靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)位于江南水鄉蘇州西(xi)南的(de)木瀆(du)靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan),因為靈巖(yan)(yan)塔前有一塊(kuai)"靈芝(zhi)石"十(shi)(shi)分(fen)有名,因此(ci)得(de)名"靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)"。 山(shan)上多(duo)奇(qi)石。巨巖(yan)(yan)嵯峨,怪石嶙峋,物象宛(wan)然,得(de)于仿佛(fo)。舊有"十(shi)(shi)二(er)奇(qi)石"或"十(shi)(shi)八奇(qi)石"之(zhi)說。
靈巖山有"靈巖秀絕冠(guan)江南"和"靈巖奇(qi)絕勝天臺"的(de)美(mei)譽(yu)。有昂首攀游狀的(de)石(shi)蛇,敲打有聲的(de)石(shi)鼓,狀若發團的(de)石(shi)髫,伸首隆背的(de)石(shi)龜,兩(liang)耳直豎的(de)石(shi)兔(tu),形(xing)影不離的(de)鴛(yuan)鴦石(shi),埋頭(tou)藏(zang)泥(ni)的(de)牛(niu)背石(shi)等。
靈巖(yan)山(shan),本是春秋時代吳(wu)(wu)王夫差館(guan)娃(wa)宮的舊址,也(ye)是越國獻(xian)西施的地方(fang)。現今尚(shang)存吳(wu)(wu)王遺跡和古跡有:吳(wu)(wu)王井、梳妝臺、玩花(hua)池、玩月池、響廊、琴臺、西施洞、智積(ji)井、長壽亭、方(fang)亭等。
沿登山御(yu)道拾級而(er)上(shang)(shang),首先是(shi)(shi)繼廬(lu)亭,因靈巖(yan)山住持,一(yi)代(dai)(dai)(dai)名(ming)僧印(yin)(yin)光(guang)(guang)(guang)法師的(de)別(bie)號繼廬(lu)而(er)得名(ming)。亭柱上(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)對聯“大路一(yi)條,到此(ci)齊心向(xiang)上(shang)(shang);好山四面,歸(gui)來另眼相看(kan)”。接著是(shi)(shi)迎(ying)笑(xiao)亭,相傳始建于宋代(dai)(dai)(dai),東(dong)坡(po)居士(shi)曾在此(ci)笑(xiao)迎(ying)釋友(you)。盤折(zhe)再上(shang)(shang)是(shi)(shi)“落紅(hong)亭”,靈巖(yan)也(ye)有(you)(you)(you)“象山”之稱,舊有(you)(you)(you)“象王回(hui)顧落花紅(hong)”之句,這里是(shi)(shi)觀(guan)日落之佳處。亭東(dong)乃(nai)印(yin)(yin)光(guang)(guang)(guang)塔院,為印(yin)(yin)光(guang)(guang)(guang)和尚埋骨處。印(yin)(yin)光(guang)(guang)(guang)法師(1861~1940)為近(jin)代(dai)(dai)(dai)佛(fo)教界泰斗(dou)、凈土宗一(yi)代(dai)(dai)(dai)宗師,東(dong)南(nan)亞(ya)印(yin)(yin)光(guang)(guang)(guang)派(pai)創始人。落紅(hong)亭西(xi)(xi)有(you)(you)(you)西(xi)(xi)施(shi)洞(dong),相傳越(yue)王勾踐(jian)與范蠡獻西(xi)(xi)施(shi)給(gei)吳(wu)王夫差于此(ci)等候。后人在洞(dong)前建屋(wu),洞(dong)內(nei)鐫刻(ke)觀(guan)音像,洞(dong)外種(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)紫(zi)竹,所以又名(ming)“觀(guan)音洞(dong)”,香火(huo)頗旺。落紅(hong)亭左(zuo)折(zhe)而(er)上(shang)(shang)約300余步(bu),人稱“百(bai)步(bu)階”,為乾隆帝登靈巖(yan)時所筑御(yu)道的(de)一(yi)段,山勢陡(dou)峻。道旁有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)方形磚砌之臺為梁代(dai)(dai)(dai)靈巖(yan)山開山和尚智積的(de)衣缽塔,塔南(nan)有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)巨石(shi)(shi),形似(si)烏龜,昂(ang)首面向(xiang)太湖(hu),故(gu)有(you)(you)(you)“烏龜望太湖(hu)”之說(shuo)。石(shi)(shi)背(bei)鐫有(you)(you)(you)“望佛(fo)來”三字,石(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)腳印(yin)(yin),據說(shuo)西(xi)(xi)施(shi)常站在此(ci)石(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)眺望故(gu)鄉。
山頂(ding)是靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)寺(si)(si),即吳(wu)王“館娃(wa)宮”的舊址。春秋吳(wu)越(yue)夫(fu)椒一戰,越(yue)國(guo)大敗,越(yue)王勾(gou)踐和(he)大夫(fu)范(fan)蠡被押(ya)為人(ren)質,居住在(zai)石室之中,向夫(fu)差(cha)(cha)獻上(shang)越(yue)中美女(nv)西(xi)施。吳(wu)王夫(fu)差(cha)(cha)為西(xi)施在(zai)靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山上(shang)建造(zao)行宮,銅鉤(gou)玉檻(jian),奢(she)侈無比。吳(wu)人(ren)稱(cheng)美女(nv)為娃(wa),故名“館娃(wa)宮”。公元前473年(nian),越(yue)王勾(gou)踐從(cong)水(shui)路攻進吳(wu)國(guo),把(ba)這富麗堂皇的館娃(wa)宮付之一炬(ju),燒成斷壁(bi)殘(can)垣。東晉時有人(ren)在(zai)靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山吳(wu)宮遺址修(xiu)建別業。后舍宅為寺(si)(si),南朝梁天監二年(nian)(503年(nian))擴建為寺(si)(si)院,名“秀(xiu)峰寺(si)(si)”。唐代改稱(cheng)靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)寺(si)(si)。
