廣元(yuan)鶴鳴山(shan)位(wei)于四川省廣元(yuan)市劍閣縣普安鎮(劍閣老縣城)東一(yi)公里處。相(xiang)傳道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)始(shi)祖(zu)張(zhang)道(dao)(dao)(dao)陵(ling)學道(dao)(dao)(dao)于此(ci)。相(xiang)傳古代常(chang)有(you)飛鶴棲鳴于此(ci),道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)創始(shi)人(ren)張(zhang)陵(ling)在(zai)此(ci)跨鶴仙(xian)去(qu)而得名(ming)。近年(nian)來有(you)學者認為這里是(shi)張(zhang)陵(ling)開創五斗米教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)的發(fa)祥地(di),是(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)勝地(di)中(zhong)的魁首,被稱為“道(dao)(dao)(dao)國仙(xian)都”,是(shi)中(zhong)國四大(da)道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)名(ming)山(shan)之(zhi)一(yi),歷代來此(ci)觀光的詩人(ren)墨客都喜在(zai)此(ci)題詩嵌碑、刻石造像、言志抒情。
廣(guang)元鶴(he)鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢(shi)陡峻,風景(jing)秀麗,從山(shan)(shan)麓起有(you)石級(ji)數千,拾級(ji)而上直達山(shan)(shan)巔。清代(dai)建筑的文峰塔矗立其頂,山(shan)(shan)脊蒼松(song)掩映(ying),山(shan)(shan)間(jian)翠柏蔥蘢。以初唐(tang)重建的“重陽亭”為中心(xin),把眾多的文物(wu)古(gu)跡(ji)連成一線,歷來為“登高覽勝”之(zhi)地。現山(shan)(shan)上開辟(pi)了鶴(he)鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)公(gong)園,復建了古(gu)代(dai)建筑風格和現代(dai)藝術相結合的亭、臺、樓、閣。
鶴鳴山山頂北端的(de)文峰白塔(ta)(ta),高21.7 米(mi),六層八(ba)(ba)面(mian)。第一(yi)(yi)層外(wai)圍塔(ta)(ta)柱上雕有(you)蟠龍圖(tu)案,塔(ta)(ta)心中央(yang)有(you)一(yi)(yi)塊青石,石上雕有(you)太極八(ba)(ba)卦(gua)圖(tu)案,是川北與道教有(you)關(guan)的(de)磚石混建(jian)塔(ta)(ta)。山上有(you)道教造像數十(shi)尊,一(yi)(yi)尊露天(tian)(tian),余皆刻(ke)于(yu)龕內(nei)。露天(tian)(tian)一(yi)(yi)尊為(wei)圓雕立(li)體像,頭上有(you)髻,面(mian)頤豐滿,形象古樸。造像以(yi)高2米(mi)的(de)長生(sheng)保(bao)命天(tian)(tian)尊像為(wei)代表作,足穿道靴,身著(zhu)寬領大(da)袖道袍,神態肅穆,為(wei)唐大(da)中十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年(857年)造。另(ling)有(you)浮雕甲胄武士像多組,每組五、六身,兩眼圓睜,姿態雄偉。
山頂(ding)處有(you)唐、宋(song)、元(yuan)、明、清歷(li)代(dai)(dai)石刻數(shu)10處,有(you)道(dao)教造像(xiang)石刻、《劍州重陽亭銘并序》碑和《大唐中(zhong)興頌》石刻,被公認為鶴鳴(ming)山石刻“三絕” 。唐代(dai)(dai)三絕,就是(shi)唐人(ren)留(liu)下(xia)的古代(dai)(dai)文化佳品。
一絕:李商(shang)(shang)隱撰《劍州重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)銘(ming)》碑(bei)(bei)(bei)。重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting),始建于唐(tang)大中(zhong)(zhong)八(ba)年(公元854年)九月,由劍州刺史蔣(jiang)郁(yu)監造。因(yin)為(wei)蔣(jiang)郁(yu)意在借重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)李商(shang)(shang)隱的(de)名望,使(shi)自己的(de)政績播美于當時(shi),留名于后世,所(suo)以(yi),邀(yao)請在梓州為(wei)官的(de)李商(shang)(shang)隱為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)作銘(ming)文(wen)(wen)(wen)。千余年來,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)為(wei)亭(ting)護,亭(ting)以(yi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)聞。亭(ting)雖曾有(you)壞毀,而(er)唐(tang)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻保存至今。