廣(guang)元(yuan)鶴鳴山位于(yu)四川省廣(guang)元(yuan)市劍閣縣普安鎮(劍閣老縣城(cheng))東一公里處。相(xiang)傳道教(jiao)始祖(zu)張道陵學(xue)道于(yu)此。相(xiang)傳古代常有飛鶴棲鳴于(yu)此,道教(jiao)創(chuang)(chuang)始人張陵在此跨鶴仙去(qu)而(er)得名。近(jin)年(nian)來(lai)(lai)有學(xue)者認(ren)為這里是(shi)(shi)張陵開創(chuang)(chuang)五(wu)斗米教(jiao)的(de)發祥(xiang)地(di),是(shi)(shi)道教(jiao)勝地(di)中的(de)魁首,被稱為“道國仙都”,是(shi)(shi)中國四大道教(jiao)名山之一,歷(li)代來(lai)(lai)此觀光的(de)詩人墨客都喜在此題詩嵌碑(bei)、刻石造像、言志抒情。
廣元鶴(he)鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢(shi)陡峻,風(feng)景(jing)秀麗,從山(shan)(shan)麓起有(you)石級數千,拾級而上(shang)直達(da)山(shan)(shan)巔。清代(dai)建(jian)(jian)筑的(de)文峰塔矗立其頂,山(shan)(shan)脊蒼松掩映,山(shan)(shan)間翠(cui)柏蔥(cong)蘢。以初唐重(zhong)建(jian)(jian)的(de)“重(zhong)陽亭”為中心(xin),把眾多的(de)文物古跡連(lian)成一線(xian),歷來為“登(deng)高覽勝”之地。現山(shan)(shan)上(shang)開辟了鶴(he)鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)公園,復建(jian)(jian)了古代(dai)建(jian)(jian)筑風(feng)格和現代(dai)藝術相結合的(de)亭、臺、樓、閣(ge)。
鶴鳴山山頂北端的文(wen)峰白塔(ta),高21.7 米(mi),六層八面。第(di)一層外圍塔(ta)柱上(shang)雕(diao)有蟠龍圖案,塔(ta)心中央有一塊青石(shi),石(shi)上(shang)雕(diao)有太極八卦圖案,是(shi)川北與道(dao)教有關(guan)的磚石(shi)混建塔(ta)。山上(shang)有道(dao)教造像(xiang)數十尊(zun)(zun),一尊(zun)(zun)露(lu)天,余(yu)皆刻于龕(kan)內(nei)。露(lu)天一尊(zun)(zun)為圓(yuan)雕(diao)立體像(xiang),頭(tou)上(shang)有髻(ji),面頤豐滿,形(xing)象(xiang)古樸。造像(xiang)以高2米(mi)的長生保命天尊(zun)(zun)像(xiang)為代表作(zuo),足穿道(dao)靴,身著(zhu)寬領大(da)袖道(dao)袍,神態肅穆,為唐大(da)中十一年(857年)造。另有浮(fu)雕(diao)甲胄武(wu)士像(xiang)多組,每組五、六身,兩眼圓(yuan)睜,姿態雄(xiong)偉。
山頂處(chu)有(you)唐、宋、元、明、清歷代石刻數10處(chu),有(you)道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)石刻、《劍(jian)州重陽亭銘并序》碑(bei)和《大唐中興頌》石刻,被公認為鶴鳴山石刻“三絕(jue)” 。唐代三絕(jue),就是唐人留(liu)下的古(gu)代文化佳品。
一(yi)絕:李(li)(li)商(shang)隱(yin)撰《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》碑(bei)(bei)(bei)。重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting),始建于(yu)唐(tang)(tang)大中(zhong)八(ba)年(公元854年)九月,由劍州(zhou)刺史(shi)蔣郁監造。因(yin)為(wei)蔣郁意在(zai)借(jie)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)李(li)(li)商(shang)隱(yin)的(de)名(ming)望,使自己的(de)政績播美于(yu)當時,留名(ming)于(yu)后世,所(suo)以(yi),邀請(qing)在(zai)梓(zi)州(zhou)為(wei)官的(de)李(li)(li)商(shang)隱(yin)為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)作銘文。千余(yu)年來(lai),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)為(wei)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)護,亭(ting)(ting)(ting)以(yi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)聞(wen)。亭(ting)(ting)(ting)雖(sui)曾有(you)壞毀,而唐(tang)(tang)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻保存至(zhi)今(jin)。據重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)記:九月建于(yu)東山之上,坐(zuo)南朝北(bei),為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)九登高觀景之所(suo),故以(yi)“重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)”為(wei)名(ming)。北(bei)宋(song)(song)治平(ping)年亭(ting)(ting)(ting)圮碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾,歷經宋(song)(song)、明(ming)清(qing)、民國初,或修或塌,時有(you)興替。現存重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)系仿唐(tang)(tang)建筑風格,占地面積18.5平(ping)方米,高4.4米,灰色卷脊(ji)屋頂。宋(song)(song)刻(ke)“古重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)”四字(zi),刻(ke)在(zai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)后正中(zhong)壁上,字(zi)跡精刻(ke)鐫深,蒼勁有(you)力(li)。李(li)(li)商(shang)隱(yin)所(suo)撰的(de)《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》唐(tang)(tang)碑(bei)(bei)(bei),現存于(yu)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)側的(de)造像龕內(nei),高1.88米,寬0.85米,小篆書陰刻(ke)文,是(shi)研(yan)究唐(tang)(tang)代文化的(de)珍(zhen)貴文物。