靈巖寺(si)現存(cun)寺(si)院規模(mo)宏大(da)(da),為(wei)典型的中(zhong)國(guo)佛(fo)教凈土道場之一。靈巖寺(si)建在(zai)山(shan)頂,高聳入云(yun),巍峨壯觀。寺(si)門前(qian)松柏參(can)天(tian),門額“靈巖山(shan)寺(si)” 為(wei)趙(zhao)樸初題寫。進(jin)門便是(shi)天(tian)王殿,亦(yi)稱彌(mi)勒閣,殿中(zhong)央供(gong)奉天(tian)冠彌(mi)勒,背后供(gong)韋馱菩薩,兩側排列著(zhu)四(si)大(da)(da)天(tian)王。再進(jin)為(wei)前(qian)院,院中(zhong)有池(chi)名(ming)硯池(chi),池(chi)上架有“界清橋”,據說大(da)(da)雨后,橋東之水清,橋西(xi)之水濁。大(da)(da)雄(xiong)寶殿高25米,寬(kuan)20米,氣勢雄(xiong)偉(wei)莊(zhuang)嚴,正(zheng)中(zhong)供(gong)奉釋迦(jia)牟尼佛(fo)巨像,迦(jia)葉、阿難兩弟(di)子侍立兩旁,佛(fo)祖背后為(wei)海(hai)島觀音,東西(xi)兩壁(bi)(bi)排列十六羅漢。大(da)(da)殿后壁(bi)(bi)供(gong)奉文(wen)殊、普(pu)賢。
位于大殿東側的靈(ling)巖塔(ta)(ta)初建(jian)于梁代天監(jian)二年(nian),歷經滄桑,現為七級八面磚塔(ta)(ta),挺拔聳(song)立,是靈(ling)巖山(shan)的標志,凡來(lai)游山(shan)者(zhe)莫不在(zai)此(ci)留(liu)影紀念。靈(ling)巖塔(ta)(ta)又稱多寶塔(ta)(ta),高34米(mi),7級8面,磚木結構(gou)、樓(lou)閣(ge)式。游人可拾級登(deng)塔(ta)(ta),極(ji)目遠眺姑(gu)蘇景(jing)色。塔(ta)(ta)南(nan)有鐘樓(lou),樓(lou)高15.3米(mi),為兩層木構(gou)。上懸大鐘,下(xia)置(zhi)地藏(zang)佛(fo)像(xiang)。
靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山(shan)寺西(xi)(xi)部以花(hua)園為(wei)主,俗稱山(shan)頂花(hua)園。園內浣花(hua)池相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)(xi)施(shi)于此(ci)泛舟采蓮。池西(xi)(xi)有石(shi)城,即山(shan)顛圍墻,相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)為(wei)吳(wu)王闔閭(lv)所(suo)筑,以石(shi)砌成冰紋形(xing)。玩月池曾供西(xi)(xi)施(shi)玩月。吳(wu)王井(jing)呈圓形(xing),也(ye)為(wei)吳(wu)宮(gong)遺井(jing),曾供西(xi)(xi)施(shi)照容。智積井(jing)為(wei)八角形(xing),因是梁代智積和尚修浚,故名。井(jing)中泉水甘例,煮茗甚佳(jia)。井(jing)北砌有假山(shan),上(shang)有“長壽亭”,傳(chuan)(chuan)為(wei)西(xi)(xi)施(shi)梳妝(zhuang)之所(suo)。靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山(shan)的最(zui)高處位于靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)寺之西(xi)(xi)的琴臺,相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)(xi)施(shi)操(cao)琴于此(ci)。
靈(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)南(nan)有采(cai)香(xiang)涇(jing),專為西(xi)施去香(xiang)山(shan)(shan)采(cai)種香(xiang)草之用,傳說是依據吳王一箭(jian)所(suo)射(she)的(de)方向而開(kai)鑿,所(suo)以又叫“一箭(jian)河”。山(shan)(shan)西(xi)南(nan)麓(lu)有韓世(shi)忠墓。南(nan)宋(song)抗金名將韓世(shi)忠和夫人(ren)梁紅玉合葬于(yu)此,墓碑(bei)巨大,碑(bei)文長達13000余(yu)字。靈(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)南(nan)麓(lu)香(xiang)水溪北,百步(bu)小浜(bang)石橋東有清初詩人(ren)張永夫之墓。
靈巖山位于吳中區木瀆鎮西北,北距(ju)天平山2公里。
從蘇州火車(che)站出發(fa),乘坐游4線公交車(che),到(dao)(dao)達底站木瀆嚴家花園(yuan),向前步(bu)行500米,到(dao)(dao)三岔路口往左前步(bu)行300米到(dao)(dao)達靈巖(yan)山大門(men)口。
從吳(wu)中汽(qi)車(che)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan) 約(yue)步行(xing)404米到石湖東路(lu)(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)地鐵站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan), 乘坐(zuo)地鐵2號(hao)線(xian)經過(guo)(guo)8站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在廣濟南路(lu)(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)下車(che) ,站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)內換乘地鐵1號(hao)線(xian), 乘坐(zuo)地鐵1號(hao)線(xian)經過(guo)(guo)9站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在木(mu)瀆站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)下車(che) 約(yue)步行(xing)32米到木(mu)瀆換乘樞紐站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan), 乘坐(zuo)668路(lu)(lu)經過(guo)(guo)5站(zhan)(zhan)(zhan),在方家橋下車(che) ,約(yue)步行(xing)188米到靈巖山 ,便到達終點靈巖山。
