天(tian)門山拔地而起,橫亙于甘谷(gu)縣(xian)城南,山勢(shi)巍峨(e),連峰疊嶂。《甘谷(gu)縣(xian)志(zhi)》中記載:天(tian)門山“為(wei)縣(xian)之(zhi)主山,海拔1582米。山勢(shi)突(tu)兀,三峰挺(ting)拔,宛(wan)如筆架(jia),俗名筆架(jia)山。曾設(she)天(tian)門隘,為(wei)縣(xian)城屏障。”
天門山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢巍峨連峰聳峙(zhi),古木成林(lin),山(shan)(shan)花(hua)似錦。南嶺渠水,潺潺環繞;盤山(shan)(shan)公路,直通山(shan)(shan)頂。
正如《甘(gan)肅通志》描述甘(gan)谷縣(xian)城的景色:“關嶺東峙(zhi),朱圉西雄,南仰天門,北環(huan)(huan)渭水,萬山(shan)(shan)四塞,復嶺重網。”天門山(shan)(shan)是(shi)觀(guan)賞城區景色的去處。每當旭日東升,登(deng)臨山(shan)(shan)頂,晨霧(wu)中(zhong)環(huan)(huan)視四野,但見(jian)層巒(luan)疊嶂,綿延(yan)起(qi)伏,頗為壯觀(guan);俯瞰渭水平(ping)川,煙霧(wu)繚繞,玉帶(dai)蜿蜒,高樓林立,霞光映彩。夕(xi)陽西照(zhao)時(shi),則四野涂金(jin),山(shan)(shan)巒(luan)輝映。清康熙年間伏羌(今甘(gan)谷)縣(xian)令曹思(si)義賦詩曰(yue):
秦隴名山眼底收,天(tian)門翠聳(song)更無侔(mou)。
云開(kai)平野田疇(chou)繡(xiu),霧散高城樓舍(she)稠。
天(tian)門山東岳大帝信仰(yang)起源于泰山神(shen)(shen)崇拜,泰山神(shen)(shen)信仰(yang)起源悠(you)久,是原始宗教(jiao)中(zhong)山神(shen)(shen)崇拜的延續和演(yan)變,據(ju)《史記·封(feng)(feng)禪書》中(zhong)所(suo)引《管子·封(feng)(feng)禪書》載,早在傳說時期(qi)就有伏羲氏、神(shen)(shen)農氏、炎(yan)帝、黃帝、堯、舜、禹等都(dou)曾(ceng)對泰山有所(suo)崇奉。而隨著后來帝王對泰山的正(zheng)式封(feng)(feng)禪,則使泰山信仰(yang)有了更加神(shen)(shen)圣、崇高的意義。
甘谷縣泰山(shan)(shan)神信(xin)仰(yang)由來(lai)已(yi)久,現有據(ju)可查的證據(ju)表明,天(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝信(xin)仰(yang)應該始于(yu)宋代。宋代時由于(yu)官方(fang)詔令天(tian)下(xia)供奉(feng)東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝,民(min)間開(kai)始普遍(bian)信(xin)仰(yang)供奉(feng),全國各地紛紛建立廟宇供奉(feng),而甘谷天(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)廟也是(shi)此時建立的。
《甘(gan)(gan)(gan)谷縣(xian)(xian)志》載:“(天門山)頂有(you)東(dong)岳(yue)廟(miao)(miao),又稱天齊宮,俗(su)稱泰(tai)(tai)(tai)山廟(miao)(miao)。該廟(miao)(miao)始(shi)建于宋(song)仁宗(zong)天圣年間(1023-1031),采(cai)本山原始(shi)林(lin)木而建。廟(miao)(miao)內塑像威嚴雄起,殿壁十王畫像襟帶須眉(mei)飄飄飛動(dong),鬼判(pan)詼(hui)奇警(jing)人。” 從(cong)(cong)(cong)文中可知,天門山的(de)東(dong)岳(yue)廟(miao)(miao)正是(shi)(shi)宋(song)代時(shi)始(shi)建,而甘(gan)(gan)(gan)谷縣(xian)(xian)東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)信仰則至晚是(shi)(shi)從(cong)(cong)(cong)宋(song)代開(kai)始(shi)在民間普及(ji)。宋(song)真宗(zong)于大中祥(xiang)符三年(1010 年)下達圣旨敕令(ling)全國通(tong)祀東(dong)岳(yue)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)山神,企圖通(tong)過利(li)用泰(tai)(tai)(tai)山神之威神來達到“鎮服四海,夸示(shi)外國”之效。甘(gan)(gan)(gan)谷縣(xian)(xian)在宋(song)代時(shi)期是(shi)(shi)宋(song)夏交(jiao)戈的(de)前(qian)沿陣地(di),在這時(shi)修建泰(tai)(tai)(tai)山廟(miao)(miao)供(gong)奉東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di),無論從(cong)(cong)(cong)政(zheng)府(fu)自上而下的(de)政(zheng)令(ling)號(hao)召,還是(shi)(shi)從(cong)(cong)(cong)民間自下而上的(de)宗(zong)教需求,作為生活在多戰之地(di)的(de)苦難老百姓(xing)來說,東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)信仰的(de)流行是(shi)(shi)順理(li)成章的(de)。