二絕:《大唐(tang)(tang)(tang)中(zhong)興(xing)頌》摩崖(ya)石刻(ke)。《大唐(tang)(tang)(tang)中(zhong)興(xing)頌》及序文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen),是中(zhong)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)詩(shi)人(ren)元(yuan)(yuan)結于上元(yuan)(yuan)二年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)761年(nian))秋八月撰(zhuan)寫的(de)。名(ming)為頌揚肅宗李亨平定(ding)(ding)“安史之亂”開創唐(tang)(tang)(tang)代中(zhong)興(xing)局面(mian)的(de)偉業,實則是文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)辭委婉,隱含諷刺,從一個側面(mian)揭露了唐(tang)(tang)(tang)王(wang)朝上層統(tong)治集團的(de)貪婪腐朽和爭權奪利的(de)斗(dou)爭,在(zai)一定(ding)(ding)程序上表現了作(zuo)者(zhe)痛恨藩鎮割據,渴望國(guo)家統(tong)一的(de)政治態度。碑文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)是我國(guo)書法(fa)史上名(ming)家顏真(zhen)卿書寫的(de)。宋(song)人(ren)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)潛贊顏真(zhen)卿書法(fa)云:“水部胸中(zhong)星斗(dou)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen),大師筆下(xia)龍蛇字。”千百(bai)年(nian)來,被歷代文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)人(ren)書法(fa)家敬仰。摩崖(ya)石刻(ke)通(tong)高的(de)313厘米(mi),寬384厘米(mi),自左(zuo)至右豎(shu)行陰刻(ke)20行,共(gong)229字,通(tong)體端莊,氣勢磅礴(bo)。碑文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)是大歷七(qi)年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)772年(nian))刻(ke)在(zai)湖南祁陽浯溪(xi)石崖(ya)上,又在(zai)南宋(song)紹熙年(nian)間(jian)(1195年(nian))由隆慶府(今(jin)劍閣縣)通(tong)判吳旰(gan)翻刻(ke)于此。至今(jin)碑刻(ke)完(wan)整,顏字風格猶存(cun)。
三絕(jue):摩崖道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。重陽亭(ting)右側石(shi)(shi)崖上(shang)的(de)(de)唐(tang)代道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),是(shi)我國(guo)較大較好的(de)(de)道(dao)教(jiao)摩崖造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),世(shi)界美(mei)(mei)(mei)術(shu)史、中(zhong)國(guo)美(mei)(mei)(mei)術(shu)史均(jun)將(jiang)它們列入(ru)章目介紹。現存的(de)(de)5龕(kan)(kan)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),完整者(zhe)2龕(kan)(kan),均(jun)為(wei)長生(sheng)保命(ming)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。“天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)”是(shi)道(dao)教(jiao)尊(zun)(zun)貴的(de)(de)天(tian)神之稱。其中(zhong)一尊(zun)(zun)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)高1.8米,戴蓮(lian)花冠(guan),著納托,持(chi)法(fa)器(qi)(qi)站蓮(lian)臺上(shang)肌膚豐腴,莊重面善,有(you)(you)濃厚(hou)的(de)(de)地方特(te)色(se)。雕(diao)(diao)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)家以(yi)概括而又(you)簡(jian)練的(de)(de)線條刻(ke)(ke)(ke)就(jiu)身形(xing)(xing)衣飾,形(xing)(xing)象(xiang)(xiang)逼真,以(yi)工整精巧的(de)(de)刀(dao)法(fa)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)就(jiu)頭(tou)、手(shou)、眉、眼,體現了“壽比南山”、“長生(sheng)不老(lao)”的(de)(de)意境與教(jiao)義。