從京滬高鐵(tie)蘇州(zhou)北站(zhan)步(bu)(bu)行(xing)約(yue)150米,到(dao)達(da)高鐵(tie)蘇州(zhou)北站(zhan),乘(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)地鐵(tie)2號線,經過12站(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)廣濟(ji)南路站(zhan),步(bu)(bu)行(xing)約(yue)80米,換乘(cheng)(cheng)地鐵(tie)1號線,乘(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)地鐵(tie)1號線,經過9站(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)木瀆站(zhan),步(bu)(bu)行(xing)約(yue)240米,到(dao)達(da)木瀆換乘(cheng)(cheng)樞紐站(zhan),乘(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)583路,經過4站(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)靈(ling)巖山東站(zhan)(也可乘(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)668路、507路、621路),步(bu)(bu)行(xing)約(yue)40米,到(dao)達(da)靈(ling)巖山首末站(zhan)。
北西走向,長2.3公里(li),寬1.2公里(li),海拔182米。靈(ling)巖(yan)山山體由花崗(gang)巖(yan)構成,巖(yan)石球狀(zhuang)風(feng)化(hua)明顯。
山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)多(duo)奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),狀如(ru)靈芝,故名(ming);遠(yuan)望(wang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)勢右旋似巨象回顧,亦稱象山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西麓出(chu)產板巖(yan)是蘇州工藝品(pin)——藏(zang)書靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)硯(俗稱澄(cheng)泥硯)等石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)雕產品(pin)的料石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),又稱硯石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)南峭壁如(ru)城(cheng),故又名(ming)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);因山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)南有(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)射堋、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦稱石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。北宋《吳(wu)郡圖經續記》:“硯石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),在吳(wu)縣(xian)西二十一里。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西有(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦名(ming)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。……山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)相(xiang)連(lian)屬,有(you)村(cun)。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)出(chu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),可(ke)以為硯,蓋硯石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)之名(ming)不虛也。”
靈巖山(shan)(shan)怪石嶙峋,松(song)(song)林滿山(shan)(shan),殿宇雄(xiong)偉,古塔聳立(li),尤多吳宮(gong)遺跡,為蘇州旅游(you)勝地。沿山(shan)(shan)路向上,可見一徑穿亭、蒼翠迎人、落紅夕(xi)照、塔院松(song)(song)風(feng)、醉(zui)僧待渡、越女遺蹤、太湖(hu)在望、箭涇采香、秀峰古剎、靈巖塔影(ying)、蕭寺鐘聲、萬家燈(deng)火(huo)、山(shan)(shan)管擁翠、吳宮(gong)遺址、山(shan)(shan)頂花(hua)園、修廊響屟、琴臺浴暉、蘄岳同輝等靈巖十八景(jing)。山(shan)(shan)頂花(hua)園內有方形玩(wan)花(hua)池,一名浣花(hua)池。玩(wan)月池旁假山(shan)(shan)上有長壽亭,相傳為西(xi)施(shi)梳妝臺遺址。亭西(xi)有石墻(qiang)(qiang),相傳是春秋時期館(guan)娃宮(gong)宮(gong)墻(qiang)(qiang)遺跡。