據重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)記:九月建于東山(shan)之上,坐南(nan)朝北(bei),為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)九登高觀(guan)景之所(suo),故以(yi)“重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)”為(wei)名。北(bei)宋(song)治平年亭(ting)圮碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾,歷經宋(song)、明(ming)清、民(min)國初(chu),或(huo)修或(huo)塌,時(shi)有(you)興替。現(xian)存重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)系仿唐(tang)建筑風(feng)格,占地(di)面積18.5平方米(mi),高4.4米(mi),灰色卷脊(ji)屋頂。宋(song)刻“古(gu)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)”四字,刻在亭(ting)后正(zheng)中(zhong)(zhong)壁上,字跡(ji)精(jing)刻鐫深,蒼(cang)勁有(you)力。李商(shang)(shang)隱所(suo)撰的(de)《劍州重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)銘(ming)》唐(tang)碑(bei)(bei)(bei),現(xian)存于重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)側的(de)造像龕內,高1.88米(mi),寬0.85米(mi),小篆書陰(yin)刻文(wen)(wen)(wen),是研究(jiu)唐(tang)代文(wen)(wen)(wen)化的(de)珍(zhen)貴文(wen)(wen)(wen)物。
二絕(jue):《大(da)唐(tang)中(zhong)興頌》摩(mo)崖石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)。《大(da)唐(tang)中(zhong)興頌》及(ji)序文,是(shi)中(zhong)唐(tang)詩人(ren)元結(jie)于(yu)(yu)上(shang)元二年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元761年(nian)(nian)(nian))秋八月撰寫的(de)。名為頌揚肅宗李亨(heng)平定(ding)“安史之(zhi)亂”開創唐(tang)代中(zhong)興局(ju)面的(de)偉業,實則是(shi)文辭委婉,隱含諷刺,從一個側面揭(jie)露了唐(tang)王朝上(shang)層統治集(ji)團的(de)貪婪腐朽和爭(zheng)權奪利的(de)斗爭(zheng),在(zai)一定(ding)程序上(shang)表現了作(zuo)者痛恨藩鎮(zhen)割據,渴(ke)望國家(jia)統一的(de)政治態度。碑文是(shi)我(wo)國書(shu)法史上(shang)名家(jia)顏(yan)(yan)真卿書(shu)寫的(de)。宋人(ren)文潛贊顏(yan)(yan)真卿書(shu)法云:“水部胸(xiong)中(zhong)星斗文,大(da)師筆下龍(long)蛇字。”千(qian)百年(nian)(nian)(nian)來,被(bei)歷代文人(ren)書(shu)法家(jia)敬仰。摩(mo)崖石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)通高的(de)313厘(li)米,寬384厘(li)米,自(zi)左至右豎行陰刻(ke)(ke)20行,共(gong)229字,通體端莊,氣(qi)勢磅(bang)礴。碑文是(shi)大(da)歷七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元772年(nian)(nian)(nian))刻(ke)(ke)在(zai)湖南(nan)祁陽浯溪(xi)石(shi)崖上(shang),又在(zai)南(nan)宋紹熙(xi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(1195年(nian)(nian)(nian))由隆慶府(今劍閣縣)通判吳旰(gan)翻(fan)刻(ke)(ke)于(yu)(yu)此(ci)。至今碑刻(ke)(ke)完整,顏(yan)(yan)字風格猶存。
三絕:摩崖(ya)道教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。重陽亭右(you)側石(shi)崖(ya)上(shang)的(de)(de)唐代道教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),是(shi)我國較大較好的(de)(de)道教(jiao)摩崖(ya)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),世(shi)界美術(shu)史(shi)、中(zhong)(zhong)國美術(shu)史(shi)均將它們列入(ru)(ru)章(zhang)目介紹。現(xian)存的(de)(de)5龕(kan)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),完整者2龕(kan),均為(wei)長生保(bao)命(ming)天(tian)尊造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。“天(tian)尊”是(shi)道教(jiao)尊貴的(de)(de)天(tian)神之(zhi)稱。