另外從(cong)天(tian)門山東(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)造像及(ji)殿內(nei)壁畫內(nei)容可推測,甘谷縣供(gong)奉(feng)信(xin)(xin)仰(yang)的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)的(de)(de)身(shen)份應(ying)該是黃飛(fei)(fei)虎(hu)一(yi)系(xi)。附近的(de)(de)武(wu)都地區、天(tian)水地區其(qi)他地方(fang)所信(xin)(xin)仰(yang)的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)也多(duo)為黃飛(fei)(fei)虎(hu)之說的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)信(xin)(xin)仰(yang),或稱“黃爺(ye)”,也可以作為推測甘谷縣東(dong)岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)為黃飛(fei)(fei)虎(hu)的(de)(de)佐證(zheng)。
自宋(song)(song)代之后(hou),東(dong)岳大帝信仰(yang)在甘(gan)谷(gu)如何存(cun)在、發展、變化(hua),史(shi)料已不可考,而宋(song)(song)代所(suo)(suo)(suo)建(jian)(jian)天(tian)門山頂(ding)的東(dong)岳廟(miao)(miao)后(hou)來也毀于(yu)戰火,現在所(suo)(suo)(suo)存(cun)為(wei)后(hou)建(jian)(jian)。《甘(gan)谷(gu)史(shi)話》載:“(天(tian)門)山巔東(dong)岳廟(miao)(miao)……后(hou)毀,現存(cun)寺(si)廟(miao)(miao)建(jian)(jian)筑為(wei)20世紀末以后(hou)所(suo)(suo)(suo)建(jian)(jian),由山門、佛堂、東(dong)岳廟(miao)(miao)組成。”
從現在的天(tian)門山(shan)(shan)建筑格局及宗教(jiao)管(guan)理和宗教(jiao)活(huo)動來看,天(tian)門山(shan)(shan)已經主(zhu)要成為(wei)(wei)佛(fo)教(jiao)道場。如山(shan)(shan)下及山(shan)(shan)頂建筑成為(wei)(wei)“天(tian)門寺”,山(shan)(shan)頂由佛(fo)教(jiao)出家僧人主(zhu)持并(bing)管(guan)理。山(shan)(shan)下也(ye)稱天(tian)門寺主(zhu)殿供奉的則是(shi)觀世音菩薩(sa)、文殊菩薩(sa)、普賢菩薩(sa)三位(wei)佛(fo)教(jiao)大菩薩(sa),泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)爺黃飛虎則居于旁邊(bian)配殿。
聞明遐邇的“天(tian)(tian)門春曉”是“甘谷(gu)八景”之第一景觀,早(zao)見于(yu)明朝天(tian)(tian)啟七年(1627)葉應甲(jia)修纂(zuan)的《伏羌縣(xian)(xian)志》,明清(qing)兩代吟詠天(tian)(tian)門春曉的詩(shi)作均載(zai)于(yu)縣(xian)(xian)志。清(qing)時伏羌知縣(xian)(xian)侯(hou)新嚴就有(you)詩(shi)詠《天(tian)(tian)門春曉》:“天(tian)(tian)門清(qing)峻豁吟眸(mou),春笑宜人曉更(geng)幽(you)。麥陌如鱗山(shan)裹繡,苔岑有(you)約我重游。振衣石磴邀(yao)林鳥(niao),搔首云(yun)巔接(jie)斗牛。古剎依稀(xi)馀蔓草(cao),東(dong)風吹著(zhu)碧光(guang)浮。”清(qing)駱(luo)繼賓也(ye)有(you)同題詩(shi):“誰到(dao)天(tian)(tian)門謁見天(tian)(tian),三峰聳峙碧云(yun)連。萬家(jia)煙(yan)火凝目(mu)近(jin),百里山(shan)河舉步前。綠水朱山(shan)花點翠,白梨紅杏(xing)錦生妍。春風一蕩融(rong)合后,拖得(de)物華(hua)顯渭(wei)川。”字里行(xing)間,全是春意。天(tian)(tian)門山(shan)清(qing)幽(you)雅靜,文人雅士常登臨聚會,酬唱詠和,累有(you)佳(jia)作。