龕(kan)(kan)兩(liang)邊(bian)各(ge)(ge)有(you)(you)淺浮(fu)雕(diao)(diao)兩(liang)組(zu),為(wei)文臣、武(wu)士、護(hu)法(fa)神、妖(yao)魔、供養人(ren)等(deng)。不論(lun)是(shi)手(shou)持(chi)象(xiang)(xiang)笏者(zhe)、披甲戴盔者(zhe)、腰束戰(zhan)裙者(zhe)、足踏妖(yao)魔者(zhe),都各(ge)(ge)執劍、叉、索鏈、寶瓶、法(fa)器(qi)(qi),怒目睹眼,形(xing)(xing)態(tai)各(ge)(ge)異,咄(duo)(duo)咄(duo)(duo)逼人(ren)。其中(zhong)二尊(zun)(zun)是(shi)位(wei)于登豐閣(ge)內右龕(kan)(kan)的(de)(de)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。像(xiang)(xiang)高192厘米,完整無損(sun),頸脖(bo)細長,接近“立七、坐五、盤三、臥(wo)八”的(de)(de)傳統人(ren)體造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)型(xing)藝(yi)術(shu)的(de)(de)頭(tou)身比例。據石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)題記(ji)考察,它是(shi)唐(tang)武(wu)宗李炎會昌五年(公元845年)的(de)(de)藝(yi)術(shu)品。龕(kan)(kan)臺下還刻(ke)(ke)(ke)有(you)(you)雄獅、麒麟等(deng)祥瑞物(wu)。唐(tang)代道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)石(shi)(shi)窟能(neng)保留至今,為(wei)難(nan)得(de)的(de)(de)文物(wu)珍品,1986年,這里的(de)(de)道(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)被(bei)選入(ru)《中(zhong)國(guo)美(mei)(mei)(mei)術(shu)全集?四(si)川石(shi)(shi)窟雕(diao)(diao)塑(su)》卷,日本學者(zhe)亦將(jiang)這些造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)編入(ru)《世(shi)界美(mei)(mei)(mei)術(shu)全集》里,可見(jian)這些造(zao)(zao)(zao)(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)的(de)(de)文物(wu)藝(yi)術(shu)價(jia)值(zhi)之高。
此外(wai),鶴鳴山(shan)還(huan)有(you)“一(yi)郡奇觀”題(ti)刻《摩(mo)崖碑亭(ting)記(ji)》、明正(zheng)德十(shi)四的(de)刻的(de)《劍州再建重(zhong)(zhong)陽亭(ting)記(ji)》、正(zheng)德卯寅摩(mo)刻的(de)《重(zhong)(zhong)陽亭(ting)詩有(you)跋》、清同治(zhi)十(shi)年(nian)鐫(juan)刻的(de)《重(zhong)(zhong)修摩(mo)崖亭(ting)碑記(ji)》、光(guang)緒二十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)鐫(juan)刻的(de)《重(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)陽亭(ting)碑》等(deng)石(shi)刻。這(zhe)些石(shi)刻藝術珍品是(shi)古代勞動人(ren)民智慧的(de)結晶。1962年(nian)在鶴鳴山(shan)墾荒造林出土的(de)宋代道教祭祀用(yong)品有(you)銅壺、銅瓶、銅醮斗等(deng);還(huan)有(you)宋代龍泉窟產的(de)精品“蓮瓣紋豆青瓷(ci)碗”,經(jing)專家鑒定為(wei)國家一(yi)級(ji)文物。
張陵創(chuang)立(li)五斗米道(dao)
張陵(34—156),中國東漢五斗米道創立者。后改名張道陵,字輔漢,敬為張天師。沛國豐邑(今江蘇豐縣)人。少時(shi)(shi)喜讀河洛圖諱、天(tian)文(wen)地理之(zhi)書。曾入(ru)太學,通達(da)五(wu)經(jing)(jing)(jing),又好(hao)黃老(lao)(lao)之(zhi)學,舉(ju)薦“賢良方正(zheng)直言極諫科”。漢明帝(di)(di)時(shi)(shi)曾任巴郡江州(今(jin)四川重慶)令,后隱(yin)居北邙山(shan)(今(jin)河南洛陽(yang)北),修(xiu)煉長(chang)生之(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。朝(chao)廷久征不(bu)就。東漢順(shun)帝(di)(di)時(shi)(shi),修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)于(yu)鵠鳴山(shan)(今(jin)四川大邑(yi)縣境內(nei)),創立(li)五(wu)斗米道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。教(jiao)門(men)中(zhong)尊老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)主(zhu),以(yi)《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)五(wu)千言》為(wei)(wei)(wei)經(jing)(jing)(jing)典,自稱太上(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,授(shou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“三天(tian)法師(shi)正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)真人”。