縫紉機線跡的種類
縫紉機線(xian)跡的(de)分類(lei)形式很多,1979年(nian),國際標準化組(zu)織對線(xian)跡的(de)種(zhong)類(lei),編(bian)號(hao)進行了規定,將(jiang)標準線(xian)跡分為(wei)6大類(lei):
100類-鏈式線跡
200類(lei)-仿手工線跡
300類(lei)-瑣式線跡
400類-多線鏈式線跡
500類(lei)-包縫線(xian)跡
600類-覆蓋線跡
100類中(zhong)最常(chang)用的是101和(he)103兩種。101和(he)103都(dou)是是單線鏈式線跡,103常(chang)用于暗線挑縫(feng)。
300中(zhong)最(zui)常(chang)用(yong)的(de)是(shi)301,304,308和(he)320。其(qi)中(zhong)301稱單針平(ping)縫線跡,又是(shi)最(zui)最(zui)常(chang)用(yong)的(de)線跡,304兩點人字線跡,308三點人字線跡,比301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最(zui)常用的有(you)504,505,512,514。504和505都是三線(xian)包(bao)縫(feng)線(xian)跡。504廣泛用于制衣業的鎖邊工序(xu),505主要針(zhen)對中厚料(liao)。512和514是四線(xian)包(bao)縫(feng)又(you)稱(cheng)安全線(xian)跡。都由兩(liang)(liang)條(tiao)針(zhen)線(xian)兩(liang)(liang)條(tiao)鉤線(xian)組成,只是鉤線(xian)與針(zhen)線(xian)的交圈(quan)方式上兩(liang)(liang)陣(zhen)稍有(you)不同。
600類(lei)(lei)中最常(chang)用的是602,605,607三(san)種。602又稱(cheng)二針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)跡,主(zhu)要用于針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織捏(nie)儀,運動(dong)服(fu)裝(zhuang)等。605又稱(cheng)三(san)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)跡。主(zhu)要用語衣服(fu)上縫(feng)橡津,切滾條和拼接(jie)縫(feng)的縫(feng)合等工(gong)序(xu)。607是四(si)(si)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)網面線(xian)跡,有四(si)(si)條針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)知識比605加了一條陣(zhen)線(xian)其他類(lei)(lei)似。綜上所述,600類(lei)(lei)主(zhu)要用于針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織服(fu)裝(zhuang)的滾邊(bian)(bian),滾領,折(zhe)邊(bian)(bian),拼接(jie)縫(feng)和裝(zhuang)飾花邊(bian)(bian)等工(gong)序(xu),其實也(ye)就是繃縫(feng)啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套(tao)結,倒回針,加固(gu)縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆(fu)蓋線跡,繃(beng)縫線跡
interlock stitch聯鎖(suo)線(xian)跡,多(duo)線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡
single thread chain stitch單線鏈式線跡(ji),單線鏈狀線,單線鎖鏈底針步,(101線跡(ji)),(用于假縫(feng),如袋口)
103線跡-blind stitch暗(an)(an)縫,暗(an)(an)繰針縫,挑腳,
301線(xian)跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)縫線(xian)跡(ji),普通(tong)線(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)車針步,(最常見的(de)線(xian)跡(ji))
304線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲(qu)折(zhe)鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),鋸(ju)齒(chi)形鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),Z形鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji),之字(zi)形平(ping)車(che)針步,人字(zi)形平(ping)車(che)針步,(底面線(xian)都是鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)(ji))
401線跡(ji)-single needle chain stitch單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鏈(lian)式線跡(ji),單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鏈(lian)狀針(zhen)(zhen)步(bu),單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鎖(suo)鏈(lian)底(di)針(zhen)(zhen)步(bu)
404線跡(ji)(ji)-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈式(shi)(shi)(shi)線跡(ji)(ji),鋸齒形鏈式(shi)(shi)(shi)線跡(ji)(ji),Z形鏈式(shi)(shi)(shi)線跡(ji)(ji),人字(zi)鎖鏈底針(zhen)步,(面線是鎖式(shi)(shi)(shi)線跡(ji)(ji),底線是鏈式(shi)(shi)(shi)線跡(ji)(ji))
406線跡(ji)-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙針(zhen)底部覆蓋線跡(ji),雙針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步(bu),(用于腰帶袢,針(zhen)織服裝的袖(xiu)口、下擺等)
407線跡(ji)-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針(zhen)底(di)(di)部(bu)繃(beng)縫線跡(ji),三針(zhen)網(wang)底(di)(di)針(zhen)步
408線跡(ji)-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針(zhen)(zhen)鏈式(shi)表(biao)面(mian)覆蓋線跡(ji),雙針(zhen)(zhen)網面(mian)鎖(suo)鏈底(di)針(zhen)(zhen)步
503線跡(ji)-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)線拷邊,雙(shuang)線包邊,雙(shuang)線钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包(bao)縫線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),拷(kao)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),鎖(suo)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),三(san)線(xian)(xian)拷(kao)邊(bian),三(san)線(xian)(xian)包(bao)邊(bian),三(san)線(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最常見的拷(kao)邊(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji))
512線(xian)跡(ji)-mock safety stitch假線(xian)跡(ji),模擬線(xian)跡(ji),(用于彈性面料接縫)
514線跡-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)(zhen)四(si)線拷(kao)邊(bian),雙針(zhen)(zhen)四(si)線包邊(bian),雙針(zhen)(zhen)四(si)線钑骨,(用于彈性面料接縫)
515線跡(ji)(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四線安全線跡(ji),四線安全針步
516線跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五(wu)(wu)線拷邊,五(wu)(wu)線鎖邊,安全(quan)(quan)線跡,五(wu)(wu)線包邊安全(quan)(quan)線跡,五(wu)(wu)線钑骨
602線跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)四(si)線繃縫線跡(ji)
605線跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三(san)針五線繃縫線跡
606線跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針(zhen)九線平(ping)式繃縫線跡
607線(xian)跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四(si)針六線(xian)平式(shi)繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡,pearl stitch珠式(shi)線(xian)跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平(ping)縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫(feng)線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式(shi)線(xian)跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡(ji)----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀(zhuang)線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡(ji)----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十(shi)字形狀(zhuang)線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡(ji)(ji),十字線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓(yuan)形線跡(ji)----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡(ji)----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線(xian)跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編(bian)線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡(xiu)線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線(xian)跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃(hua)線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復(fu)式線(xian)跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙(shuang)針(zhen)線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙(shuang)重線跡(ji)---TWICE STITCH
