金上京南北(bei)(bei)二城現有北(bei)(bei)城北(bei)(bei)垣1門(men),東垣1門(men),西垣1門(men),腰垣2門(men),南城南垣2門(men),除腰垣東側門(men)址處,均帶有甕(weng)城遺跡。這些甕(weng)門(men)多為轉角(jiao)形,是為了增強城門(men)正面防御力(li)量(liang)的(de)重要設施。
金上京會寧府遺址(zhi)屬全(quan)國重點文物保(bao)護單位。
所保(bao)(bao)留的遺址(zhi)是(shi)金(jin)(jin)(jin)世宗大定年間修(xiu)復的遺跡(ji)(ji)。以南(nan)(nan)北(bei)二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)和皇城(cheng)(cheng)內的建筑址(zhi)保(bao)(bao)存比較好。南(nan)(nan)北(bei)二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)均呈長方形狀,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)周(zhou)長22里。金(jin)(jin)(jin)上(shang)(shang)京的城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)為(wei)夯(hang)土型建筑,墻(qiang)表砌有青磚,但(dan)青磚已(yi)被當地(di)居民拆(chai)毀殆盡。城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)至今仍高3-5米(mi),個(ge)(ge)(ge)別地(di)段(duan)高達7米(mi),基闊在7-10米(mi)左(zuo)右,殘垣(yuan)斷壁處(chu)(chu)黑黃土相間的夯(hang)層痕跡(ji)(ji)和夯(hang)花依然清晰可辨。全城(cheng)(cheng)外垣(yuan)平均每(mei)隔八O至-百(bai)三十米(mi)左(zuo)右不(bu)等,就有一處(chu)(chu)馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)突出(chu)(chu)(chu)墻(qiang)表,現有馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)89個(ge)(ge)(ge),環城(cheng)(cheng)原(yuan)有馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)總數(shu)約92個(ge)(ge)(ge)。其中(zhong)北(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)垣(yuan)有11個(ge)(ge)(ge),南(nan)(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)垣(yuan)有16個(ge)(ge)(ge),二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)垣(yuan)29個(ge)(ge)(ge),東垣(yuan)(包括南(nan)(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)垣(yuan)突出(chu)(chu)(chu)部分)24處(chu)(chu)有28個(ge)(ge)(ge)(其中(zhong)有兩處(chu)(chu)每(mei)處(chu)(chu)2個(ge)(ge)(ge),有一處(chu)(chu)為(wei)3個(ge)(ge)(ge)),二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)的5個(ge)(ge)(ge)突出(chu)(chu)(chu)角亦已(yi)經不(bu)存在,這樣環城(cheng)(cheng)原(yuan)有馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)總數(shu)約92個(ge)(ge)(ge)。馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)在古代(dai)作戰時,主要起防御(yu)(yu)作用(yong)(yong)。金(jin)(jin)(jin)上(shang)(shang)京城(cheng)(cheng)的馬(ma)(ma)面(mian)(mian)比較集中(zhong)在南(nan)(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)的西(xi)垣(yuan)與南(nan)(nan)垣(yuan),說明當時主要足為(wei)了(le)防御(yu)(yu)皇城(cheng)(cheng)的安全面(mian)(mian)設置的。另外,在金(jin)(jin)(jin)上(shang)(shang)京城(cheng)(cheng)外垣(yuan)四壁之下,出(chu)(chu)(chu)土了(le)大量(liang)的擂石和鐵箭(jian)簇(cu),說明金(jin)(jin)(jin)上(shang)(shang)京的守衛主要足用(yong)(yong)矢石進(jin)行防御(yu)(yu)。
南北二城(cheng)的(de)(de)外垣周(zhou)圍和(he)(he)腰(yao)垣南側均有(you)(you)(you)護(hu)城(cheng)壕遺(yi)跡,至今(jin)大部分地段仍深如溝壑,這里是(shi)筑城(cheng)取(qu)土的(de)(de)同時(shi)挖掘而成的(de)(de),可能是(shi)引從上京(jing)西來的(de)(de)小河之(zhi)水(shui)入壕,以利防(fang)守,在光(guang)緒年(nian)間,壕中尚有(you)(you)(you)積水(shui)。 據文獻記載,金(jin)上京(jing)故城(cheng)內的(de)(de)宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)名稱很多,見(jian)于(yu)(yu)(yu)金(jin)太宗時(shi)的(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)乾(qian)元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、明(ming)德宮;見(jian)于(yu)(yu)(yu)金(jin)熙(xi)宗時(shi)的(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)慶元宮,敷德殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、宵衣(yi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(寢殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、稽古殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(書殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、重明(ming)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五云樓、祥曦殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等;見(jian)于(yu)(yu)(yu)海陵王時(shi)的(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)勤政殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、泰和(he)(he)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、武德殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、永壽(shou)宮、永寧宮;見(jian)于(yu)(yu)(yu)金(jin)世宗復(fu)修后(hou)的(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)慶元宮。光(guang)興宮、光(guang)德殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、皇(huang)武殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等。此外,還載有(you)(you)(you)明(ming)德殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、時(shi)令殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍(long)壽(shou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、奎文殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。此外還有(you)(you)(you)術廟(miao)、社稷、孔廟(miao)、儲慶寺等。
