長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)(yi)墩(dun),又稱討(tao)(tao)賴河墩(dun),是嘉峪關(guan)西長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)最南端(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺(tai),也(ye)是明(ming)代萬里長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)最西端(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺(tai)。長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)(yi)墩(dun)于明(ming)嘉靖十八年(nian)(公元1539)年(nian)由肅州兵備道李涵監筑,北距關(guan)城(cheng)7.5公里,墩(dun)臺(tai)矗立(li)于討(tao)(tao)賴河邊近(jin)56米高的(de)懸崖(ya)之上。
麓,因山(shan)而名。明洪武五年(nian)(1372)修(xiu)筑萬(wan)里長城(cheng)時(shi)置。當時(shi)明征虜大將(jiang)軍馮勝看(kan)中(zhong)嘉峪山(shan)西北麓的險要地勢,選為(wei)河西第一隘口,開始筑城(cheng)設(she)關(guan),以后經歷(li)一百多(duo)年(nian)時(shi)間擴建,才形成一個比(bi)較完整的防(fang)御體系。明弘治年(nian)間,為(wei)防(fang)吐(tu)魯番東侵,曾進行重修(xiu)。這關(guan)雄偉壯觀,號稱“天下第一雄關(guan)”。
萬里長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿線(xian)分布著許(xu)多關(guan)隘,其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)規模(mo)較(jiao)大(da)的(de)(de)有兩(liang)座(zuo):一(yi)座(zuo)是(shi)(shi)東端的(de)(de)山海關(guan),另一(yi)座(zuo)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)西(xi)(xi)端的(de)(de)嘉峪(yu)(yu)關(guan),而后(hou)者經前者猶(you)有過(guo)之,所以嘉峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)是(shi)(shi)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的(de)(de)較(jiao)大(da)關(guan)隘,也是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國規模(mo)大(da)的(de)(de)關(guan)隘。但嘉峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)初建(jian)(jian)時不過(guo)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)座(zuo)6米(mi)(mi)(mi)高(gao)(gao)(gao)的(de)(de)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占(zhan)地(di)2500平方米(mi)(mi)(mi)。而現存(cun)(cun)的(de)(de)關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總(zong)面積33.500余平方米(mi)(mi)(mi),比(bi)原(yuan)來(lai)的(de)(de)大(da)數倍。它由外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和(he)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組合而成(cheng)(cheng),關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周(zhou)長733米(mi)(mi)(mi),就(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周(zhou)長640米(mi)(mi)(mi),面積為原(yuan)先(xian)的(de)(de)大(da)小。內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)(xi)寬東窄,略呈梯形(xing)(xing),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)(gao)(gao)9米(mi)(mi)(mi),東西(xi)(xi)開“光(guang)化(hua)門(men)(men)(men)”和(he)“柔遠(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)”兩(liang)門(men)(men)(men)。門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)各筑(zhu)(zhu)有甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)對稱,三(san)(san)層三(san)(san)檐(yan)五間式,周(zhou)圍有廊,單檐(yan)歇山頂,高(gao)(gao)(gao)17米(mi)(mi)(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四隅有角樓(lou)(lou)(lou)、南、北(bei)墻(qiang)中(zhong)(zhong)段有敵樓(lou)(lou)(lou),一(yi)層三(san)(san)間式帶前廊。兩(liang)門(men)(men)(men)內(nei)北(bei)側有馬(ma)道達城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂。關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正(zheng)中(zhong)(zhong)有一(yi)官井,舊有亭,今已廢。西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)套筑(zhu)(zhu)一(yi)道凸(tu)形(xing)(xing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),構成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)個羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比(bi)內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)(gao)(gao)2.7米(mi)(mi)(mi)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正(zheng)中(zhong)(zhong)大(da)門(men)(men)(men)額刻(ke)“嘉峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)”三(san)(san)個大(da)字(zi)。門(men)(men)(men)頂原(yuan)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)(lou),與東西(xi)(xi)二(er)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)形(xing)(xing)制相同(tong),三(san)(san)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)東西(xi)(xi)成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)線(xian)。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)被毀。西(xi)(xi)面羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚砌(qi),東、南、北(bei)有土筑(zhu)(zhu)圍墻(qiang),連接(jie)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭門(men)(men)(men)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成(cheng)(cheng)并守(shou)之勢。東甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有文(wen)昌(chang)閣、關(guan)帝(di)廟、戲樓(lou)(lou)(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)靠北(bei)有游(you)擊(ji)衙門(men)(men)(men)府一(yi)座(zuo),都是(shi)(shi)清代建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)。新中(zhong)(zhong)國成(cheng)(cheng)立后(hou),關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾多次維(wei)修加固,至今保存(cun)(cun)完(wan)好。