其中(zhong)(zhong)一尊造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)高1.8米,戴蓮(lian)花冠,著納托(tuo),持法(fa)器站蓮(lian)臺(tai)上(shang)肌膚(fu)豐腴,莊重面善,有濃厚的(de)(de)地(di)方特色。雕刻(ke)家以概括而又簡(jian)練(lian)的(de)(de)線條刻(ke)就身(shen)形(xing)衣飾,形(xing)象(xiang)逼真,以工整精巧的(de)(de)刀(dao)法(fa)刻(ke)就頭、手(shou)、眉、眼,體現(xian)了“壽比(bi)南山”、“長生不老”的(de)(de)意境與教(jiao)義。龕(kan)兩(liang)邊各有淺浮雕兩(liang)組,為(wei)文臣、武(wu)士、護(hu)法(fa)神、妖(yao)魔、供養(yang)人等。不論是(shi)手(shou)持象(xiang)笏者、披甲戴盔者、腰束(shu)戰裙(qun)者、足踏妖(yao)魔者,都各執劍、叉(cha)、索鏈、寶瓶(ping)、法(fa)器,怒目睹(du)眼,形(xing)態各異,咄(duo)咄(duo)逼人。其中(zhong)(zhong)二尊是(shi)位于登(deng)豐閣內(nei)右(you)龕(kan)的(de)(de)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。像(xiang)(xiang)高192厘(li)米,完整無損,頸(jing)脖細長,接近“立(li)七(qi)、坐五、盤三、臥八”的(de)(de)傳統人體造(zao)型(xing)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)的(de)(de)頭身(shen)比(bi)例。據(ju)石(shi)刻(ke)題記考察,它是(shi)唐武(wu)宗李(li)炎會昌五年(公(gong)元845年)的(de)(de)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)品。龕(kan)臺(tai)下還(huan)刻(ke)有雄獅、麒麟(lin)等祥瑞物(wu)。唐代道教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)石(shi)窟(ku)能(neng)保(bao)留(liu)至(zhi)今,為(wei)難(nan)得(de)的(de)(de)文物(wu)珍品,1986年,這(zhe)里的(de)(de)道教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)被選入(ru)(ru)《中(zhong)(zhong)國美術(shu)全集?四川石(shi)窟(ku)雕塑(su)》卷,日本學者亦(yi)將這(zhe)些(xie)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)編入(ru)(ru)《世(shi)界美術(shu)全集》里,可(ke)見這(zhe)些(xie)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)的(de)(de)文物(wu)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)價值之(zhi)高。
此外,鶴鳴山(shan)還(huan)有“一(yi)郡奇觀”題刻《摩(mo)崖(ya)碑亭(ting)記》、明正(zheng)德(de)十四的(de)刻的(de)《劍州再建重(zhong)陽亭(ting)記》、正(zheng)德(de)卯(mao)寅摩(mo)刻的(de)《重(zhong)陽亭(ting)詩有跋》、清同(tong)治十年鐫(juan)刻的(de)《重(zhong)修(xiu)摩(mo)崖(ya)亭(ting)碑記》、光緒二(er)十六年鐫(juan)刻的(de)《重(zhong)修(xiu)重(zhong)陽亭(ting)碑》等石刻。這些石刻藝(yi)術珍品(pin)是古代(dai)勞動人民智慧(hui)的(de)結晶。1962年在鶴鳴山(shan)墾荒造林出土(tu)的(de)宋代(dai)道教(jiao)祭祀用品(pin)有銅壺、銅瓶、銅醮斗(dou)等;還(huan)有宋代(dai)龍(long)泉窟產(chan)的(de)精品(pin)“蓮瓣紋豆青瓷碗(wan)”,經專家鑒(jian)定為國家一(yi)級文物。
張陵創立五斗米道
張陵(34—156),中國東漢五斗米道創立者。后改名張道陵,字輔漢,敬為張天師。沛國豐邑(今江蘇豐縣)人(ren)。少時(shi)喜讀(du)河(he)洛圖諱、天(tian)文地理之書(shu)。曾入太(tai)學,通(tong)達五(wu)經,又好黃老(lao)(lao)之學,舉薦(jian)“賢(xian)良(liang)方正直言極諫科(ke)”。漢明帝時(shi)曾任巴郡江州(今(jin)四(si)川重(zhong)慶(qing))令(ling),后(hou)隱居北邙山(shan)(今(jin)河(he)南(nan)洛陽北),修煉(lian)長(chang)生之道(dao)(dao)(dao)。朝廷久征不(bu)就。東漢順(shun)帝時(shi),修道(dao)(dao)(dao)于鵠鳴山(shan)(今(jin)四(si)川大邑縣境內),創立(li)(li)五(wu)斗米道(dao)(dao)(dao)。教(jiao)門中尊老(lao)(lao)子(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)主,以《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)五(wu)千言》為(wei)(wei)(wei)經典(dian),自稱太(tai)上(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,授為(wei)(wei)(wei)“三天(tian)法(fa)師(shi)正一(yi)(yi)真人(ren)”。