制作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書24篇,建立(li)24治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)區,各治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)立(li)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)官祭酒,以(yi)統治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)。道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)有犯小過(guo)者以(yi)悔過(guo)自新(xin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)奉(feng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)之(zhi)主(zhu)旨,并用(yong)符水咒法為(wei)(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)病。傳有弟(di)(di)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)王(wang)長(chang)、趙升(sheng)等。子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)孫世襲(xi)天(tian)師(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)號(hao),歷代帝(di)(di)君皆加有封號(hao)。東漢順(shun)帝(di)(di)(126—144年)時(shi)(shi),張陵聞蜀(shu)地多名山(shan),民(min)風淳(chun)厚,易于(yu)教(jiao)化,于(yu)是攜弟(di)(di)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)入(ru)蜀(shu),居住在鶴鳴山(shan)(又名鵠山(shan))修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。精思煉志數年,著作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書二(er)十四篇。感太上(shang)親降,授(shou)以(yi)《三天(tian)正(zheng)法》、《正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)科術要道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)法》、《正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)盟(meng)威妙經(jing)(jing)(jing)》、《三業六通之(zhi)訣》,命為(wei)(wei)(wei)天(tian)師(shi)。于(yu)是,張陵以(yi)鶴鳴山(shan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)中(zhong)心(xin)設二(er)十四治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),是正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)盟(meng)威道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的(de)基層組(zu)織與活動中(zhong)心(xin)。初設二(er)十四治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),主(zhu)要集中(zhong)在蜀(shu)漢地區,后為(wei)(wei)(wei)與二(er)十八(ba)宿(su)相配,乃增至二(er)十八(ba)治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),其(qi)中(zhong)陽(yang)平治(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)是正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)盟(meng)威道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的(de)總部(bu)。傳太上(shang)正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)盟(meng)威之(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao),奉(feng)老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)祖,尊稱太上(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,以(yi)《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)五(wu)千文(wen)》為(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)要經(jing)(jing)(jing)典,創立(li)了道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)。
張(zhang)陵初創的(de)正一盟威道(dao)(dao),其(qi)主(zhu)要(yao)經典有《老子(zi)五千文》、《太(tai)平洞極經》等。其(qi)主(zhu)要(yao)宗教活動(dong)是(shi):誦(song)習(xi)五千文;有罪(zui)首過;符水治(zhi)病(bing);用章表與(yu)鬼神(shen)為誓(shi)約。其(qi)組(zu)織制度(du)主(zhu)要(yao)是(shi):各治(zhi)置祭(ji)酒,以領道(dao)(dao)民。并規定按(an)時“付天倉”及“三會(hui)(hui)”。付天倉,即奉道(dao)(dao)者于十(shi)月(yue)一日(ri)向天師(shi)、祭(ji)酒交納信米五斗(dou);三會(hui)(hui),即奉道(dao)(dao)者一年(nian)三次(正月(yue)七(qi)日(ri)、七(qi)月(yue)七(qi)日(ri)、十(shi)月(yue)五日(ri))朝會(hui)(hui)天師(shi)治(zhi)。