天鵝絨是什么面料
天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong),即漳絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。因起源于中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)福建(jian)省漳州地區(qu)而得名。明(ming)代已有大量生(sheng)產,是中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)傳統織物(wu)之一。天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)素(su)(su)來(lai)是傳統的(de)(de)(de)秋(qiu)裝流行(xing)面料,它奢華的(de)(de)(de)氣質和(he)(he)豐(feng)富的(de)(de)(de)紋理營(ying)造出魔法般的(de)(de)(de)時尚(shang)氛圍。天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)面料均采用(yong)高配以上的(de)(de)(de)優質棉紗制(zhi)成(cheng),主要(yao)有素(su)(su)色、印花(hua)、提花(hua)和(he)(he)抽條、色織以及爛花(hua)幾個系列。素(su)(su)天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)表面全部絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈,花(hua)天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)則是將部分(fen)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈按花(hua)紋割斷(duan)成(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛與絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈相間,構成(cheng)花(hua)紋。天(tian)鵝絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)的(de)(de)(de)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛或絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈緊密聳立,色光文(wen)雅,堅牢耐磨,可用(yong)于制(zhi)做服裝、帽(mao)子和(he)(he)裝飾物(wu)。
天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong),在明清兩代最為(wei)興盛,有(you)花天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)和素(su)天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)二種(zhong)。花天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)是指(zhi)將部(bu)分絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按花紋割斷(duan)成絨(rong)(rong)毛,使之與未斷(duan)的線圈(quan)聯同構(gou)成紋樣(yang);而(er)素(su)天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)則其表面全為(wei)絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。一般天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)用(yong)蠶絲(si)作原(yuan)料或(huo)作經(jing)線,以棉紗(sha)作緯線,再以桑蠶絲(si)(或(huo)人造絲(si))起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。織(zhi)造時(shi),每(mei)織(zhi)四根絨(rong)(rong)線便織(zhi)入一根起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)桿(即細鐵絲(si)),織(zhi)到一定長度時(shi)即在機(ji)上(shang)用(yong)割刀沿鐵絲(si)剖(pou)割,即成毛絨(rong)(rong)。毛絨(rong)(rong)如何(he)起(qi)是依紋樣(yang)設計。構(gou)成織(zhi)物的紋樣(yang)有(you)兩種(zhong)形式:一是絨(rong)(rong)花緞(duan)地(di)、即漳緞(duan);一是絨(rong)(rong)地(di)緞(duan)花,即天(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)。其特點是少(shao)有(you)織(zhi)地(di),有(you)單(dan)、雙色,或(huo)嵌金銀線
天鵝絨面料的優缺點
一、優點
1、天鵝絨絨毛豐(feng)滿,質地細膩,手感柔(rou)軟,穿(chuan)著舒(shu)適,美觀大方。有彈性,不掉毛,不起(qi)球,吸水性能好,是全棉產品的三倍,而且對皮膚無任(ren)何(he)刺激。
2、天(tian)鵝絨的絨毛或絨圈緊密聳立(li),色光(guang)文雅,織物(wu)堅(jian)牢耐磨,不(bu)易褪色,回(hui)力彈性好。
3、天鵝(e)絨產品(pin)要(yao)求品(pin)級要(yao)高、線密度(du)要(yao)小(xiao)、長度(du)長、成熟(shu)度(du)好(hao)的細(xi)長絨優質棉。
4、天鵝(e)絨細膩的(de)(de)觸感(gan)、流通的(de)(de)垂(chui)墜感(gan)和高雅的(de)(de)光(guang)澤依然是其(qi)他布(bu)料無(wu)法比擬的(de)(de),因而一直是時裝描(miao)繪師們華貴布(bu)中的(de)(de)摯愛挑選。
二、缺點
1、不經意(yi)地堆疊天(tian)鵝絨服裝(zhuang),很容易(yi)損壞絨毛(mao)的天(tian)然走(zou)向,很難康復,容易(yi)有靜電(dian)。
2、因為天(tian)鵝絨(rong)本身的特(te)性,表面(mian)為密密麻麻的小(xiao)絨(rong)毛組成,在(zai)面(mian)料(liao)生產及加工過程中(zhong),會殘(can)留一些小(xiao)絨(rong)毛顆粒在(zai)衣服上,這是不可避免(mian)。一般(ban)在(zai)前幾次的洗滌中(zhong)會沖洗出來(lai),尤其是黑色(se)、寶藍、碳灰等(deng)深色(se)系的衣服會特(te)別明顯一些。