制(zhi)作道(dao)(dao)(dao)書(shu)24篇,建立(li)(li)24治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)區,各治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)立(li)(li)道(dao)(dao)(dao)官(guan)祭酒,以統治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)(min)。道(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)(min)有犯小過者以悔過自新(xin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)奉道(dao)(dao)(dao)之主旨,并用符水咒法(fa)為(wei)(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)(min)治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)病。傳有弟子(zi)王長(chang)、趙升等。子(zi)孫世襲(xi)天(tian)師(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)號,歷(li)代帝君皆加有封號。東漢順(shun)帝(126—144年(nian))時(shi),張(zhang)陵(ling)聞(wen)蜀(shu)地多名(ming)山(shan),民(min)(min)風淳(chun)厚,易(yi)于教(jiao)化,于是(shi)(shi)攜弟子(zi)入蜀(shu),居住在鶴(he)(he)鳴山(shan)(又名(ming)鵠山(shan))修道(dao)(dao)(dao)。精思煉(lian)志(zhi)數年(nian),著作道(dao)(dao)(dao)書(shu)二(er)十(shi)(shi)四(si)篇。感太(tai)上(shang)親(qin)降,授以《三天(tian)正法(fa)》、《正一(yi)(yi)科(ke)術要道(dao)(dao)(dao)法(fa)》、《正一(yi)(yi)盟威(wei)(wei)妙經》、《三業六通(tong)之訣》,命為(wei)(wei)(wei)天(tian)師(shi)。于是(shi)(shi),張(zhang)陵(ling)以鶴(he)(he)鳴山(shan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)中心設(she)二(er)十(shi)(shi)四(si)治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),是(shi)(shi)正一(yi)(yi)盟威(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)的基層組織與(yu)活動(dong)中心。初設(she)二(er)十(shi)(shi)四(si)治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),主要集中在蜀(shu)漢地區,后(hou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)與(yu)二(er)十(shi)(shi)八宿相配(pei),乃增至二(er)十(shi)(shi)八治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),其(qi)中陽平治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)是(shi)(shi)正一(yi)(yi)盟威(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)的總部。傳太(tai)上(shang)正一(yi)(yi)盟威(wei)(wei)之道(dao)(dao)(dao),奉老(lao)(lao)子(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)祖,尊稱太(tai)上(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,以《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)五(wu)千文》為(wei)(wei)(wei)主要經典(dian),創立(li)(li)了道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)。
張陵(ling)初創的正一(yi)盟(meng)威道,其(qi)主(zhu)(zhu)要經(jing)(jing)典有(you)《老子五(wu)千(qian)文(wen)》、《太平洞極經(jing)(jing)》等(deng)。其(qi)主(zhu)(zhu)要宗教活動是(shi):誦(song)習五(wu)千(qian)文(wen);有(you)罪首過;符水(shui)治(zhi)病;用(yong)章表與鬼神為誓約。其(qi)組織制度主(zhu)(zhu)要是(shi):各治(zhi)置祭酒,以領道民(min)。并規(gui)定按(an)時“付(fu)天(tian)倉”及“三會(hui)(hui)”。付(fu)天(tian)倉,即(ji)奉道者于十(shi)月一(yi)日(ri)向(xiang)天(tian)師、祭酒交納信(xin)米五(wu)斗;三會(hui)(hui),即(ji)奉道者一(yi)年三次(正月七(qi)日(ri)、七(qi)月七(qi)日(ri)、十(shi)月五(wu)日(ri))朝會(hui)(hui)天(tian)師治(zhi)。