金(jin)上京會(hui)寧府遺址,俗稱白城(cheng),位于阿(a)城(cheng)區南郊2公里,張(zhang)廣才嶺西(xi)麓大青山腳下(xia),阿(a)什河左岸,依山傍(bang)水。是(shi)女(nv)真族建立(li)的金(jin)帝(di)國(guo)的早(zao)期都城(cheng),歷(li)經金(jin)太(tai)祖、太(tai)宗、熙宗、海陵王(wang)四代皇(huang)帝(di),作為金(jin)王(wang)朝(chao)的政治(zhi)、軍事(shi)、經濟、文化中(zhong)心達(da)38年之久。因其(qi)又是(shi)金(jin)上京路和會(hui)寧府的治(zhi)所,故稱。
金上(shang)京城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)仿照北宋都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)規模(mo)建(jian)筑,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市布局與汴(bian)京(今開封)基本相(xiang)同(tong),規模(mo)宏偉,雄渾壯(zhuang)觀。由毗(pi)連的(de)南(nan)北二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和(he)皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組成。南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)略大(da)于北城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)均為長(chang)方(fang)形,平(ping)面上(shang)一縱一橫相(xiang)互銜接,連為一體,二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)整(zheng)個外(wai)圍周(zhou)長(chang)為11公里。雖經800余年(nian)的(de)風雨剝蝕和(he)戰爭破壞,其(qi)夯土(tu)版筑的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)(yuan)仍高達3~5米(mi),頹垣(yuan)(yuan)基闊7~10米(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻斷(duan)面處(chu),夯土(tu)層痕跡(ji)依然清晰可辨(bian)。外(wai)垣(yuan)(yuan)平(ping)均每隔70~120米(mi)筑一馬面。在全城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)5個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)角(jiao)上(shang)各(ge)構(gou)筑角(jiao)樓一處(chu),為城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻上(shang)的(de)重(zhong)(zhong)點防御工事。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門9處(chu),其(qi)中7處(chu)帶有(you)甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)及二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)間(jian)的(de)腰垣(yuan)(yuan)南(nan)側(ce),均有(you)護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)壕。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)則建(jian)于南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)偏西處(chu),周(zhou)長(chang)近2.5公里。自(zi)南(nan)向(xiang)北有(you)五(wu)重(zhong)(zhong)宮殿基址(zhi)整(zheng)齊(qi)地排列(lie)在皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)北中軸線上(shang),東西兩(liang)側(ce)還有(you)回廊遺址(zhi)。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門兩(liang)側(ce)有(you)兩(liang)個高約(yue)7米(mi)的(de)土(tu)阜,對峙而(er)立,稱(cheng)為闕。兩(liang)大(da)土(tu)阜間(jian)又(you)有(you)兩(liang)個小土(tu)阜,各(ge)高約(yue)3米(mi)。大(da)小土(tu)阜間(jian)是(shi)皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門的(de)3條(tiao)通道,中為正(zheng)門(午門),兩(liang)側(ce)為左右闕門。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)布局規整(zheng)、嚴(yan)謹(jin)。
據史書記載(zai),太祖(zu)阿(a)骨打(da)稱(cheng)(cheng)帝時,只設氈帳(稱(cheng)(cheng)皇帝寨(zhai)),晚年(nian)始筑(zhu)宮殿(dian)。金太宗(zong)天會(hui)二年(nian)(1124)始建(jian)(jian)南(nan)城(cheng)內(nei)的(de)(de)皇城(cheng),初(chu)名為(wei)(wei)(wei)會(hui)寧州。金太宗(zong)建(jian)(jian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)都城(cheng),升為(wei)(wei)(wei)會(hui)寧府。天眷元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(1138)八月,金熙(xi)宗(zong)以京(jing)師為(wei)(wei)(wei)上京(jing),府曰會(hui)寧,開始有上京(jing)之稱(cheng)(cheng)。皇統六年(nian)(1146)春,仿照北宋都城(cheng)汴(bian)京(jing)的(de)(de)規模進(jin)行(xing)了一(yi)次大規模的(de)(de)擴(kuo)建(jian)(jian),奠定了南(nan)北二城(cheng)的(de)(de)雛形。貞元(yuan)(yuan)元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(1153)海陵王遷都于燕(yan)京(jing),正隆二年(nian)(1157)削(xue)上京(jing)之號(hao)(hao),并毀宮殿(dian)廟(miao)宇。金世宗(zong)大定十三年(nian)(1173)七月,又重新恢復(fu)了上京(jing)稱(cheng)(cheng)號(hao)(hao),成為(wei)(wei)(wei)金朝的(de)(de)陪都。大定二十一(yi)年(nian)金世宗(zong)復(fu)建(jian)(jian)上京(jing)城(cheng)。兩年(nian)后,又內(nei)外(wai)砌(qi)青磚(zhuan)。清初(chu),此城(cheng)磚(zhuan)石砌(qi)筑(zhu)的(de)(de)城(cheng)墻(qiang)外(wai)表保存尚好,后“城(cheng)之樓(lou)堞”為(wei)(wei)(wei)阿(a)勒楚喀(ka)副都統拆(chai)運去建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)阿(a)城(cheng)(今縣治),遂毀。