長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一墩(dun)嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)位于甘肅省河(he)西(xi)走廊(lang)的(de)西(xi)端(duan),東經(jing)98°17′、北緯39°47′,甘肅嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)市向西(xi)5公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)(li)處,是(shi)明長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)端(duan)的(de)第一重關(guan)(guan),也是(shi)古代“絲綢(chou)之路”的(de)交(jiao)通要沖。嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)市區(qu)西(xi)南6公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)(li)處,位于嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)最狹窄的(de)山谷(gu)(gu)中部(bu)(bu),地(di)勢(shi)最高的(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)山上,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)兩翼的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻橫(heng)穿(chuan)沙(sha)漠戈壁(bi),向北8公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)(li)連(lian)黑山懸(xuan)壁(bi)長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),向南7公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)(li),是(shi)明代萬里(li)(li)(li)長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)端(duan)主宰,自古為河(he)西(xi)第一隘口。嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),位于嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)最狹窄的(de)山谷(gu)(gu)中部(bu)(bu),地(di)勢(shi)最高的(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)山上,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)兩翼的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻橫(heng)穿(chuan)沙(sha)漠戈壁(bi)。嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)以地(di)勢(shi)險要,巍峨壯觀著稱于世。與萬里(li)(li)(li)之外(wai)的(de)“天下第一關(guan)(guan)”——山海關(guan)(guan)遙相呼應,聞名天下。
明代,嘉峪關(guan)管轄著“腹里、沿邊(bian)、境外(wai)墩臺(tai)三(san)十(shi)九座(zuo)”。關(guan)內墩臺(tai)林立,縱橫交織,相(xiang)互(hu)了(le)望,互(hu)通情報。長城第一墩,是(shi)關(guan)南(nan)主要的一座(zuo)墩臺(tai),擔負著傳遞(di)關(guan)南(nan)及祁連山諸(zhu)口軍事信息(xi)的任務。設有塢(wu)、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝、食(shi)宿、積薪等(deng)物,配備有一定(ding)數量的守兵。
長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)景區(qu)自然(ran)景致(zhi)壯觀(guan),東臨酒(jiu)泉,西(xi)連(lian)(lian)荒漠,北依嘉(jia)峪(yu),南(nan)望(wang)(wang)祁(qi)連(lian)(lian),討(tao)賴河水滔滔東去。極目南(nan)眺,山(shan)峰終年(nian)潔白,襯映著藍色天空,更覺清新如畫。正所謂“余收遠岫和(he)云(yun)濕,風度疏(shu)林(lin)帶舞飄(piao)(piao)”。景區(qu)面積約3.22平(ping)方(fang)公里。景區(qu)包括長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)、綜合服務(wu)區(qu)、討(tao)賴河滑(hua)索、討(tao)賴客棧、天險吊(diao)橋、“醉臥沙場(chang)”雕塑群、“中華(hua)(hua)龍(long)林(lin)”等(deng)內容(rong)。長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)于(yu)明(ming)嘉(jia)靖十八(ba)年(nian)(公元1539)年(nian)由肅州兵備道李涵監筑(zhu),北距關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)7.5公里,墩(dun)(dun)臺矗立于(yu)討(tao)賴河邊近56米(mi)高(gao)的(de)(de)懸(xuan)崖之上。對于(yu)它(ta)的(de)(de)雄(xiong)險,著名長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)專(zhuan)家羅哲文(wen)先生(sheng)曾(ceng)經有過(guo)生(sheng)動的(de)(de)吟詠:“嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan),雄(xiong)險畫皆難,墩(dun)(dun)堡(bao)遙遙相互望(wang)(wang),長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)道道連(lian)(lian)關(guan)山(shan),猿臂也(ye)難攀(pan)”。在一(yi)萬多華(hua)(hua)里的(de)(de)明(ming)代長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)線上,墩(dun)(dun)臺無數,密如繁星(xing),而嘉(jia)峪(yu)關(guan)長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)與河北山(shan)海關(guan)渤海之濱的(de)(de)“老(lao)龍(long)頭”遙相呼應,共(gong)同(tong)構筑(zhu)起(qi)中華(hua)(hua)長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)“龍(long)”的(de)(de)首尾,成(cheng)(cheng)就了中華(hua)(hua)民(min)族“龍(long)”的(de)(de)美名。如果說長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)中華(hua)(hua)民(min)族的(de)(de)豐碑,那么長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)就是(shi)這(zhe)座豐碑崛起(qi)的(de)(de)地方(fang)。現在,這(zhe)座墩(dun)(dun)臺殘(can)高(gao)約10米(mi),其底部呈不規則正方(fang)形,底寬14米(mi),內部仍(reng)呈正方(fang)形,長(chang)(chang)寬均為6米(mi)。用(yong)黃土夯(hang)筑(zhu)而成(cheng)(cheng),夯(hang)土層(ceng)厚(hou)10~20厘米(mi)。“長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)”碑文(wen)由已故(gu)的(de)(de)西(xi)路軍將領(ling)魏傳統(tong)題寫(xie),字跡(ji)飄(piao)(piao)逸灑脫,清秀雋永。
依托長(chang)(chang)城第一(yi)墩開發(fa)建設的(de)(de)旅游(you)景(jing)區(qu)(qu),自(zi)然景(jing)致壯觀,東邊(bian)是(shi)群樓林(lin)立的(de)(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)市區(qu)(qu),西(xi)邊(bian)是(shi)浩瀚無際的(de)(de)大漠戈壁,北(bei)邊(bian)與雄偉壯觀的(de)(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)相連,南面為連綿起伏的(de)(de)祁連雪山(shan),腳下是(shi)發(fa)源(yuan)于祁連山(shan)的(de)(de)討賴(lai)河。長(chang)(chang)城第一(yi)墩旅游(you)景(jing)區(qu)(qu),以長(chang)(chang)城文化(hua)和絲綢之路文化(hua)為內涵,以戈壁風光和西(xi)北(bei)民(min)俗風情(qing)為基礎(chu),是(shi)一(yi)處觀光、探險(xian)、休閑、娛樂、懷古游(you)歷和拍(pai)攝影視場景(jing)的(de)(de)好地(di)方。