三重線(xian)跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式(shi)線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固(gu)線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結(jie)線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮(suo)線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷(juan)邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷(juan)縫線跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡(ji)---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡(ji)---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全線跡(ji)---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針(zhen)法(fa)----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針(zhen)法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針(zhen)法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳(tiao)針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡(ji)----QUILTED STITCH
嵌(qian)縫線(xian)跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線(xian)跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫(feng)線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰(qiao)縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒(dao)縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫(feng)線跡(ji)----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖(suo)式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lian)式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字(zi)線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽(yu)狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線(xian)跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形(xing)狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝(bei)殼形(xing)狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網(wang)眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂(feng)窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直(zhi)形線(xian)跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字(zi)形狀線跡(ji)---DOUBLE STITCH
交(jiao)叉線跡,十字線跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形(xing)線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡(ji)----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡(ji)---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡(xiu)線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線(xian)跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡(ji)---FANCY STITCH
點劃線(xian)跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼(yi)線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡(ji)---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
三重(zhong)線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡(ji)---SEAM STITCH
加固(gu)線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶(zhe)線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸(shen)縮(suo)線跡(ji)---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊(bian)線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊(bian)線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線(xian)跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間(jian)斷線(xian)跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚(liao)針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰(qiao)針(zhen)法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法(fa)---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環(huan)針法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法(fa)----PAD STITCH
扳針法(fa)----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法(fa)----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法(fa)---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊(yang)樹花(hua)針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法(fa)----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)型,縫(feng)式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構(gou)縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫(feng)-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間(jian)斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長(chang)縫(feng)------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫(feng)------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫(feng)------THICK SEAM
中縫(feng)------CENTRE SEAM
側縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚(liao)縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平(ping)接縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接縫(feng)----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼合縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲(xiang)色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫(feng),覆蓋縫(feng)--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去(qu)縫(feng)-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落(luo)縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒(dao)縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫(feng)-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓(ya)緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐(zuo)緝縫(feng)-----TUCKED SEAM
成形(xing)縫-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面(mian)縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊(bian)縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包(bao)縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫(feng)-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫(feng)-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子縫(feng)-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫(feng)-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸(tu)形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形(xing)縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫------HANGING SEAM
保險縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固縫(feng)-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩(jian)縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫(feng)------BACK SEAM
背(bei)嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖(xiu)下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟(jin)止口(kou)縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺(bai)縫(feng)-----SIDE SEAM
衩(cha)縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫(feng)-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫(feng)-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶(zhe)裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對(dui)折(zhe)縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫(feng)-----BOUND SEAM
織(zhi)補縫(feng)-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶(dai)縫-----TAPED SEAM