山巔的(de)(de)東岳(yue)廟,又稱天(tian)(tian)齊宮,俗稱泰山廟。始(shi)建(jian)于宋仁宗天(tian)(tian)圣(sheng)年間(1023——1031),據(ju)傳是采本山原始(shi)森林所建(jian),是一組布局謹嚴,氣度恢宏的(de)(de)古建(jian)群,后來不幸(xing)毀(hui)壞。現存寺廟建(jian)筑都是二十(shi)世紀末以來陸續建(jian)成的(de)(de),由山門(men)、佛堂、東岳(yue)廟組成。廟內塑像威猛肅(su)整,壁畫人物襟帶須眉,飄飄飛動,小(xiao)鬼判官神情逼人,栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。廟院內兩株紅(hong)白牡丹(dan)植于北宋,系珍貴的(de)(de)文物樹木。
山(shan)南(nan)坡有一(yi)口(kou)清泉,俗稱“蛤蟆口(kou)”,周圍(wei)青草翠(cui)蔓,環境清幽。泉水從石(shi)縫石(shi)縫流出,晶(jing)瑩(ying)澄(cheng)澈(che),清冽甘(gan)美(mei),四季不絕(jue)。翻山(shan)而來的本(ben)地人(ren)絡繹不絕(jue),在此(ci)排隊取水。據說用此(ci)水沏茶(cha),可以清肝(gan)明目,延年益壽。
“七(qi)把(ba)刀”是(shi)天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡的(de)(de)七(qi)道(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)梁(liang),形(xing)如(ru)(ru)七(qi)把(ba)尖(jian)刀。相傳(chuan)很久以前,伏(fu)羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)縣羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)當道(dao),排擠漢人(ren),終于(yu)起(qi)了(le)沖突。漢人(ren)人(ren)數較少,只(zhi)好退守天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。某(mou)日羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)王率領部隊大舉進(jin)攻天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)個(ge)個(ge)手持刀斧,大呼小叫,沖上天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡。守山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)的(de)(de)漢人(ren)用滾(gun)木(mu)、石(shi)塊(kuai)向羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)還擊,但寡不敵(di)眾,眼看(kan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寨將(jiang)被攻破(po)。在值危急(ji)萬分的(de)(de)時刻(ke),只(zhi)見(jian)一道(dao)金光突然閃現(xian),天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡,齊刷刷地(di)崛(jue)起(qi)七(qi)道(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)梁(liang),猶如(ru)(ru)七(qi)把(ba)聳(song)立(li)天(tian)(tian)(tian)際的(de)(de)石(shi)刀,劈入羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)陣中。眼看(kan)就要(yao)得勝的(de)(de)羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)部隊,被從天(tian)(tian)(tian)而(er)(er)降(jiang)(jiang)突如(ru)(ru)其來的(de)(de)天(tian)(tian)(tian)降(jiang)(jiang)神(shen)刀嚇得驚惶(huang)失措,報頭逃命,從此不敢(gan)來犯。“七(qi)把(ba)刀”之名形(xing)象地(di)表現(xian)了(le)天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡的(de)(de)險峻,而(er)(er)這傳(chuan)說也曲折地(di)反映了(le)歷史上的(de)(de)民(min)族(zu)沖突,以及“伏(fu)羌(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)”這一地(di)名的(de)(de)由來。
在天(tian)門山山下,有座“天(tian)門寺”。寺中殿(dian)宇建筑雄偉壯(zhuang)觀,有觀音(yin)殿(dian)、圣母殿(dian)、將(jiang)軍(jun)殿(dian)、竹林社等,每年農歷三月(yue)二十(shi)八舉行廟會(hui),會(hui)期(qi)一周。其時正值暮(mu)春時節,滿(man)山鳥語(yu)花香,美不(bu)勝收。游人們(men)結伴而至,拜佛許愿,游山玩(wan)水。那場面(mian)真是一是繁華,可謂勝景。