(ji)今(jin)倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。現倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)鄉政(zheng)府院內(nei),保存著(zhu)一(yi)塊已從中(zhong)折斷(duan)的漢白玉(yu)石(shi)碑,為《倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)建(jian)(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)碑》。碑文記載了1465年(nian)(nian)修建(jian)(jian)倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的情況。由此可知,倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)始建(jian)(jian)于(yu)(yu)1452年(nian)(nian),后(hou)(hou)又于(yu)(yu)1465年(nian)(nian)又進行(xing)了一(yi)次大規模的修建(jian)(jian)。倒(dao)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)約2.5公里,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)底寬(kuan)6米(mi),頂寬(kuan)4米(mi),高約10米(mi),墻(qiang)為黃土(tu)夯筑(zhu)外砌磚石(shi)。關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東、西、北設(she)有3個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門。關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)設(she)計獨特,它依峭壁(bi),傍深(shen)澗,一(yi)半(ban)在溝谷,一(yi)半(ban)在山上(shang),整座關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依地(di)勢(shi)而建(jian)(jian),唐河水由西、北、東三面環(huan)繞(rao)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)而流。山、水、關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在這里相(xiang)得(de)益彰,互為險阻。古人謀略之(zhi)(zhi)深(shen),設(she)防之(zhi)(zhi)嚴,建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)之(zhi)(zhi)奇,令人嘆為觀止。
據(ju)《畿(ji)輔通志》記載,倒馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)在(zai)河(he)(he)北(bei)唐縣西北(bei)60公(gong)里,山路(lu)險(xian)峻,馬(ma)為之倒,故而得(de)名(ming)。倒馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)位(wei)于太行山東(dong)麓,北(bei)臨內長城(cheng),背靠(kao)唐河(he)(he)。東(dong)南為險(xian)要的十(shi)八(ba)盤嶺。自古以來,倒馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)就(jiu)為戰略要沖(chong)。據(ju)《后漢(han)書》記載,建武十(shi)五(公(gong)元39年)年,因匈奴常(chang)犯東(dong)漢(han)北(bei)部邊(bian)境,東(dong)漢(han)政府遷徙雁門、代郡(jun)、上谷三(san)郡(jun)居民于常(chang)山關(guan)(guan)(guan)(倒馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan))、居庸關(guan)(guan)(guan)以東(dong)地(di)方居住,防(fang)止匈奴的侵(qin)擾(rao),由此可見倒馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的屏障作用。
倒馬關(guan)處于一條古(gu)老的(de)(de)通(tong)道上(shang),這條道稱(cheng)為“靈(ling)丘(qiu)道”。《魏書·高祖紀》載(zai),太和六年(公元482年)曾(ceng)調集州郡5萬人修治(zhi)靈(ling)丘(qiu)道。靈(ling)丘(qiu)道北(bei)起平城(山(shan)西(xi)大同市東北(bei)),南越(yue)恒山(shan),自靈(ling)丘(qiu)以(yi)下,略循今(jin)唐河(he)谷道出太行山(shan),南抵中山(shan)(今(jin)河(he)北(bei)定(ding)縣),是當時山(shan)西(xi)高原(yuan)北(bei)部通(tong)向(xiang)華北(bei)平原(yuan)的(de)(de)交通(tong)要(yao)(yao)道,倒馬關(guan)就是這條道路上(shang)的(de)(de)重要(yao)(yao)關(guan)隘。
明朝(chao)馬(ma)(ma)中錫《倒馬(ma)(ma)關詩并序》中說:“關有兩(liang)山(shan)對(dui)峙,其路極(ji)險,相傳楊(yang)六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang)到此馬(ma)(ma)踣,故名。”后(hou)人(ren)為(wei)紀念楊(yang)延昭(六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang))鎮(zhen)守三關的功績(ji),于明正德十(shi)五年(nian)(nian)(公元1520年(nian)(nian)),在(zai)倒馬(ma)(ma)關城西(xi)3公里的馬(ma)(ma)圈山(shan)上修建(jian)了(le)“六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang)碑(bei)”。碑(bei)通體高1.8米(mi),寬(kuan)60厘米(mi),為(wei)漢白玉雕鑿而成,碑(bei)額抹角(jiao)及兩(liang)邊雕云(yun)紋花邊圖案。碑(bei)文為(wei):“宋將(jiang)楊(yang)六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang)拒守之處。”楊(yang)延昭是并州(zhou)(今山(shan)西(xi)太原(yuan))人(ren),宋真宗時為(wei)保(bao)州(zhou)(今河北保(bao)定)緣邊都巡檢(jian)使(shi)(shi),后(hou)因與遼兵作(zuo)戰(zhan)有功升為(wei)保(bao)州(zhou)防御使(shi)(shi)。楊(yang)延昭在(zai)邊防鎮(zhen)守20余年(nian)(nian),遼兵甚為(wei)畏懼,千百年(nian)(nian)來,許多文人(ren)學士(shi)到倒馬(ma)(ma)關憑吊六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang)碑(bei),稱頌吟懷楊(yang)六(liu)郎(lang)(lang)(lang)威鎮(zhen)邊關的不(bu)朽(xiu)業績(ji)。